Austin Jochum

So I have a 86 camaro that I recently replaced the engine in

the oil pressure gauge worked for a while then quit working I replaced the oil pressure sender and it didn’t help “at least I don’t think it did” when i went to fire it up after the new sender it kinda worked bounced between past 60 psi and 0 on idle so I went and took the gauge cluster apart when I had it apart I could see nothing burned up and it all looked good so I cleaned the connections and tried it out and it started working I put it all back together and it was fine for about a day when I went to start it the next day the gauge was again not working but I had places to be and drove it any way putting faith in the rebuilt motor with a new oil pump and all new bearings later in the day it was warmer out and I started the car and what do ya know the gauge is once again working so for a week I went with it only working when it’s warm

after about a week of it working in warmer weather it stoped working in any situation so I once again tore the gauge out to find nothing wrong I tried a new sender again with the problem not fixed, tried a gauge from a parts car to find that that one didn’t work as well in fear that the new pump went out I put a mechanical gauge in place of the sender and started the car it has 40psi on idle, 50psi when choked at 2000 rpm, and about 75psi at 3500rpm

the only thing I can think is that the new motor has too much pressure and is frying the senders if anyone has any other ideas of what it can be or senders that can handle the pressure please let me know

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Cheap junk replacement senders. Bad wire somewhere. Bad electronic components in the gauge (assuming it has any), honestly I don't feel like digging one out to look.

Stock gauge sender should have a restricted inlet. I'd doubt the engine is creating so much pressure it's blowing out the sender. More likely there's a corroded wire somewhere.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

If the gauge pegs itself it means there is a short to ground somewhere in the circuit usually.

Austin Jochum

So I know the wire and connections are good because when the sender is plugged in the gauge is at zero and when I un hook it the gauge is pegged I thought the gauge it’s self might be bad and that’s why I tried one from the parts car but it didn’t help at all

I haven’t tried the mechanical gauge past 3500 rpm but it wouldn’t surprise me when I’m getting in the 4500 to 5000 rpm range that it’s putting out around 100 psi which is why I thought it might have ruined the sender

Austin Jochum

thinking I might have ruined the sender I compared the newer one to the original (just to get an idea) hooked up an ohm meter to the terminal and body then supplied a little bit of pressure by blowing into it the original started around 4 ohms and so did the newer one when a little pressure was supplied the original went to around 60 ohms then dropped to 20 ohms when pressure was removed, the newer one bumped up to around 15 ohms then back down to 4 ohms when pressure was removed
not sure what these completely different readings mean but hopefully it helps diagnose a problem

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

whoops correcting myself here.

guage will peg itself if there is no ground, aka wire disconnected.