...getting ready to move the battery to the trunk, and I have a few questions.

First, I have no intentions of racing and needing to meet NHRA rules. My understanding is that from the factory, disconnecting the battery will not stop the car, due to alternator. Never actually tested this myself. ...so if it was good enough for factory, it's good enough for me, at least in this case. Is that sound logic, or is it somehow MORE dangerous with the trunk in back???

Second, yes, I'm going to do some cosmetic wiring upgrades. - but essentially, if I were to draw a diagram, all I'm doing is running a POS+ cable to a stud, and effectively not really RE-wiring anything, right? All POS battery connections are now just POS stud connections...larger gauge cable of course.

...and finally, do I need to also run a ground cable from the back, all the way up front to the block? I know shorter runs the better, but a few places have suggested running one up front to the block anyhow. Thoughts??

Thanks in advance.

 

Just ground battery to the body and the motor to chassis up front.

 

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I've got a relocation coming in my future, would ideally like to put it on the driver's side well area behind the rear tire. Do you need dry cell or just a sealed battery when it's in the passenger compartment? Any suggestions on fabbing & mounting the tray & tie down?

 

there is a way to wire it so that the cut-off switch shuts the engine down. i didnt care about being NHRA legal when i moved mine to the back. i bought a plastic battery box, used a battery hold down kit, and drilled a hole to vent gases and ran a hose through it. i welded a stainless bolt to the "frame" for the ground. ran the positive cable basically to up front where the battery was and joined the wires. i did mount a battery cut-off switch in the console. maye theft deterent? but it will keep running off the alternator.

oh, and i bought some fine strand heavy gauge wire from the welding shop. IIRC it was cheaper than buying a kit?