Starter relay problems when hot?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 87
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From: Sweden
Car: Camaro Iroc-Z -89
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Starter relay problems when hot?
Hello!
I wonder if any of you have had problems with the starter relay when engine is hot? Sometimes when hot my car won't crank at all and I wonder if this might be the cause (bad/hot relay). The car is an IROC '89 350 TPI (VTA still installed).
Do you know where I can get a new starter relay if I want to switch it to rule it out?
Thanks!
//Per
I wonder if any of you have had problems with the starter relay when engine is hot? Sometimes when hot my car won't crank at all and I wonder if this might be the cause (bad/hot relay). The car is an IROC '89 350 TPI (VTA still installed).
Do you know where I can get a new starter relay if I want to switch it to rule it out?
Thanks!
//Per
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,154
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From: Temecula, CA
Car: 1989 Pontiac Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BorgWarner 3.27 Posi
Re: Starter relay problems when hot?
Mine started to do this, was the starter itself. Swapped with one from AutoZone (ewu I know) and it starts up fine.
Apparently heat can affect the solenoid; some people often heat shield the starter
Apparently heat can affect the solenoid; some people often heat shield the starter
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Car: Camaro Iroc-Z -89
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Starter relay problems when hot?
Okay, thanks for the tip! I recently switched my starter for a new one but it still keeps striking sometimes. I really don't hope that the starter is done already.
Cheers,
Per
Cheers,
Per
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Sweden
Car: Camaro Iroc-Z -89
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: Automatic
Re: Starter relay problems when hot?
Hello again!
After quite some time and tinkering, parts chcnged etc. I still have problems with the car not wanting to crank sometimes. Last yesterday when it was test drived with a quite hot engine.
Switched it off and one minute later it wouldn't start - no sign of life except volt gauge needle dropping when turning the ignition key. Darn!
Tried again just one or maximum two minutes later and bam, it started! Didn't do anything in between so this tells me it shouldn't be neither the VATS system failing or gear shifter sensors, right?
Starter, alternator and battery recently switched for new ones.
Any ideas?
Thanks for helping out!
BR,
Per
After quite some time and tinkering, parts chcnged etc. I still have problems with the car not wanting to crank sometimes. Last yesterday when it was test drived with a quite hot engine.
Switched it off and one minute later it wouldn't start - no sign of life except volt gauge needle dropping when turning the ignition key. Darn!
Tried again just one or maximum two minutes later and bam, it started! Didn't do anything in between so this tells me it shouldn't be neither the VATS system failing or gear shifter sensors, right?
Starter, alternator and battery recently switched for new ones.
Any ideas?
Thanks for helping out!
BR,
Per
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,341
Likes: 10
From: Mooresville NC
Car: LOWERED ♦ CRIMSON METALFLAKE
Engine: ► 400 KUBES ◄
Transmission: 765R4
Axle/Gears: EATON POSI 4.56
Car Is Not Cranky . . . . SO I AM !!!!!!
Connect a voltmeter across the M terminal of the starter and ground.
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
The Next Time I’m In The Sand Trap, Let It Be Golf, Not My Car
Make the leads long enuff to take the voltmeter into the cockpit.
Under normal circumstances, when cranking you will see about 9 volts on the meter.
On the occasions the starter fails to crank note the voltage.
The voltage will tell you what the problem is and what direction to turn.
If it’s about 12 while you are trying to crank, but the starter is not turning - the problem is in the starter.
If it’s under 8 while trying to crank - the problem is excessive resistance in the starting circuit.
Therefore if it is in the starting circuit you can move the probe you applied to terminal M at the starter, to the positive terminals at the solenoid, then keep moving up the line till the problem shows itself VIA increased voltage.
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
Happy Racing !
◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙◙
The Next Time I’m In The Sand Trap, Let It Be Golf, Not My Car
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