Hi!

I bought my camaro a few weeks back, drove it fine 140km and then it started...

first problem was that idle speed started running between 500-1500rpms. I rebuilt the tbi unit, swapped the iac valve and ended up dropping the tank and swap the fuel pump. I also installed new spark plugs and wires.

When all was finnished, I fired up the engine and it cranked really slow. I have a battery with condition indication on it and I noticed it was almost dead do that's why the slow cranking. I took it for a ride to check that everything was in order, I had changed all oils and filters in the car also and flushed the cooling system. When I got back home (10min testdrive) I went inside to change clothes and when I got out to the car again it wouldn't start.

when I rotated the key to ignition the temo meter shot to max and break light lamp on the dash lit. Nothing more, the starter wouldn't crank. So I figure it was the battery and swapped that to a battery from my daily driver car and same thing.

so I started reading and it seems that it's the vats system that is disabling the starter? How do I fix this? As I live on the other side of the big pot I have no help from any GM personel. I also read that the vats system could fail if changing the fuelpump, is this correct or what could be the cause of the starter not cranking?

Please help

 

Guys I really need some help here!

I've read alot and tried two things.
1. Connect pin A3 and B1 (cut the wires and wired the two coming from the ecm togeather)at the ecm that is supposed to bypass vats starter relay. Didn't work.
2. Connect purple and dark green wire at the neutral switch (unplugged them from connector and taped them togeather. Didn't work.

Any ideas? Did I do the two above correctly? Help!

 

No one reading this?

Today I bypassed the starter relay, nothing happened.

I also soldered resistors to match my keys resistance on the two cables going into the keylock. Nothing changed.

I also located the vats module, but I don't know how to bypass that.

I don't even know if this really is vats relatied anymore. The security light goes on for a sec or two when turning the ignition but then goes off. Brakelight goes on when I turn it to run and the temp gauge goes to max as long as I have it turned in run mode.

Could someone please be so kind to help me with some sort of answer?? Since I live in Finland, I can't get any GM support from a GM dealer. Please help

 

If it's a vats issue, the ecm will store a code.

Do you know how to manually pull the codes?

The information should be in the Tech articles.

Not sure if what you did, is the same as in this article:

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

To check the codes, turn the key to run, use a paperclip to jump the top two right pins no the ALDL connector.

The SES light will flash once, pause, then flash twice...pause then repeat the "1 2" two more times (3 total) That is code 12 (no ignition pulses seen-no worry, normal) after the code 12 is displayed 3 times, any other set codes will be displayed in the same fashion...i/e 3 flashes pause 3 flashes, will be code 33..and so on.

Complete this process until code 12 is being displayed again.

The thing is, you may have forced a VATs codes, by what you have done, not sure.

 

Oh man...I checked codes yesterday but none showed up. Would it give a code even if I can't get it started?

What else could be the problem? Starter solenoid? Or the starter? But wouldn't it give a noise if vats woukd give clearence to the starter?

 

If you had no codes, other than code 12, VAT's wasn't the issue...so suggest you start by putting the wiring back.

You can jump across the solenoid, but a real pain on these cars.

Edit:

You need to see if the solenoid is getting 12volts to activate when you turn the key....same with the starter enable relay.

Assuming VAT's is not the issue, then possible a faulty, or in need of adjustment-start switch.

Is this automatic, or 5 speed? there ae a few more possibilities for each.

 

Oh man, the starter...mine's hot headers also last week I changed the spark plugs and had to break two of them to even get them out. It tight over there....but I'll give it a shot tomorrow maybe.

It's an automatic -89 camaro rs with 305tbi

thanks for responding by the way

 

You're welcome.

okay, AOD.

As I recall (will look in my manual later) the start switch located down towards bottom of the column, is fed 12 volts from a fusible link.

When in park/neutral, the tranny cable coming up through the floor, activates a mechanism the the starter switch is bolted against to allow the 12 volts to be passed to the enable relay.

I'll stop there, as my memory has faded

 

Okey so now I'm in the car with the multimeter and it reads a constant 0,69v at starter enable relay at pin a and b (both yellow cables) when ignition is on and 11,6v when turning key to run.

I read about 11,1v at the shifter (purple cable) when turning to run position.

I measured the starter +bolt it had 12,6v and the trigger pin got about 10,4-10,7v when turning the key to run position.

EDIT:
I jumped the starter alone and nothing, so it's a clear case that it suddenly just died on me glad to have found the problem though!