As the title says, "How did you conceal your under-hood amplifier power wiring"?

I'm particularly interested in clean, simple, easy (if possible) ways to connect a 10g wire to the positive terminal of the side-post battery, as inconspicuously as possible.

All tips and ideas are welcome.

 

Originally I had it inside the pass fender, behind the plastic splash guard thing.Along w/ the alarm & couple other wires.Then to a hole on the door jamb, into the interior.Now I have a junction block by the hvac box.So only one wire from there to the battery, same routing.

 

Do you still have a side post battery? How did you tap into it?

 

Yes, I use those gold battery terminals for sound systems.They have a stud on the end

 

Would it be possible to run a wire with an eyelet terminal to the starter/solenoid for power? This is just a short trip down a heavy gage wire from the battery, and pretty much out of view. Thus I would have NO connection at the highly visible battery location.

 

No reason it couldn't be done.

 

Thanks 84 1LE.

Anyone else?

 

Just a reminder, you will want a fuse within one foot of the "battery", in this case the starter. Not sure what gauge goes to the starter, make sure it is equal to or greater than the amp wire, otherwise it might get hot or melt. If there is one of those black burnout fuses between the battery and starter, you might wanna upgrade to a straight wire to the starter. Other than those concerns, I don't see why not. You're going to loose some power each time you make more connections in the wiring, but lower wattage amps probably won't notice it.

 

Good thoughts fokeyman.

Good thought on the fuse! I'll make sure that's part of the harness I build. I'd like to seal in a fusible link, if I can find one of the proper rating. Easier to weatherproof.

The amp is small (300W RMS), and runs off a 10g wire, so I'm thinking I'll be OK there. I think that starter wire is 4g.

As for power loss, if the eyelet is stacked between the nut and battery cable eyelet (not between the battery cable eyelet and motor), it should not present a measurable increase in resistance (I would not think). Also, as the amp will only be triggered on with the key in RUN, and not in START, there should not be any additional current drain that would take away from available cranking amps.

Still, there may be better options. Willing to hear about all of them.

 

Got another idea...

place the eyelet ring to the battery then connect the battery cable. Conceal the two cables in a wire loom covering and then branch away and go into cabin around the heater box vacuum lines keeping your new amp wire in the loom covering the whole time??

 

It's a thought Bob. Would be pretty easy to hide. I'm not looking to pass the OEM white glove test at shows, but if I can keep it stock-ish looking, I'd like to.

I wondered if there was a B+ cable that might have an extra wire, like this one....

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....1251469&jsn=18

...but this one, though labeled as B+, is black in color. And I "think" my OE piece is red, not black like this one. But you get the idea. Then I could use that extra "lead" to power the amp....assuming it's at least 10g.

 

I thought that same thing about 5 mins ago! But yeah, if the wire is big enough.
See this site, they have duel red.
http://custombatterycables.com/appli...ler_cables.htm

 

My car came with a battery junction block for tapping into high amp power.

I would think other cars would have something similar instead of trying to tap directly into a battery post/wire/etc.

Mine looks like this.
With the large black and red wire attached to it.

Its where axzilary fans/etc. get there power.

 

There are, mine are from a v6 4th gen.Both w/ an aux wire, two on the pos cable.Much thicker too.

My junc block, from a late 90s s10.

 

Good stuff guys. Thanks for all the ideas!

 

I'm going to be putting my battery in the trunk and will have to run a power wire (0 gauge) up to the starter and alternator. I am planning on just putting it in the passenger side frame rail in the engine bay and having it exit through a hole I'll drill in the cabin's floor board. There is a bracket that bolts to and covers up a decent sized hole on the inside of the frame rail on the passenger side towards the front. You can buy a large grommet or protect the portion of the wire where it goes through the frame rail. The bracket I'm talking about is what the idler arm bolts to.

 

I just finished all the work I'm going to do with the rear speakers. Next stop is installing this amplifier. So I'll be out there under the hood after work tomorrow to see what I can figure out.

 

You can always cover the wire in nylon flex loom to conceal it and make it look like a stock wire.

 

That's just what I am doing...some convoluted tube in black with proper hangers to suspend it, routed to be as out of site as possible.

As with EVERYTHING else in this project, there was serious mission creep. Getting to the power stud led to removing the battery, cleaning that whole area, and touching up some (yikes!) surface rust in the battery tray. No good deed goes unpunished. Been out sick for a while, but will be back on this project soon, and will post updates in my project thread.