Hi there,

my 1989 GTA has now been converted to the Holley HP EFI System, so the old ECM is gone.

Some hours ago I tried to crank the engine but nothing happened - No security light, just the handbrake-light which turned off once

Current situation:
The C207 connector is not plugged in since I think there is nothing left to be wired there any longer.

I haven't done the VATS bypass yet, since I still have the factory key which worked well in the past, at least in combination with my old '165 ecm.

Did anyone had the same issues? Maybe with converting to carb or ls1 swaps etc?

Hope someone can help me!

Thanks in advance
Alex



Edit:
Found the schematics of the vats system and edited and updated it to my current setup:

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Join the two heavy gauge wires of starter enable relay together (bypass the relay)?


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...formation.html

post#20 C207


Off the top of my head, I was thinking that the service engine light was activated through 207 pin c, but some one else can correct me, I'm not to familiar with 89'.

 

Jumper the A and E terminals together at the starter enable relay. With your setup, you will then have completely bypassed the VATS system.

 

Both wires are joined now, but unfortunately the battery drained over night so no chance to test if it worked.
Hope for tomorrow

 

Hi again.
At the moment I don't have any spark.

Have 12v on pink cable which goes to the coil, coil is grounded properly.
Wires are all new MSDs ; Distributor is about 2 years old MSD Pro Billet which ran fine last time I drove the car (2years ago). Could I have killed the ICM when I accidently connected my starter wires with reversed polarity?

 

Reverse polarity can certainly damage some sensitive electronics if they aren't internally built with protection against that. However... Can you elaborate on what was connected reverse polarity? Everything at the starter motor is a positive voltage, the starter gets its ground from being bolted to the block.


I am not yet familiar with MSD's trigger system to fire the coil, maybe someone else with some MSD knowledge can jump into this thread to help out as well?

 

Sorry, if I wasn't precise enough.
I just made that mistake directly at the starter. Put the starter field wire where the 12v from battery had to go and vice versa. That drained my battery to death. At this time everything else was connected properly.

On monday I'll get a spare distributor to check if something went bad in there. Btw I just have the MSD direct replacement for the stock distributor, so nothing special.

 

5.7
http://austinthirdgen.org/mkportal/m...ine_wiring.gif


msd list this as stock replacement (5.7)


http://www.msdperformance.com/product.aspx?id=5365

 

Hi all !

Swapped the ICM which was faulty. It was a PITA cause MSD doesn't use connectors, the wires were just soldered and shrinkwrapped onto the pins of the ICM. That was really not what I expected from MSD.

Anyway: Had a little struggle with starting the engine, some misfires, most likely it wants less spark advance at cranking, had it at ~10-11° btdc. Seems that it wants less.

 

Hey there,

I bought a new VATS Key for my 92 RS 3.1L and it worked for 36 hours. After changing a few fuses, and checking the rest I tried the ignition and VATS appears to be killing me. I've tried cleaning the key, i've tried cleaning the inside of the lock cylinder, still nothing. The ONLY thing that happens is the instrument panel lights up (No Security Light). No noise from the starter, no action in the fuel pump... HELP PLEASE!!!!!

 

VATS does not disable the fuel pump. You have another problem. You can either choose to diagnose your no crank condition or the lack of fuel pump operation, it is likely that either will lead to the cause of both.
Why were you changing fuses? What else is wrong with the car?

 

@Lurbie - The power hatch wouldn't operate, the ACC 20A Fuse was blown. Replaced it, checked others while at it. When I Re-Inserted the ECM Fuse and tried the ignition...nothing. Today I actually found that the continuous VATS issues I was having despite the New Key was the VATS wires where they connect at the Lock Cylinder. I did the ever so popular "Bypass" w/ Resistors from RadioShack and Thank GOD the engine cranked! VATS Issue solved for $1.50 and some electric tape lol. Now i'm impatiently waiting on morning for my mechanic to install my new fuel pump and replace 2 transmission lines and I should finally be on the road

 

Awesome! I'm glad you found it so quickly.