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Hi everyone I have a 1991 pontiac firebird trans am and have got an intermitting clicking when starting, these are the things I have done...
New battery
New starter
New alternator
New cable from battery to starter
New cable from alternator to battery
New earth cable from battery to block
New battery terminals
Also check voltage from battery to starter good.
And the dam thing still clicking grrrrrr
Can anyone help or have some idear
Are you saying that the Engine starts and runs properly...
But a Clicking Noise can be heard while Starting/ Cranking the Engine...
Then the noise stops as the Engine is now running?
Or are you saying that the Engine does not Start...
The Engine Cranks (Makes the Clicking Noise) but does not actually Start/ Run?
Also maybe you could try to tell us, where about/ where around the Car...
the Noise can be Heard/ Heard the loudest/ is coming from?
Are you saying that the Engine starts and runs properly...
But a Clicking Noise can be heard while Starting/ Cranking the Engine...
Then the noise stops as the Engine is now running?
Or are you saying that the Engine does not Start...
The Engine Cranks (Makes the Clicking Noise) but does not actually Start/ Run?
Also maybe you could try to tell us, where about/ where around the Car...
the Noise can be Heard/ Heard the loudest/ is coming from?
Yes the car runs sweet, it just every now and then it clicks on the starter a few times then cranks up ok, I've going to order a new ignition key see if that might be the problem on the vats, the key is 30 yrs old
If i interpret your message correctly, the clicking before the starter gear engages on the flywheel/flexplate usually indicates that the solenoid is failing and/or u need to clean the wiring on the starter & solenoid.
If i interpret your message correctly, the clicking before the starter gear engages on the flywheel/flexplate usually indicates that the solenoid is failing and/or u need to clean the wiring on the starter & solenoid.
Nope brand new starter, going to order new key see if that fixes it, key is 30 yrs old
No it clicks few times then starts but not all the time, I'm going to order new key see if that fixes it, key is 30 yrs old
I'm confused by your answer. Need more clarity.
If the click noise is coming from the starter then it means the starter solenoid is physically throwing but the motor is not cranking. If you turn the key to the crank position and get a single "click" from starter that means one thing (it's called a "click no crank" in the starter business and there are specific reasons why that happens). If you turn the key and hold in the crank position and the starter rapidly clicks multiple times without cranking then that means another thing (it's called "solenoid chatter" and there are specific reasons why that happens).
If the click sound is coming from the interior of the car then that's a different line of investigation too. Need more clarity which is your symptom in order to give you good advice.
If the click noise is coming from the starter then it means the starter solenoid is physically throwing but the motor is not cranking. If you turn the key to the crank position and get a single "click" from starter that means one thing (it's called a "click no crank" in the starter business and there are specific reasons why that happens). If you turn the key and hold in the crank position and the starter rapidly clicks multiple times without cranking then that means another thing (it's called "solenoid chatter" and there are specific reasons why that happens).
If the click sound is coming from the interior of the car then that's a different line of investigation too. Need more clarity which is your symptom in order to give you good advice.
When I turn the key I get click, if I hold the key in that position I get nothing, when I try again it will either click again or start, but this doesn't happen everytime most times she starts first time, and because I've replace all part for new, make me think it the vats, the key has an ohm rating maybe it not registering so going to order new key, and the nwe starter is a high torch one, I'm going to get my original starter rebuilt, just anoying little thing
Maybe but at what point do I stop buying starters 3,4,10, do just keep going back to the shop saying nope this starter is bad too lol 😂
If you don't have the skill to disassemble the starter and repair it yourself, your only choice is to take it back---after you've correctly diagnosed the specific problem.
If you don't have the skill to disassemble the starter and repair it yourself, your only choice is to take it back---after you've correctly diagnosed the specific problem.
I have got the skill to dismantling it, why would I do that to a new starter and loose warranty, as you can see by my original post have bought everything new, I put the post out there to see if someone could help, maybe something else I've missed, not taking new starters back on forth to the shop or dissemble new starters, thanks for your input
I would put car up on ramps, take flexplate or flywheel cover off. Have someone turn key while I was under there listening and looking at what is going on when starter clicks or engages.
When I turn the key I get click, if I hold the key in that position I get nothing, when I try again it will either click again or start, but this doesn't happen everytime most times she starts first time, and because I've replace all part for new, make me think it the vats, the key has an ohm rating maybe it not registering so going to order new key, and the nwe starter is a high torch one, I'm going to get my original starter rebuilt, just anoying little thing
Sounds like a classic story of what engineers call an intermittent "click-no-crank". Solenoid throws (the click noise) but nothing happens. Typically it is caused by starter not clearing tooth abutment with flywheel, or the solenoid contacts have a dead spot that won't conduct electricity to the motor. I doubt it's the starter in your case considering it is new and the problem happened with old and new starter. Probably related to some kind of inability to consistently clear a tooth abutment and fall into mesh with the flywheel.
Tooth abutments are normal and it is the starter's job to rotate the pinion gear to clear the abutment and fall into mesh with the flywheel. Sometimes it doesn't work and the pinion gear gets stuck in tooth abutment and the starter doesn't crank the engine. I'm making an assumption here that your starter won't crank until in full mesh with flywheel. A lot of small starters actually do turn on before touching flywheel and it is super reliable but would mill the living **** out of the gears if did not get into mesh -- basically there's no such thing as a click-no-crank with that style.... it's a mill-no-crank
#1 most common reason is too much voltage drop in the solenoid Switch (S) terminal circuit. I'm not kidding, this is almost always the problem. Voltage losses reduce the current through the solenoid which also reduces torque and pushing forces at pinion gear during initial engagement. In other words, the starter turns into a weeny that can't slide across the tooth of the flywheel. Check that there is no more than 1V difference between S terminal and B+ terminal while starter is in operation. If too much voltage drop then chase the purple wire back into the cab and figure out why.
Related to #1 is voltage losses on the ground side. Starter body itself is part of the ground circuit and it makes contact to engine block at the mounting pad. Make sure the pads meets nicely, the surfaces are clean, bare metal to bare metal, no gaskets or paint or other insulating material. Likewise, make sure your cable ring terminals are metal to metal contact to engine block and frame, no paint, no corrosion.
If it's not electrical then it might be mechanical. An old, worn flywheel will have chips and burrs that hang up the starter during tooth abutment. Use your fingernail to feel for burrs on the flywheel. It hardly takes anything to hang up the starter. Knock off the burrs with a wire wheel or replace flywheel or ring gear if really worn or damaged.
Tight gear backlash will make it more difficult for starter to fall into mesh. Make sure starter is shimmed properly with adequate backlash.
It does however throw a rod that moves a big electrical switch mounted further down the steering column that carries current for the starter solenoid. My old switch got oxidized after a couple decades and had intermittent problems. I disassembled it, scrubbed and cleaned the copper contacts, and put it back together as good as new. Problem solved.
#1 most common reason is too much voltage drop in the solenoid Switch (S) terminal circuit. I'm not kidding, this is almost always the problem. Voltage losses reduce the current through the solenoid which also reduces torque and pushing forces at pinion gear during initial engagement.
All nissan 240sx have this issue. The issue is caused by the path electrical current takes, from fuse box, to ignition cylinder, to starter solenoid. The wire is too thin and the cylinder contact is inadequate.
I Always fix this issue easily by installing a relay near the solenoid. The relay takes the starter signal that used to go to the solenoid, instead now it trigger the relay. The relay of course is connected directly to some powerful battery source. Walaa no more voltage drop to the solenoid. This aux starter relay also doubles as a theft cutout switch, put a switch on the ground or power side and its a kill.
Yes, I once got a plane ride to Germany because of a click-no-crank problem. Carried a mag switch and o-scope in my hand and solved the problem in 10 minutes. But it was the Germans so I had to stay another 10 days to prove it was fixed for good. Don't ask why I had to travel for such a simple issue. That's politics for ya.
Yes, I once got a plane ride to Germany because of a click-no-crank problem. Carried a mag switch and o-scope in my hand and solved the problem in 10 minutes. But it was the Germans so I had to stay another 10 days to prove it was fixed for good. Don't ask why I had to travel for such a simple issue. That's politics for ya.
hah. I flew to Kansas once for an A/C issue in a friends car, had with me the R134 I needed dot dot
Last edited by Kingtal0n; May 20, 2022 at 09:27 PM.
Sounds like a classic story of what engineers call an intermittent "click-no-crank". Solenoid throws (the click noise) but nothing happens. Typically it is caused by starter not clearing tooth abutment with flywheel, or the solenoid contacts have a dead spot that won't conduct electricity to the motor. I doubt it's the starter in your case considering it is new and the problem happened with old and new starter. Probably related to some kind of inability to consistently clear a tooth abutment and fall into mesh with the flywheel.
Tooth abutments are normal and it is the starter's job to rotate the pinion gear to clear the abutment and fall into mesh with the flywheel. Sometimes it doesn't work and the pinion gear gets stuck in tooth abutment and the starter doesn't crank the engine. I'm making an assumption here that your starter won't crank until in full mesh with flywheel. A lot of small starters actually do turn on before touching flywheel and it is super reliable but would mill the living **** out of the gears if did not get into mesh -- basically there's no such thing as a click-no-crank with that style.... it's a mill-no-crank
#1 most common reason is too much voltage drop in the solenoid Switch (S) terminal circuit. I'm not kidding, this is almost always the problem. Voltage losses reduce the current through the solenoid which also reduces torque and pushing forces at pinion gear during initial engagement. In other words, the starter turns into a weeny that can't slide across the tooth of the flywheel. Check that there is no more than 1V difference between S terminal and B+ terminal while starter is in operation. If too much voltage drop then chase the purple wire back into the cab and figure out why.
Related to #1 is voltage losses on the ground side. Starter body itself is part of the ground circuit and it makes contact to engine block at the mounting pad. Make sure the pads meets nicely, the surfaces are clean, bare metal to bare metal, no gaskets or paint or other insulating material. Likewise, make sure your cable ring terminals are metal to metal contact to engine block and frame, no paint, no corrosion.
If it's not electrical then it might be mechanical. An old, worn flywheel will have chips and burrs that hang up the starter during tooth abutment. Use your fingernail to feel for burrs on the flywheel. It hardly takes anything to hang up the starter. Knock off the burrs with a wire wheel or replace flywheel or ring gear if really worn or damaged.
Tight gear backlash will make it more difficult for starter to fall into mesh. Make sure starter is shimmed properly with adequate backlash.
I will have a look at all them points thank you, really appreciate your feedback 👍👍
It does however throw a rod that moves a big electrical switch mounted further down the steering column that carries current for the starter solenoid. My old switch got oxidized after a couple decades and had intermittent problems. I disassembled it, scrubbed and cleaned the copper contacts, and put it back together as good as new. Problem solved.
Yes I know replaced ignition switch on the colum, about a year ago it was doing it before and after
,Old voltage drop causes clicking, key click, key click, key key key click click START
Relay gives full voltage to starter solenoid
Also prevents ignition switch burnout, makes up for aged ignition switch
Right so I'm just disconnect purple wire from started which is the ignition wire, to the relay and then back to the starter, the great idear no harm in trying that 👍👍👍
Right so I'm just disconnect purple wire from started which is the ignition wire, to the relay and then back to the starter, the great idear no harm in trying that 👍👍👍
Yes, purple wire is relocated to operate the mag switch field coil.
In a production environment we don't run wire from battery to the mag switch, we just tap from the B+ terminal at starter. It should not be necessary for you though if you're wiring is healthy. The stock start relay inside the car is part of that wiring and if the relay contacts have gotten degraded then that could be your problem right there. The relay is located behind the driver side kick panel near the carpet.
Yes, purple wire is relocated to operate the mag switch field coil.
In a production environment we don't run wire from battery to the mag switch, we just tap from the B+ terminal at starter. It should not be necessary for you though if you're wiring is healthy. The stock start relay inside the car is part of that wiring and if the relay contacts have gotten degraded then that could be your problem right there. The relay is located behind the driver side kick panel near the carpet.
Yeah I had a look at that relay it say if the stop working you would get nothing not even a click, what I will do is cut the purple wire that goes to the starter put that through a relay then one from relay to starter like on you diagram see if that solves the problem, just wondering if it will interfere with the vats, shouldnt do, I'll keep you posted 👍
Don't ask why I had to travel for such a simple issue. That's politics for ya. 
