Hi, it's getting warm around here and soon to be in the 100s. Every year when driving more than a short hop around town the starter won't work until I wait around for awhile. I've read on here that the cause is a skinny wire to the starter that builds resistance from the heat and causes this. I'm guessing it's that skinny purple or something wire with a small ring terminal on it the connects the the + terminal on the solenoid. Is that right? Can I only replace the part of that wire under the car, or is that too Mickey Mouse and I should replace the whole wire back to where? And how thick should the new wire be? Appreciate any assistance here, I'm getting kinda old but still like fixing my own car myself.
Thanks, Henry

 

Can you describe what happens when the starter "won't work?" Is there a clicking sound as you turn the key? Does the engine turn over but slowly, or what?

 

It just clicks when I've been driving for a decent while when the weather is hot. I've read about others here having that problem and replacing that wire is suggested. I'm just wondering how far back from the starter and to where does that wire connect to on the other end, and if the entire length of the wire needs to be replaced. I haven't seen anything on that issue on here lately, maybe I'll need to search back more. I don't ever recall reading where that wire starts out though...
Thanks

 

That small wire activates the starter solenoid, which then sends battery current to the starter motor. If you're hearing a click when you turn the key, that's an indicator that it's doing its job. Check your battery cables (the heavy wires from each battery terminal) end-to-end, especially at the connectors on the ends. If that doesn't turn up worn or corroded cables/connections, its likely you have a bad solenoid/starter. While it's also possible the battery is developing an internal open, that's not very likely.

One other quick test to do would be the next time the car fails to turn over is to turn on the headlights and have someone watch them as you try to crank the motor over. If the lights dim slightly, chances are the starter/solenoid is bad. If the lights go completely dark, it's probably bad battery cable(s) or connection(s).

Trying to diagnose electrical problems on the interwebz is always sketchy, but the above might give you some direction in which to search for the issue(s).

 

On second thought, I'm not sure if it clicks or not, I'll have to try and induce it to happen again

 

"Elektrotechnikmeister" here. Specialized in high currend Industry Applications.
If your Problem occurs in connection with temperatures i would focus on 2 things.

"bad connection" on the "main" curcuit aka the big wires. 12 volts are prone to dont work at all in big current applications if connection is not 100% .
If its hot the Wire "Bolts" will expand and Ring Terminals loose pressure > bad connection.

check and clean ( unscrew it and clean away all corrosion , scotch brite) following connections :
Batteryterminal + positive ( US Bolt Type / EU and canada ? Clamp type)
Battery to starter solenoid wire both ends
StarterSolenoid to Starter (very short connection)
Ground connection Engineblock to chassis (firewall) usually a wowen band (both ends)
Battery Negative to chassis (both ends)

To be Sure check also the small solenoid wire just in case

if you have this ruled out most likley your starter is about to die (solenoid contacts burn up or Starter)



Back then there WAS a common Heat Starter Problem on older Ones . But this is a Real Black Hole to dive in from Faulty springs to heatshields wrong shimming or complete new Starters.
->>> https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/chevy-starter-doesnt-work-when-it-gets-hot.65579/

 

How about a shield about the starter to deflect heat from the exhaust manifold. Been there & done that on a 1981 Olds Cutlass back in the day. Same problem with starter overheating due to the exhaust manifold. Installed heat shield & problem solved.

 

Yeah, it probably is the solenoid getting hot. Did you use a metal shield that you bought or made one? Is that better than any of the insulating wraps I've seen advertised, do you knom?
All good things to check on, thanks to all

 

not the solenoid. It is the windings on the inside wall of the starter.

 

Does this one look like it should work well?
CHEVY 1965-1997 STARTER SOLENOID HEAT SHIELD EZ-C01 327 350 396 400 454 502 572 | eBay

 

I have a partial picture of the heat shield on my (sold) 1972 Buick GS 350. It attaches to the block & cover the starter.
As per the one u found, it for big block engines but might work.

 

Thanks, I think I'm going to try this one out. If it's too thin it should still work as a pattern for thicker stock and definitely better than what I have now

 

Sometimes, the symptoms described can be worn solenoid contacts within.

Back in the day when I was cash poor, I would do this to get more mileage out of a GM solenoid with worn contacts (pardon the spelling):



It's more cost effective these days to just replace the solenoid.