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Long story short, I have no turn signals... One day I happened to notice that the left-hand turn lamp wasn't flashing in the dash although the multi-function switch make a audible click when pushed downward. Today, I happened to notice the right-hand turn indicator was now also not flashing in the dash, and again this was although the multi-function switch make a audible click when pushed upward.
*The rear turn lamps light up, but neither flash UNLESS I continuously push up/down on the multi-function switch like its a toggle switch.
* I have an aftermarket security system and when the door is opened ONLY the driver side front parking lamp flashes.
I've found this thing in the GM service manual called a Turn Signal Flasher, but it doesn't describe diagnosis or troubleshooting. Anyone think this is the culprit?
Ok, I'm going to ignore the alarm since that is a wildcard. If you turn either of the signals on and they light but don't flash, make sure there are no bulbs out. The flasher needs a certain amperage draw to flash and a burned out bulb(s) lowers the draw and the rest will not flash. Could be worse but that's a good and easy place to start.
Note that there are 2 flashers in most cars of this age; one works the hazards, the other the TS. If memory serves the hazard one is on the fusebox, the TS one is between the steering column and the ALDL connector, kind of above the driver's knee. It'll be a silver can about an inch and a half dia by about the same height. They don't often go bad but they definitely can.
First make sure all your bulbs are good. Don't mess around with "test" or "inspect"; just REPLACE em all. Front, rear, side markers. Inspect the sockets CLOSELY to make sure nothing is wrong with those, which would usually be corrosion. Clean them out with spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner so you can see the contacts well (careful not to get that on your paint). Make sure you get the bulbs in the sockets RIGHT: pay close attention to the little pins that orient them, observing that they are 2 different distances from the base, and ensure that they are correctly turned and fully seated. Use some of that light bulb grease on the base of them to keep the contacts from getting moisture on them. Change out any of the sockets, with their pigtails, if they're fornicated, as some usually are in a car this old.
Ok, I'm going to ignore the alarm since that is a wildcard. If you turn either of the signals on and they light but don't flash, make sure there are no bulbs out. The flasher needs a certain amperage draw to flash and a burned out bulb(s) lowers the draw and the rest will not flash. Could be worse but that's a good and easy place to start.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Yup.
Note that there are 2 flashers in most cars of this age; one works the hazards, the other the TS. If memory serves the hazard one is on the fusebox, the TS one is between the steering column and the ALDL connector, kind of above the driver's knee. It'll be a silver can about an inch and a half dia by about the same height. They don't often go bad but they definitely can.
First make sure all your bulbs are good. Don't mess around with "test" or "inspect"; just REPLACE em all. Front, rear, side markers. Inspect the sockets CLOSELY to make sure nothing is wrong with those, which would usually be corrosion. Clean them out with spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner so you can see the contacts well (careful not to get that on your paint). Make sure you get the bulbs in the sockets RIGHT: pay close attention to the little pins that orient them, observing that they are 2 different distances from the base, and ensure that they are correctly turned and fully seated. Use some of that light bulb grease on the base of them to keep the contacts from getting moisture on them. Change out any of the sockets, with their pigtails, if they're fornicated, as some usually are in a car this old.
Well, I replaced the Turn Signal Flasher and now I get the clicking and flashing turn signal indicators in my dash. After also replacing both turn signal bulbs the right hand turn signal functions as it's supposed to. The left had signal is another story it will ONLY flash when the door is opened, but the right one doesn't. I believe that is because the actual hazards are wired into my alarm.
*On the left side bulb socket, one of the little metal tabs fell out! I was able to get it back into place and the bulb appears to be functional from a hazard flasher stand point, but will not operate under turn signal conditions...
On the left side bulb socket, one of the little metal tabs fell out! I was able to get it back into place and the bulb appears to be functional from a hazard flasher stand point, but will not operate under turn signal conditions... Any insight?
Not really; just this.
Change out any of the sockets, with their pigtails, if they're fornicated
If the alarm is adversely affecting normal vehicle operation, GET RID OF IT, and put all the wiring back the way it came.
Before just splicing in a new bulb socket I decided to look over the wiring schematics in my service manual. I found that the LH turn signal has a light blue wire from the bulb all the way back. I went outside only to find a light blue wire cut with a wire cap on it... Despite all my efforts I couldn't find the other cut end. I will be back out looking for it at daybreak but if anyone knows the routing of this light blue wire your insight would be appreciated!
Look at the bulkhead connector, below the brake booster. Observe that it has 2 halves, each with its own harness coming out of it. One half goes to the engine; the other goes to the front clip, with the lights, horn, etc. in it.
As I've said before, it should be illegal to sell someone a pair of dykes without them being licensed to use them by demonstrating proficiency and passing some kind of ethics test. BY FAR the most destructive tool in existence.
Look at the bulkhead connector, below the brake booster. Observe that it has 2 halves, each with its own harness coming out of it. One half goes to the engine; the other goes to the front clip, with the lights, horn, etc. in it.
As I've said before, it should be illegal to sell someone a pair of dykes without them being licensed to use them by demonstrating proficiency and passing some kind of ethics test. BY FAR the most destructive tool in existence.
Hey sofakingdom, I believe the connector your talking about is under the hood. The spliced ends i'm tracing are under the steering column area. Since i'm the noob that has to back trace a "mechanics" hackery I totally agree that it should be illegal to sell someone a pair of wire cutters without them being licensed to use them lol!
I believe the connector your talking about is under the hood.
That would be correct: that is consistent with where the brake booster is.
The harness in question leaves the connector and runs along the "frame" kinda below the steering column to get to the front of the car where the lights & horn are. So yeah, you're probably in the right place.
There's a small bolt in the center of that connector. It's about a 7 or 8mm. If you take it out, you can unplug the connector, as well as the opposite end of all the breakouts, and COMPLETELY remove the harness from the car. MUCH eeeeeeezier to work on it with it laying on your workbench than to try to dink with it around / through / under / behind other car parts.
Removing the entire harness is not optional, it's my daily driver. I have tried to narrow it down for ease of assistance... the pic below will show the wire in question and how it's capped. Following the schematic it would appear there's a Lt Blue wire coming into the gauge cluster from the C100 Bulkhead (For the cluster indicator) and out to wherever else it goes. Given the fact the Turn Signal indicator in the gauge works I traced the wire from the outlet on the cluster onward to the cut/capped section... but then the trail goes cold...
*There's a Yellow cut wire right beside it, Also tying to identify it
OK, sorry; so we're working under the dash, not on the opposite side of the firewall. That wasn't immediately clear before. I thought you were out near the engine.
A great place to start is with your mental discipline about "from" and "to" with respect to the wires. Best to think of, starting at the power source; power flows "from" the battery "to" the flasher, then "to" the TS switch, then "to" the dash indicator and C100 with a splice somehow somewhere since it "goes" "to" 2 places, then "to" the light. Just getting that sequence in the right order will help A GREAT DEAL in illuminating (sorry) the problem at hand.
So: start at the steering column plug. Long skinny thing that lays flat up against the column. Has around 12 wires or so in it. Among which is, a lt blu. Does it have 12V on it when you try to operate the left TS? OK fine, then follow that wire to where it goes next. 12V there? OK fine, follow it to C100. 12V there? and so forth.
But even before that, I would STRONGLY recommend that you GET RID OF THE ALARM. I have NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER seen an aftermarket alarm that works for more than a few years, then either the alarm itself or the book-hours type installer crap slap-it-in-and-send-it-down-the-road CRAP installation hackjob FAILS HARD. Looks like you might just be in the FAIL HARD stage of things.
GET RID OF THE ALARM. Put the car back as factory as you can manage before trying to figure out why stuff doesn't work. There's NO WAY IN HELL guess what kind of fornication is going on in your car, with THAT in there. HOW THE HELL are we out here supposed to guess what the above installer did to that poor car while he was hacking that thing in there as fast as he possibly could? We can't. De-alarm the car FIRST, then come back and we can talk about what wires go where. Until then, there's NO WAY IN HELL we can randomly lickily GUESS what was cut, spliced, hacked, twisted together with wire nuts, and whatever all else, in the process of that ... involuntary rectal activity, any better than YOU can since YOU're the one looking at it all. Gotta clean up that sodomy before any useful troubleshooting can occur.
Change out any of the sockets, with their pigtails, if they're fornicated, as some usually are in a car this old.
Went back to the gentleman whom installed the alarm and after a full inspection it was a faulty socket. Replaced w/ a JY one I had laying around, LH Signal now operational.
