Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
I have a 1991 Firebird with the original stock engine with no modifications. Every winter the car sits about 2-3 months w/out being started and come spring the battery is dead. I take it to the parts store and every time it's bad so I have to get a replacement. Thankfully it's usually still under warranty so that's good but this is really getting annoying. It's an Extreme Climate battery so it's meant to handle rough weather even though it's not really that bad here in Missouri compared to other areas of the country. This past winter I unhooked the battery from the car completely but left it in the car and still it was dead today when I went outside to hook it up. The guy at the parts store recommended that I buy a battery maintainer and hook the battery up to that during the winter months. Does anyone else have any suggestions or ideas on why this happens every year for no apparent reason or what to do so this doesn't happen again?
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 744
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From: Davison, MI
Car: 89 Camaro
Engine: Dart SHP 400-Holley Terminator EFI
Transmission: Tremec T56 Magnum F
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.55:1
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
Is your charging system operating correctly? i.e. no AC voltage (less than 3VAC) and properly charging the battery? A battery will freeze if it is not charged and while a battery will lose some voltage just sitting, it shouldn't go dead in a few months, especially when it's disconnected unless there is an outside influence affecting the charge.
A battery tender isn't a bad idea, but I think something else is wrong also.
A battery tender isn't a bad idea, but I think something else is wrong also.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,536
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
As far as I can tell the charging system is working normally. I've never had any problems with the car not starting from a dead battery except at the beginning of spring every year and the voltage gauge always reads the proper voltage. I hate to just replace the alternator on a whim so I might just have to go with the battery tender idea. If it saves me from having get a new battery next spring then it'll be worth it.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
Its funny how a battery can discharge in 2 months of winter but could sit all summer and be just fine.
The parts guy is correct, buy a maintainer and use it in the winter. I have 4 of them going in winter.
The parts guy is correct, buy a maintainer and use it in the winter. I have 4 of them going in winter.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Andover, MN
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock 9bolt posi
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
Take battery out in winter. place in basement. give her a good charge when you put it away, and again before you install in car.
Maintainers are a pain in the ***, to each their own.
Maintainers are a pain in the ***, to each their own.
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Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Tracy, CA
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
I question the parts stores ability to tell if a battery is good or bad when it's dead. Everything I've been taught about batteries is that they need to be fully charged for tests to be valid.
Anyway, definitely use a maintainer. I'd recommend one of these:
http://www.batterymart.com/p-battery...p-charger.html
I have a couple of older models that don't have temperature compensation. They came with a lug adapter (the new models don't) but you can make an adapter out of a 2-wire trailer connector and hard wire it to the battery.

This Die Hard must be close to 8 years old and sometimes sits for 3 years between starts. It has no problem starting the engine after these extended periods.
Once set up like in the photo, it's no more a pain in the **** than lifting the hood, making the connection and plugging the unit into the wall.
Anyway, definitely use a maintainer. I'd recommend one of these:
http://www.batterymart.com/p-battery...p-charger.html
I have a couple of older models that don't have temperature compensation. They came with a lug adapter (the new models don't) but you can make an adapter out of a 2-wire trailer connector and hard wire it to the battery.

This Die Hard must be close to 8 years old and sometimes sits for 3 years between starts. It has no problem starting the engine after these extended periods.
Once set up like in the photo, it's no more a pain in the **** than lifting the hood, making the connection and plugging the unit into the wall.
Last edited by paulo57509; May 21, 2014 at 01:11 AM.
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From: knoxville tn
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700-R-4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 open
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
I have a 1991 Firebird with the original stock engine with no modifications. Every winter the car sits about 2-3 months w/out being started and come spring the battery is dead. I take it to the parts store and every time it's bad so I have to get a replacement. Thankfully it's usually still under warranty so that's good but this is really getting annoying. It's an Extreme Climate battery so it's meant to handle rough weather even though it's not really that bad here in Missouri compared to other areas of the country. This past winter I unhooked the battery from the car completely but left it in the car and still it was dead today when I went outside to hook it up. The guy at the parts store recommended that I buy a battery maintainer and hook the battery up to that during the winter months. Does anyone else have any suggestions or ideas on why this happens every year for no apparent reason or what to do so this doesn't happen again?
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,536
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From: Springfield, MO, USA
Car: 1986 Trans Am, 1991 Firebird
Engine: 355 TPI, 3.1L V6
Transmission: 700R4 in both
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
I've used the exact same SuperStart Extreme Climate battery for the last 15 years. It's the only battery I ever used in my 86 Trans Am with a built 350 TPI engine and it never had any problems like this...of course it was driven year round unlike this car. It's the only battery I use in my wife's Cavalier and the only battery I've used in the 91 Firebird. It's a quality (not cheap) battery....I think I'm just letting it sit too long without starting it. I will probably get the maintainer since several people here seem to recommend them.
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 744
Likes: 5
From: Davison, MI
Car: 89 Camaro
Engine: Dart SHP 400-Holley Terminator EFI
Transmission: Tremec T56 Magnum F
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.55:1
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
A battery tender is a great idea, and would make sense if the battery just went low and required a jump at the beginning of the season. My only concern is why does the battery test bad and have to get replaced every year? Do they ever tell you any more than "it's bad?" Like bad cell, shorted cell, etc.? Something else is wrong, whether it be the test method (not charging it) or maybe something with the car.
BTW, I just noticed your in Spfld, I grew up right outside of there in Republic. The place sure has changed since the late '90's when I moved to MI.
BTW, I just noticed your in Spfld, I grew up right outside of there in Republic. The place sure has changed since the late '90's when I moved to MI.
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From: MN
Car: 85 SC, 86 Berlinetta
Engine: V6, V8
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4
Re: Replacing battery yearly - need new ideas
It should not do what you're describing. You might want to consider a different brand, or one with higher capacity. Extreme Climate could mean a lot of things but the ratings and brand can make a bigger difference. Stores will also change suppliers sometimes which can result in getting a lower quality battery than one you bought before. As a reference I have a very old battery in my Pickup that can sit at -10º to -20º for weeks or even months and still start. The other smaller Thirdgen batteries do have a more difficult time lasting when taxed as above.
Do not trust the voltage gauge on the car. Get a meter so that you can check the charging system and be aware of what's going on before you encounter problems later on. One capable of measuring amperage will be needed for some tests.
If your car puts a constant drain on the battery it will wear it out faster, so you may want to see if that's the case. Heat is another factor that can ruin any electronic component. Overcharging and/or undercharging can also ruin a battery so check the voltage while the car is running. Brighter than normal lights is an indication of overcharging. Another sign of a worn battery is when the voltage drops too much while cranking.
Once it's been compromised, the battery won't hold a charge as well as a new one. It may not show signs until it has been stored which is what I'm guessing is going on. For example if you drive it every day it may be on the edge of failing and you won't know until you let it sit. If you do replace the alternator it is a good idea to replace the battery at the same time. They have been known to cause mutual failure. Also recheck your battery and starter connections for corrosion etc. Do not buy a cheap alternator, I would look for a local shop that rebuilds them.
As mentioned make sure it's fully charged before storage and bring it in where it cannot freeze or is subjected to extreme temperatures. If you don't use a maintainer check the voltage on a regular basis (Ie. every week or so) to see how fast it is losing it's charge.
Do not trust the voltage gauge on the car. Get a meter so that you can check the charging system and be aware of what's going on before you encounter problems later on. One capable of measuring amperage will be needed for some tests.
If your car puts a constant drain on the battery it will wear it out faster, so you may want to see if that's the case. Heat is another factor that can ruin any electronic component. Overcharging and/or undercharging can also ruin a battery so check the voltage while the car is running. Brighter than normal lights is an indication of overcharging. Another sign of a worn battery is when the voltage drops too much while cranking.
Once it's been compromised, the battery won't hold a charge as well as a new one. It may not show signs until it has been stored which is what I'm guessing is going on. For example if you drive it every day it may be on the edge of failing and you won't know until you let it sit. If you do replace the alternator it is a good idea to replace the battery at the same time. They have been known to cause mutual failure. Also recheck your battery and starter connections for corrosion etc. Do not buy a cheap alternator, I would look for a local shop that rebuilds them.
As mentioned make sure it's fully charged before storage and bring it in where it cannot freeze or is subjected to extreme temperatures. If you don't use a maintainer check the voltage on a regular basis (Ie. every week or so) to see how fast it is losing it's charge.
Last edited by Scorpner; May 25, 2014 at 08:51 AM.
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