Hatch pull down nightmare.
#1
Hatch pull down nightmare.
So, the PO really screwed up the hatch wiring. And I am confused beyond reason. I have an '89 Camaro, and these wires don't make sense. And the wiring diagrams are doing no help for me at this point. Would someone please make a picture walk through of going through each wire and where it goes and what it connects too? It would be greatly appreciated.
#2
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Car: Base 91 'bird
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Re: Hatch pull down nightmare.
I don't know how to make/upload a diagram but I drew one when I was figuring out how it worked. Mine is '91 so not sure if yours is the same or the earlier one. If no-one can post a diagram and easy explanation I could scan my diagram and send it to you if you want.
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Re: Hatch pull down nightmare.
There were two styles of hatch pull-down unit for 1991. The early version has a metal frame (where it attaches to the car body) and weighs abiout 7 lbs. The late 91-92 version has a tan colored molded plastic frame (where it attaches to the car body).
For the early 86-91 style, the entire wiring is part of what is called the striker-sensing switch.
It is pretty simple to hook up the wiring. The blue wire with either a small black connector on the end (88-91) or with a larger white connector (86-87) connects to a red/white stripe wire which is a constant 12v. The black wire with a small ring terminal connects to the body ground location just below the pull-down unit. There is a white wire with small black connector that was used only for 89-early 91 models. For those years only it connects to a black with orange stripe wire to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the rear compartment hatch light. The 86-88 models used a manual switch to turn on and off the hatch light. There is a relay that plugs into the relay socket. If you are concerned if the relay is working properly just unplug it and see if the pull-down unit works properly. It whould function without the relay being plugged in.
In a nutshell, that is it as far as wiring the hatch pull-down unit. There is an optional hatch release solenoid. If need help with that let me know.
Here is a link to what the striker-sensing switch and the wiring looks like.
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/hat...h-pull-down-un
Lon Salgren
For the early 86-91 style, the entire wiring is part of what is called the striker-sensing switch.
It is pretty simple to hook up the wiring. The blue wire with either a small black connector on the end (88-91) or with a larger white connector (86-87) connects to a red/white stripe wire which is a constant 12v. The black wire with a small ring terminal connects to the body ground location just below the pull-down unit. There is a white wire with small black connector that was used only for 89-early 91 models. For those years only it connects to a black with orange stripe wire to provide a switched ground to turn on and off the rear compartment hatch light. The 86-88 models used a manual switch to turn on and off the hatch light. There is a relay that plugs into the relay socket. If you are concerned if the relay is working properly just unplug it and see if the pull-down unit works properly. It whould function without the relay being plugged in.
In a nutshell, that is it as far as wiring the hatch pull-down unit. There is an optional hatch release solenoid. If need help with that let me know.
Here is a link to what the striker-sensing switch and the wiring looks like.
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/hat...h-pull-down-un
Lon Salgren
Last edited by lonsal; 05-13-2014 at 12:37 AM.
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Car: 89 rs, 86 Trans Am
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Re: Hatch pull down nightmare.
If you have access to a welder, just spot weld the two parts together. It will revert it back to the earlier style that GM used before they lost their minds and made it overly complicated. It's easy to adjust it out the right height so the hatch closes completely and securely
One of GM's dumbest designs ever
One of GM's dumbest designs ever
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