Anyone know what this connector hanging down next to my catalytic converter is? It has 2 white wires. The car is a 91 v6 Firebird. I am having severe no power on acceleration with backfiring, then surging issue. The car takes a few more tries than its usual start right up first try but then idles perfectly and also runs strong once up to speed. Stalls occasionally at sudden stops or turns. Was thinking it was a fuel issue ie. filter, pressure, etc. but now after getting codes 13, 23, 33, 43, 44
wonder if it is a sensor or circuit issue? The lurching is so embarassing and I'm sure terrible for the car. Thanks!

 

I'm goin out on a limb and am gonna guess it's your VSS, , tell me, does your speedometer work ?

 

Nope, speedo and odom both quit a while back!

 

Where does it plug in? Should I try plugging it back in myself? It is hard getting under my car and 115 degrees out where i live in the desert, pavement is hot!

 

It plugs in to the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) which is located on the transmission's tailshaft housing, I'll see if I got any pics of where it goes.....

 

Ok, so, the silver thing with the plastic gear at the top left of my first picture is the VSS. It is mounted in the big hole you see in the tailshaft housing shown in pic #2. The hanging connector under your car plugs into the black connector on the VSS, this is on your transmission's left (driver's) side of the car. Plugging that back in should get your speedometer (as well as your TCC) working again.

 

Thank you. I will give it a try.

 

Cool, jack it up a bit so you can get under, be SURE to put a jackstand or two under it so ya don't get squished, and bring a flashlight so you can see the connector on the back of the VSS. The plug only fits one way, it's got a little latch on one side that has to line up with the locking tab on the VSS connector. It's supposed to click into place (which leaves me wondering how it became disconnected in the first place) ....

 

Yikes, I'm thinking I might take it to someone with a lift. I am always fearing that I will get squished when I want to do any under car stuff.

 

Honestly, if your not comfortable getting under it, there is NO shame whatsoever in having someone with a lift plug it back in for you. It's literally a two second job, it'll take longer to lift the car than it will to plug it back in, and then no worries about the big squish. Just know that while your speedometer (and odometer) will likely work again, as well as your TCC, it's not gonna fix all of the running issues you described in post #1. Your TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) will be a great thing to have working again, it acts almost like a "fifth gear" and saves some miles per gallon (a worthy repair in an age of $5.00 a gallon gas)

 

I am having my son in law help me raise the car right now. So any insight into the chugging and backfire from the codes but good idle? I'm curious as to why it didn't set a code 24 i believe for the VSS? Also, where do you live Orangebird? Gas is $7/gallon here in So Cali!

 

Hi tatianam, I live about 30 miles from Boston Ma. and although we were at $5.05 gallon recently, we're down to around $4.80 as of this morning. I'm gonna have to dig out my manual because I don't have the code's causes committed to memory, but I agree it's odd that the unplugged VSS didn't set a code.

 

I did it OrangeBird! I did it!! Thank you soooooo much.

 

Awesome! That's great to hear

 

Learning how to jack a car up in the air is a required beginner skill, but one that's under-rated and often forgot by some idiots.

Don't need to spend too much to get a basic jack okay for minor work that doesn't require too much height.

Good Jack-stands are you friend, and a hock puck makes a good pad to keep the metal jack cup off the metal under-body.

Unfortunately, a thirdgen's frame rails are DEEP under the car, so to jack it up with a short jack, does require some multi-stage work at times. Especially if the car is lowered. If all you have is one of the shorty jacks, I usually do this in order:

Jack up rear of car from pumpkin.
Get a stand under the axle by the shock mount.
This usually gives enough clearance for a short jack to reach the front frame-rail.
Jack stand under the A-Arm.

But honestly, if you own a 3rd gen, its best to get a low profile long reach jack. Harborfreight made a 2.5 Ton super long reach jack, but it was a heavy beast at around 100lbs. They don't make that exact model anymore. But they make a 3 ton version.

Its got a very low profile and deep reach. So its usually long enough to reach the frame-rail without lifting the car at all.

Its 3.25" tall at the nose, and nearly 32" deep, and will lift up to 24".

I've done MANY jobs with a jack like this. Engine swaps, trans swaps, gas tank removal for fuel pump swap, axle swaps, had the car VERY high up in the air.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-64781.html


car was literally high enough here with the tank out that I could sit cross-legged with my back straight.