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I'm trying to figure out a plan for replacing my positive battery cable, as preventative measure (and also because the terminal bolt seems to be "loose" inside the cable end at the battery).
What is involved in replacing this cable? There's the obvious disconnection at the battery's + terminal. Based on circuit diagrams I'm under the impression that I'll need to disconnect an end at the starter's solenoid. I see a couple of other connections (one to a fusible link? the other, no idea? etc.) and I'm not sure what gets disconnected and where.
The car is 100% factory original and I'd prefer a drop-in solution (ie. a perfect fit replacement cable) but I'm a bit concerned over the fusible link and other smaller wires that I can't figure out how they'd be removed. I've not had the time to trace the entire length of the + cable to see what else might be spliced in.
So i was gonna reply the other day and as soon as I got the battery cables, I went to install them. At the same time I decided to remove my engine harness to wrap it in techflex and relocate the pcm. Needless to say I have been submerged in wires all weekend.
The battery cables are very nice IMO. I went with 2/0 only because the space in our cars is kind of cramped, and 2/0 still allows you to shape it nicely. 1/0 probably does too, but my application is an LS1, so everything is basically custom and you disturb one thing, 5 others need to be corrected.
I love the cables. The stock cables are much thinner in comparison. Can't wait to drive it and see the difference
So for a completely stock 1987 Firebird, if I was to get a kit from this supplier... would I need to slice into any existing wires? I'm wondering what is the best approach to minimizing cutting up this all-original car.
I'll contact this supplier but for anyone who's done business with them: do they provide cabling without the protective covering? I'm looking for a 100% stock look (not sure how those upgraded battery terminals work either).
It comes in loom. The terminals are such that you thread a stud into the battery and secure the cable to the stud using a nut. The whole thing gets covered in a supplied rubber boot. For TPI, there is one wire that I believe is secured from a splice somewhere and runs all the way to the battery cable. It may have to be cut. A way around this to make it look stock is simply to put a terminal on one end, a terminal on the other and connect using a factory style plastic connector. Weather pack is cheap and easy to find. Just a suggestion but you should talk to Gary at innovative wiring and see what he says.
I've contacted him with a request for 1987-specific cabling. Let's see what he says. Disassembling the existing wiring is not an option for me... short of obvious failure, I won't rip out the original wiring in order to use as a template for cobbling up a replacement kit.
Interesting approach with the stud and nut thing... I wonder why the usual battery hookups weren't used.
10-14-2015, 12:04 PM
