Hi, I've been all over site read alot on installing console on a car that didn't have it from factory.
My problem: I copied a post here where the gentleman said to check voltage of the 2 wires coming up to dome light. The wire that shows 12vdc with everything off gets hooked to the white wire in console. The wire that gets 12vdc when door opens or switch turned on gets hooked to the orange wire.
Upon checking voltage on my car I have both wires showing voltage 12vdc to ground. When door opens or switch is turned on one has 12vdc and the other looses it. This is with bulb removed.
Am I doing something wrong? I don't want to blow the light switch like what happened to the guy that wrote the instructions.

 

There IS NO wire that "gets 12V when the door is opened". Which of course would explain why you didn't find one.

A bulb (or just about anything else in the car) works ONLY when there's 12V on one side, and ground on the other. The interior light bulbs have 12V at all times on one side (the orange wire), but the other side is not grounded unless something grounds the white wire, which is usually either a door switch or the headlight switch contact.

The white wire will have 12V on it when all the lights are off, as long as ANY bulb in the interior system remains installed. When something happens that calls for turning the lights on, it will go to ground.

So yes, sounds to me like you're doing something wrong. The car however is working fine, just like it's supposed to. Your measurements and observations are correct; but your interpretation of their meaning is wrong.

Also, d00d's instructions are wrong. Hook the console's white wire (the one that gets grounded by door switches and whatnot) to the car's white wire, and the console's orange wire to the car's orange wire (constant battery). Kinda basic stuff here. Color to color. There's a reason they made those wires those colors. Which incidentally might also explain why he blew something up by hooking it up backwards.

 

Sofakingdom, thank you for your Supreme knowledge of the wiring spaghetti.
The big draw back and reason for post was because both wires coming up left window post are white and no distinguishing markings to clarify which goes where.
The post I saw said one has 12v all the time, which I one that does, but the other was suppose to get 12v when switch is activated. My conundrum was the other white wire also had 12v with door shut and switch off and losses 12v. Just opposite of instructions.
I did note you said if ANY bulbs are in and the floor courtesy bulbs are still in possibly causing the loss instead of getting 12v.
Thanks again. I will remove bulbs and test but with your info I'm confident that the wire that's losing 12v goes white and the constant goes orange. Thanks again.

 

Yeah, that's just ... wrong.

Actually, what the presence of ANY bulbs is doing, is causing the switched wire (the one that goes to ground when you open a door) to have 12V on it when a door is NOT open. If there were no bulbs at all, and no key buzzer (because that's on that circuit too), then that wire would appear dead all the time to a voltmeter.

Sounds like you have it figured out.