ndndndnd

Hello,

Further to my ongoing saga in this thread:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...nt-sensor.html

I'm now investigating using ALDLdroid and ALDL Scan to interrogate the ECM and work out quite what's going on.

I've got a bluetooth dongle, I've got an OBD1 to OBD2 converter cable and I've got ALDL Scan on my phone. What I don't have is power to the ALDL to run the dongle. Most use Pin G (lower left hand corner) to power the dongle, but as my car is carb'd (E4ME) I don't have that. I only have the four pins on the top right.

I'm going to run 12V to pin G to power the dongle.

Firstly, does anyone know what the type of terminal connectors in the ALDL are called? Are they the same as OBDII terminals? I only need one...

Secondly, I'm assuming I can get 12V power from the fusebox, but looking at the diagram it's not that clear from where. Will there be 12V to any unused fuse terminal?

Thirdly... do I really need 12V??!

Thanks for any help or guidance!

ND

Drew

iTrader: (58)

When you look at the face of the fuse block, there will be a couple open sockets along the right and bottom for expansion. There will be spots for radio, ignition, gauges. Should be able to find a signal that will work for you.

I want to say the ALDL terminals are Metri-pack, the series will be the width of the male terminals in Metric. Measure a terminal and go from there.

W.E.G.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F121160443036

Wonder if these ECM harnesspin-outs work also for ALDL connectors?

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The ECM terminals would be micro-pack. The ALDL pins are quite a bit larger.

ndndndnd

What about these little guys? These are listed as 'obd series':

http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivit...97?st=776001-1

I'll have to find somewhere that lets me buy fewer than 20000 though!

And I assume I can get power off the fuse box using something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10a-amp-B...cAAOSwnlFaY1nt

...or is there a more elegant way?

Thanks guys, this place really is so awesome.

ND

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I dont think either of those pins are correct, though I can't open the second link. The OBDI connector uses Metri-Pack 280 unsealed connectors. Though I can't find whether they are tanged or tangless terminals needed

This one should work for you

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...SlLDtpLJyTU%3d

You could also order from EFI Connection. This is the connector and at the bottom shows the terminals available for it. I don't know what size wire you want to use, so I just picked one

**EDIT**
This is the list of part numbers for Tanged female terminals
Part # Cable Range (mm2) Material Plating
12015858 5.0 Tin Brass Tin
12129494 3.0-2.0 Tin Brass Tin
12066214 2.0-1.0 Tin Brass Tin
12034046 1.0-0.80 Tin Brass Tin
12052217 0.50-0.35 Tin Brass Tin

Tangless Female terminals
Part # Cable Range (mm2) Material Plating
12129425 5.0 Tin Brass Tin
12129663 3.0 Tin Brass Tin
12129424 2.0-1.0 Tin Brass Tin

ndndndnd

That's terrific - thanks so much for that information!

I'm struggling to find those part numbers reasonably available in the UK, however I can find these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Genu...oAAOSwKEtZ5JGg

These are listed as Metri Pack 280 connectors, but have part number 12077411. Schematics on mouser.co.uk make them look identical. Is there something I'm missing or can I grab these?

Many thanks everyone!

ND

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Most of the dash plugs are going to be unsealed. Sealed connectors are for under the hood, or places where the connector can get wet.

ndndndnd

Yes, but I'm assuming the 'sealed' component is just the plastic collar, which I'd leave off, unless I've missed something?

I was more wondering what the difference was between the 12129061 that Scooter suggested and the 1207741, which I can actually get hold of. Maybe I'm over thinking this, ultimately a bit of wire will get crimped to one end and and a pin shoved in the other, and all the connectors do roughly the same thing!

scooter

iTrader: (11)

I posted the difference, but maybe you overlooked it. The difference is "tanged" or "tangless" terminals. The OBDI connector is a Metri-Pack 280, but since I can't find the actual connector, I can't figure out whether it needs a tanged or tangless terminal, but I posted all the part numbers for tanged or tangless in all the sizes. Again, I don't know what size wire you're going to use so I pasted all the requisite sizes for that series.

If you just buy a few of each from mouser.co.uk in the wire size you need you'll be spending less than those ebay auctions overall, and it is one or the other, you'll know when you pull a pin out.

Here is the Tanged for 18-20 gauge
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...5p4uRyVehN%2fa

Here is the tangless for 16 gauge
https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDeta...ReBNn7qTYcY%3d

ndndndnd

Ah, I see where I was going wrong - I hadn't spotted the bulk purchase where you can buy only a handful, rather than a thousand!

Unfortunately, although you can purchase only a couple, the delivery cost to the UK stings a bit. They want £12 to deliver £2 of connectors!

I'll just grab those eBay ones for a fiver.

I'll let you know how I get on!

Cheers,

ND

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The problem with not matching the exact terminal to the exact connector body (shell) is that they probably won't fit. The ALDL uses a secondary locking comb to retain the terminals to keep them from sliding out the back, or getting out of place. The proper terminals will snap into the shell correctly, and the comb will line up with them correctly to lock them in place.

I understand that you aren't in the US where you can snag US domestic auto parts at every corner junkyard, but I would tend to think it shouldn't be impossible to find any GM car built before OBD II and after the ALDL came to be. I'd be kind of surprised if GM didn't have a subsidiary over there using the same connectors. Lotus and Jeep come to mind as non-GM products that commonly used GM parts, I'm sure there are others that are skipping my mind at the moment.

Edit: Opel, Vauxhall, Saab, might be viable options.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/GM-OBD-1-DL...oAAOSw4GVYJ9g-

Not sure if they have older Holden’s where your at but they might have the same obd 1 connector.

ndndndnd

Huzzah!

It worked! Well, sort of...

It turns out I needed 280 metri-packs without tangs, as the existing OBD connectors are tangless and are held in place with a sort of retainer. No matter, a bit of brute force wedged the one I had bought in place (probably having the tang helped, and tangless ones would have just fallen out). Wired it up to the Wipers fuse using the fuse tap thingy and - hey presto - power to the bluetooth scanner!

Unfortunately, I've got no data connection on ALDL scan or on ALDLdroid. I might have connection using 'ALDL reader' another free android app. ALDL reader is the only app that asks for a pin code and makes the yellow light on the scanner flash, however I'm not convinced it supports the E4ME as no data shows up on the graphs. I also can't find support for the E4ME on ALDLdroid, and the corresponding .adx file doesn't seem to be available to download online, either at TunerPro or PCMhacking. ALDL Scan, however, does support the E4ME... but doesn't seem to connect to my bluetooth scanner.

Eeesh, so close and yet so far!

Has anyone any ideas? I might message the ALDL Scan guy and see if he has any ideas. I'm fairly sure the diagnostic port is operative: no ECM trouble codes are thrown and I can jump pins A and B and get codes flash through the CEL.

Still, on the plus side I did take a mate out in it at the weekend - he'd never been in anything quite like it before!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You might be limited to winaldl.
http://www.winaldl.joby.se

ndndndnd

Ok, here's the bit were I put my hand up and confess to my naivety.

I should have pointed out that the bluetooth dongle I was using is an ELM327 cheesey chinesey OBDII dongle, that I naively thought would connect to my phone using an OBDI-OBDII converter cable.

I contacted John Wales of ALDL scan and he confirmed there was no way that the ELM327 would be able to communicate with ALDL scan.

I've since been researching building my own ALDL cable, but as my laptop isn't old enough to have a serial port I can't really do it. There's no way my limited knowledge is enough to make a similar connection via USB, and although the componentry appears to be out there, I have no idea how to make my own bluetooth transmitter (HC-05 anyone?).

Purchasing one of Redevilriver or 1320 electronics bluetooth versions is rather painfully expensive in the UK, with shipping and taxes effectively doubling the cost...

Back to square one. Hopefully the above information will be useful to someone, sometime though!

Cheers everyone,

N

Drew

iTrader: (58)

You can use a USB RS232 cable like - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...698XZ6xA%3D%3D and a obdI connector or just pop pins on the wires and connect them accordingly... That'd let you use usb without a serial port. BT is probably not much more complicated, but I haven't looked into it.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

This is somewhat ironic - trying to use modern electronics to read antique ECMs.
It's kinda like an archeological dig or trying to read hieroglyphics on cave walls.
Or maybe that Star Trek movie where VoyaGer couldn't communicate with the "Creator".

ndndndnd

Hmm, that is interesting! There are also devices like this available:

http://www.usconverters.com/serial-bluetooth-adapter

but would wiring it like this:

http://winaldl.joby.se/aldlcable.htm

and connecting it to that be able to communicate with ALDL Scan or ALDL droid?

My burgeoning knowledge of electronics isn't quite up to this!

ndndndnd

Hahaha, I remember that episode!