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But I have changed the motor + housing and I have the system who down and up continualy without stop and closed the trunk........
I must to open the trunk at the dash buttom for stop the work of motor...
perhaps a bad adjust of run between the switch ....
When I take my finger, the motor down until the switch inverser work and the motor up, and continualy....
I clean this contact but not more
I know, lot of post on it but it is not easy to understand all....
I've never studied the hatch motor in person, but I also have been curious how it works. I can see from the wiring diagram that there are 2 switches that operate the motor.
1. The "Latch Switch" is operated by the key lock. It's job is to start the motor for opening and closing the hatch.
2. The "Striker Switch" is what turns off the motor at the end of its operation cycle. (Probably a motion limiting switch actuated by the movement of the striker assembly.)
It sounds as if your striker switch isn't working, thereby causing the motor to run continuously without shutting off. The motor pulls down the striker assembly when hatch closes. At some point the "striker switch" should stop the motor from running. Likewise, the motor pushes up the striker assembly when the hatch opens, and at some point the "striker switch" should stop the motor from running.
Here is a wiring diagram I made from a 1988 Firebird service manual. I colored the circuits that are active in each scenario. You can see that the motor will not shut off until the striker switch flips to opposite position.
thanks for that, I am going to study it, mine is a 1987 but it is perhaps the same thing.
1. The "Latch Switch" is operated by the key lock. It's job is to start the motor for opening and closing the hatch.
But where is it ?
inside
I have readed also in an other topic, possible what the gear needs about 5 or 6 turns ?
"If it is moving up and down, but not closing, its possible the gear was not installed correctly. The gear needs about 5 or 6 turns and that is about it. If the gear is not in correct position, it will trigger the limit switches too early/late. don't recall which way. First make sure it is even turning, because you will need to disassemble everything to get to the gear. there is probably a small amount of testing you can simulate while the hatch is open."
Last edited by Bavooz Flo; Dec 2, 2019 at 04:27 AM.
thanks for that, I am going to study it, mine is a 1987 but it is perhaps the same thing.
1. The "Latch Switch" is operated by the key lock. It's job is to start the motor for opening and closing the hatch.
But where is it ?
I have readed also in an other topic, possible what the gear needs about 5 or 6 turns ?
In the quoted picture you posted, the striker switch is on the top left part of the latch mechanism. In your picture it is what appears to be a brass type color, and has that "nub" protruding from the top of it. For lack of a better way of describing it.
With your rear hatch open and the motor plugged back in, you should be able to press and release this switch manually with your fingers to watch the hatch pull down do its thing to better determine the actual issue.
Two things to consider
1. Proper function of the striker switch should do the following.
A. With the mechanism in the "up" position, pressing in the latch switch should power on the motor to lower the mechanism to the "down" position. at the full down position a tab on the lift rod will flip the reversing switch.
B. With the mechanism in the "down" position, releasing the latch switch should power on the motor to raise the mechanism to the "up" position. Where similar as before, a second tab on the lift rod will flip the reversing switch again allowing it to lower back down as stated above.
2. The main things to give attention/consideration while working on the hatch pull down unit is:
A. It's important to have the plastic guides in place, clean, and in good shape.
B. The plastic gear you're asking about needing more turns, it doesn't really matter where it is just so long as it's within the normal travel of the system.
C. When putting it all together, pay attention to the position of the reversing switch, as well as the two tabs on the lift rod. If they are installed incorrectly, it can cause the motor to run and run and run and possibly strip out your new plastic gear that screws onto the lift rod.
I may be missing some info, but I hope that helps. I recently just rebuilt/repaired the one on my car so its fairly fresh on my mind. Had to take mine apart a second time because I didn't correctly note the positions of the reversing switch and the tabs on the lift rod.
I have already done the test with the finger on the latch switch on the two position (A and B) and my motor work and the strikker work good, and the reversing switch work good also. and as long as I keep my finger down, the cycle does not stop, UP and DOWN
plastic guides in place, and slide good
I think my problem can be your C : pay attention to the position of the reversing switch, as well as the two tabs on the lift rod
but what is the good position ? I could not do on the older model, because all the housing has destroyed
I have already done the test with the finger on the latch switch on the two position (A and B) and my motor work and the strikker work good, and the reversing switch work good also. and as long as I keep my finger down, the cycle does not stop, UP and DOWN
plastic guides in place, and slide good
I think my problem can be your C : pay attention to the position of the reversing switch, as well as the two tabs on the lift rod
but what is the good position ? I could not do on the older model, because all the housing has destroyed
"Had to take mine apart a second time because I didn't correctly note the positions of the reversing switch and the tabs on the lift rod."
In my situation, the older installation was completly destroy, severals pieces in the trunk, no example .....for get the same good position.
No worries, things like that happen on older cars.
My rear trim panel is still off from when I fixed mine, I'll do my best to take some clear pictures this evening when I get home from work. That should help clear things up as far as any doubts of assembly.
Okay, below is a picture of mine. It's not the best but if the positioning of the switch is your problem, then it should help guide you in the right direction.
I tried to get a better look at your very first picture, it almost seems like the switch is sitting above the top tab, but is difficult to say for certain.