Or a diagram. its a 1984 5.0 Trans Am 4bbl

Checked mine tonight while looking into my choke problem and all the lettering has gone, and it also looks like i have a fuse missing.

 

 

That doesn't seem to match my fuse box at all :/

 

Each Fuse Box Is Different, Some Have More Fuses In The Block Some Less Depends On What Accessories /Options The Car Has,I Have A 5.0 Liter 4-BBL And It Looks Different Than Yours. I Have A Pic If I Can Find It.

 

I believe the fuse blocks are pretty much laid out the same, year to year. The silk screen labels may differ slightly, i.e., "ECM IGN" may be labeled "ENG CNL", etc.

With the exception of the middle 30amp fuse in the bottom row, the posted photo of the fuse block looks like the posted diagram, just the fuse breakthrough currents differ (I suspect some incorrect fuses are installed in the photo fuse block).

 

Well if anyone with 84 can take a pic of theirs that would be much appreciated. It looks like I've got wrong amp fuses all over the place too ?

So the missing one appears to be for the radio

 

84z, originally 5.0, auto, full power.Ignore the ones with tape.Ive added circuits over the years & used those empty (at the time) terminals.

 

Top right, C/H fan. Is that for the choke heater??? Mines only got a 7.5 amp fuse there.

I've got weird problems going on with the power delivery to my choke heater. It says to check the FP fan fuse but because of my chap fuse panel it's proving difficult

 

I believe so, but that shouldnt be the issue.A lower rated fuse will still provide current, just blow sooner.I think its also tied to the coolant fan, so a 20 amp fuse should be used.I think the relay is the place to look.Heres what the service manual has.

 

It was the fuse. It looked ok but on closer inspection it had let go but the break was really close. Put a 20amp in and the choke works fine now and the light goes off on the dash too.

It still needs set up properly though. I think I need to drill the rivets out and turn it so it's always slightly open when cold as the car doesn't want to start if the choke flap is fully closed

 

Choke should close completely when cold/eng off.Vacuum should pull it open slightly when started cold.There is this from my service manual.

 

It worked perfectly yesterday. Flap was completely closed and the car fired straight away on the key, choke pull off opened immediately. I let it run for a bit then tried to start it again a few hours later and it just kept cranking. I manually opened the choke flap and it eventually sputtered into life.