JonJon5.0

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

Hey JonJon,

Tbh, If you can't jump start the car you've got a bigger issue than Electronic Hatch Motor, and the trunk being flush but not shut. At this point it would be my personal suggestion to forget about the trunk and get the car started. The alternator will then charge the battery, then you'll have the power to activate the hatch motor *Unless* you have an open circuit somewhere leading to immediate and consistent battery drain or a flat out bad battery.
If I may ask, how are you attempting to jump the car. Positive Terminal To Positive / Negative Terminal to Negative between two batteries *OR* are you going Pos To Pos (Battery To Battery) & Neg to Bare Metal Under the hood? I've had my best success jumping my 92RS with the secondary configuration mentioned (Positive Terminal to Positive Terminal between batteries & Negative Terminal on other car battery to the clean bolt on the strut mount of my 92RS) and it has always worked within 15 minutes.

Just my

JonJon5.0

92RS-HeritageEd

iTrader: (2)

I have a 92 GMSM and i'll research that circuit and post findings in a bit unless a Sr member chimes in first! Btw, you may want to start a post solely related to the Hatch Motor.

Aviator857

Open the hatch, there is a little plastic switch beside the latch "catch" take a flat head screw driver or something of the sort and gently push the switch closed. The latch should start moving downward, let it go all the way to the bottom where it stops and turns off. Then release the switch, it should then go all the way to the top. At this point it should work normally. If not, pull the panel cover, there is a relay, there is also a fuse that is beside your fuse box but not in it (it looks like an aftermarket fuse holder). Check these. Also inspect the gear housing that the electric motor drives. If you shut the hatch too hard without the mech working right its very easy to bust this housing and then the gears don't engauge.

There is also a switch at the bottom of the travel you can try messing with that and see if you can get it to "reset".

If none of these simple fixes work then it will be time to bust out the schematics and do a systematic test.

Aviator857

I once had the bottom switch go bad, and the motor would pull it all the way down and then reach max torque but not shut off. This would kill my battery over night. However when I charged the battery back up, the hatch pull down didn't re-engage until I opened and closed it. It took me forever to identify the draw. I took it to a mechanic even and since well they never opened the hatch they couldn't repeat, I put an amp meter on the car and couldn't find any excessive switch off draws. Then one day after buying groceries I moved my car from beside the door to my parking spot (was in college at the time) and I just happened to hear a click back there. I put 1:1 together and figured it out. So I positioned it so the the hatch would close tight enough by manually engaging the switch and then pulled the fuse (I left it like this for a few months) until I found a good replacement switch in the junkyard.

I bring this up because when you had your hatch open its possible you had the opposite of this issue that it had reached to top of the travel but the contact switch didn't turn it off, that would explain why it killed your battery so quickly.

DaveyDug

iTrader: (3)

What is the actual fix for the issue you described? My hatch does the same thing - opens fine, but the latch stays down toward the bottom of its travel instead of moving upward. I have to hold the switch until it extends upward every time I use the hatch. Then once it pulls the hatch down, it only goes about halfway down and stops. I have to put downward pressure on the hatch and then the motor engages again and pulls it the rest of the way down.

My hatch is out of alignment, which is an issue that I plan to address this spring. Could that be playing a role in this issue?

Not trying to hijack, thought this might be relevant to OP's current problem.

Aviator857

Those switches wear out, could be that, but if its getting stuck mid way down I would suspect either the gear housing or the plastic guides.

https://www.top-downsolutions.com/hatch-pull-down-items

Everything you need but the switches to rebuild it--
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/hat...-Pull-Down-Kit

No one makes the switches TDS has re-built switches or find them in the junkyard (if you see a good latch mech at the junkyard grab it )

JonJon5.0

Aviator857

Just use the motor to get the hatch somewhat tight, then pull the fuse. You may have to fidget with it some to get where it shuts but is still tight enough to keep the rain and exhaust out.

Some of the very early years had a manual latch, you might be able to make a 4th gen latch work if you have the tools to Fab a mount. The thirdgen manual latch and the 4th gen still pull it tight it's just a mechanical process.

JonJon5.0

Aviator857

I just recently replaced my hood latch cable as it was starting to break. You can take some of the air dam plastic off the bottom and get to the latch.

Also your battery is probably shot and will only hold a charge for a short time with no load.

JonJon5.0

JonJon5.0