How would the best way to go by doing this be done? I prefer to do this by doing a fuel kill switch. I currently have a 20Amp rocker switch for it which I assume would be good enough.

 

Why not just use the key? Is it mandated by some association that you need one? NHRA has good diagrams for battery cutoff.

 

That seems like a liable option. Thanks!

 

Usually large and where do you put it? My car was stolen and they took the ignition key from inside the house. If I had a kill switch, they would not have stolen it. Make it simple.

 

There are a variety of options you can take to prevent your car from driving away. You can hide a small switch almost anywhere that would control a relay which in turn would control power to the ecm or injectors or ignition coil or fuel pump.

 

This harness has wiring for a kill switch,.... ( red circle )




The Purple wire to the starter solenoid was cut and a terminal was added to each end. Both ends then get wired to a very simply ON/OFF toggle switch and the switch can be installed anywhere you wish. The car can not not start if there's no power on the Purple solenoid wire......

 

What is the purpose/reason for wanting this?

 

Thanks! That was primarily what I was looking for because doing a battery killswitch that I am aware of would clear the ECM memory as it does if you were to disconnect the negative terminal for a minute.

The reason of wanting a switch is, to add an additional level of security possibly to keep my car from being stolen. A relatives member was stolen overnight before when he had a car with alot of aftermarket performance parts then the local police department found his car a few blocks away stripped left on some spare wheels and with just about everything gone overnight. I would like to prevent this from happening even if it's a small amount of decreasing the possibility.

 

I'm writing code for $8d that will be a killswitch for fuel injectors. No switch for someone to find. It's done with a certain set of inputs under certain conditions. Should be easily added to any ecu after I'm done.

And it's free if you can throw a prom in.

 

Thanks, but for now I prefer to stick to a switch for now.

 

Just a Chilton's Manual for your car will help.
Here's some wiring diagrams for our cars. Just scroll down and pick your car. Once you find the diagram just click on it to open it in a larger size. These are things that you should know before you start cutting into your harness and putting in kill switches. = http://www.austinthirdgen.org/?pid=19

Then look for a relay that will work for you and place the kill switch on the low amperage ignition source wire ether on the power supply wire going into the relay or on the ground wire coming out of the relay. It done this way so there is now a very small amount of amperage going through the kill switch.
The numbers on the bottom of the relay are there to show where the wires go and the colors of the wire in the diagram are there to help locate them.


A basic kill switch with relay looks like this.

 

If all he wants is a "don't steal my car switch" then you guys are making this waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy complicated.


The OP's car is a manual.


inkscape - look in your floorboard behind/near the top of the clutch pedal and you'll see a switch. Trace that wiring and cut it in literally any location you wish and wire a toggle switch between the cuts. If you don't want the switch up under the dash then just extend the wiring and put it. . .anywhere.


Now the car can't be stolen.


If what you're looking for is a fuel kill switch then (in a similar fashion) trace the wiring for your fuel pump, splice in wiring for a switch, run the wiring to wherever you want to mount the switch, and boom. done.

 

Quick question, what switch?

 

inkscape - The switch I'm referring to is the clutch safety switch, it's a pressure-type switch (think like a button) that gets engaged when the clutch is pressed in. It's a safety feature put on manual cars to prevent them from being started while in gear.


Of course I can't find a decent picture to show you exactly what it looks like, but if your car came from the factory with the T-5 then it's there. Just look towards the top of the clutch pedal arm.

 

Ahh. Now I know what you are speaking of. I'll go digging looking for it later today. Should I wire the switch with an inline fuse or would it be just fine directly wired to my switch?

 

Good idea!

 

It should be fine directly wired, but if you want to put an inline fuse there's no harm in it.

 

So which wire is positive and negative? The 2 wires in it are a low gauge wire. One is purple, the other is green.

 

No positive and negative. Both would be positive as the switch breaks the contact.

Same with your kill switch. No positive and negative to it. Just the one wire with a switch inline.

Rather than thinking of it as positive and negative. Think of it as in and out. 12 volt into the switch, 12 volt out of the switch, and the switch makes or breaks the contact.

 

Alright. So I have a toggle switch. 12v Supply, Acc, Ground. I can just cut and wire one of them to "Acc" and supply the 12v to the switch from whatever wire currently running 12v & Ground to a ground?

I'm a beginner with these switches. lol.

Also, the wires are about a what, 12-14 gauge... Should I use wires about the same gauge or are high-gauge speaker wires good enough and safe?

 

Kind of funny, Your putting a kill switch on your factory kill switch !!! Just be sure that you hide it real good !! You don't need ACC power or ground unless the switch has it's own light.

Don't fuse this connection,... it's carries a very considerable load to the solenoid, hence the heavy gauge wire. Use ONLY wire that's at least = to the wires @ the clutch switch if to prevent potential fires.

 

Well, that "killswitch" is **** for a "dont steal my baby" switch xD.
Anyhow, it does have it's own light. Not really necessary for the light to work on it as they may possibly make it easier to be found... lol.

Aside of that, can someone make a little doddle on how the wiring should go? xD

 

I'm not much at art,..... But I'd call this a perfect rendition of a kill switch wired:

" / " = Switch

POWER IN > ------------------------- / -------------------- > POWER OUT

 

So how is the wiring diagram going to go for this?
Cut 1 wire (i'm just going to use the purple wire since it is already exposed), Connect one end to "Acc" on the switch and connect the other end of the cut wire to what? One on "Acc" and the other on the "12v" pin?

 

Run 1 end of the wire to the "IN" terminal

Run the other end of the wire to the "OUT" terminal

If you want the light to work, hook up the GROUND terminal to GROUND.

 

So basically 12v term is "In", Acc is "Out" and well, we know what ground is. Correct?

 

.

EDIT:Was already said when I posted.

 

Cut the purple wire before it goes to the clutch switch. Now you have 2 ends on purple wire. Add 14 or 12 gauge wire to both ends, add enough to reach where ever you want your kill switch placed.

Hook one of those extended wires to the 12V spot on kill switch and hook the other extended wire to the acc. spot on kill switch.

All a switch does is make or break the connection of the circuit...
Think of it like this... You have two wires with stipped ends so its bare. You touch the wires together and it connects the circuit, That would be the on function of switch.. You take the two stripped ends apart and you just broke the connection.. That is your off function of switch.

Inside a switch you have the wire post on each end sticking up inside the switch, a copper bar inside the switch, when you flip the switch on it moves this copper bar so it can touch each of the wire post. This completes the circuit, flip switch off and the copper bar inside it no longer touches both wire posts. This breaks the circuit

 

Thank you very much for that detailed info. I will get to work on it as soon as I pick up some 12-14g wire.

 

So I wired the switch and it works as I wanted to.. I chose to use 10gauge wire instead of 12 or 14. I was hoping to get the led in the switch to work as well, but its not on. I may have the wires connected in the wrong orientation. Pushing the switch to the ground side disables the killswitch allowing the car to turn on.

 

I wouldnt think you would want the led to work because anyone who wanted to steal your car would be aware of the switch with the light.

 

Indeed. I discovered the led turns on for a quick moment as the car starts then turns off. I may just eventually swap the switch for one that isnt an led and use the current one for a dome light switch as it never turns off.

 

Yeah it would be best to get a good metal stem, metal body toggle switch with 2 wire post.
I have seen many of those cheap plastic rocker and toggle switches break with repeated use and that's the last thing you want with a kill switch.

 

Glad it worked out for ya, a switch like that is one of my favorite little tricks to put on cars.