Hello all,

I have a 1991 camaro tbi rs 305. I was wondering, could I replace the fusable links at the starter motor with an inline fuse holder? What would the amperage be? I went to 3 autopart stores today and could not find fusable links. I at least want to try and crank her up tomorrow.

 

Use fusible link wire, I’ve found it at Napa .
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...able+link+wire

 

The inline fuse holders won't have large enough wire to support the current load, and the AT style fuses don't really go high enough for a wire that large either. You would have to step up to something bigger and more robust.
That being said, there is no reason to replace fusable links if they are not burned out.

 

A fusible link is simply a piece of wire that is (typically) 4 gauge sizes smaller that the circuit it's protecting. So if you need to protect a 14 gauge circuit you use a section of 18 gauge wire. It's quite simple actually.

GD

 

The initial inrush current would most likely blow any fuse - even a slow-blow. That's why fusible links are used.

 

I got my fusible links here: https://www.repairconnector.com/prod...14-Gauge-.html

Looks like NAPA has what you need though...

 

Definitely go with fusible links. An old parts store in town had them on the shelf.

 

Putting in regular fuses is about the worst thing you can do.

Just put it back together right. Avoid the problems fuses will cause.

 

I did a swap and the power wire to my HVAC fan high speed has no power. I have not traced is yet but I do know it does not go through the burnt out connector behind the passenger valve cover. I am assuming it went through the old harness and came out near the starter. I could run a new power wire from my new power center but I have no idea on what to use for the fuse size. Should I use an inline fuse or find a fusible link mentioned above? Either way, what size would I use?

 

I understand this as a matter of fixing a stock car problem to avoid amateur shade tree hacks but, most cars 1993+ do not even have fuse links.
I have tossed the garbage fuse links to the wayside for newer car style fusing of circuits. If you wouldn't mind, elaborate, please.

 

I've touched on this before and the only reasonable sort of response I received was one of the kind of environment a fusible link can compete in compared to a fuse. That said, I've installed fuses in almost all manner of machinery know to man, even a car, and have never ever fully understood why a fusible link was ever used in the first place . Except other than it was the technology of the day plus it was cheap (and I've been around cars longer than most here I'll bet). Technology changes. A fuse can compete with a fusible link any day of the week provided it's sized and spec'd correctly. In rush current or otherwise.

 

The fusible links by the starter are in some of the worst environmental conditions of any part of the car. Above the y pipe, so lots of heat, plus within splash path of water and everything else.

They're well suited for the task.

 

So, therein lies the rub.
WHY are there fusible links by the starter? Because it was a convenient and economical way for the OEMs to do it back in the day. The only wires that really need to be at the starter are the large gauge starter wire itself and the solenoid wire. The rest are just a matter of having that large stud on the starter as an easy way to continue the electrical distribution. As an example, my late model Chev truck has the relay and fuse centre practically on top of the battery. No fusible link that I'm aware of.
Now all of that said, I'm not suggesting that the link be replaced by ANY kind of fuse in that particular location. It would be a problem for sure. But, as I've done, at least part of that bundle of wires near the starter has been rerouted and now originates near the battery. I've an isolated binding post on the fender and an array of fuses in that location. Goodbye fusible links.