I have an 82 street/strip car (car is still street legal), I just ordered a battery box relocation kit and plan on putting battery in back of car and I plan on installing a kill switch on the rear of the car. My question is the switch that is mounted in the tail light in pics that I have seen- is the switch longer than a standard switch- are guys mounting it clear thru light assm or clear thru into the rear part of car? Also are you guys running the power wire under car or under carpet on the inside of the car? Any info would be appreciated. thanxs.

 

can anyone explain or have pics of how to mount the switch in car, are you guys mounting it into the metal of car and adding an extension for **** or are you just mounting it into the bezel and using the added metal plate for strength ? 1982 Camaro please help

 

There is another thread that has been started on the subject.
= https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ch-wiring.html

 

thanks so much for your response, although I was looking for info or a picture of the actual mounting of the switch (I had reviewed that thread previously and thought it would generate some different info). I found another post on battery relocation and from there I figured it out. I drilled a hole in lic.plate bezel and reinforced with a piece of metal from the inside then cut the taillight mount out 4 some for clearance. I drilled the 2 power wires holes below that so the leads go straight down from the switch, it seems to work so far. I worked on it all morning, now im trying to figure out which alt wire to run straight to the battery to create a complete shutdown if switch is thrown (mine has two one in plastic connector with a very small wire, and one with an eylet). they both have power without engine running??? I think alt needs power to make power but im not sure-- still lo0king.

 

I did a little more research and what I eneded up doing was to run a 2ga wire from alt (the eyelet side--- not the plastic plug one) straight to the battery, I did fuse it with a 100 amp fuse (30 amp was not enough for the draw my car has), and it works fine.. don,t know if it is nhra approved but its not required in the street legal class anyway. it kills the engine and whole car at once (other than the powered 2ga wire from battery to back of alt). I mounted a metal piece on the inside of bezel and screwed it from the outside with stainless screw. For those of u who don't want to see the switch on the back of car you could remove the lever and paint everything else black ( then the only nonstock look would be about the size of a quarter on the back of your car) i'll probably do that too ya know, so someone at a stoplight won't see it quite as easy. I also figured out the 2-O cable I ran for battery cable pulls more than 100 amp during start/crank, im using a 275amp fuse for that one now and it works fine.