My 88 GTA has no brakes lights what so ever. All other lights work fine (running, backup, blinker, flashers) all of witch use a common ground with the brake lights, I pulled the brake pedal switch and it works fine, I get 12v on the orange wire at the switch plug. When I jumper the orange with with either one of the light blue wires at the switch, still nothing.
So I'm thinking turn/flasher switch, but my 3rd brake light is direct wired from the pedal switch and its doesn't work ether.
Could I have two issues or am I missing something?

 

Sounds to me like a bad connection type of thing; high resistance where there is supposed to be none at all.

A car electrical system is incredibly stupidly simple. It relies on everything being either "disconnected" (turned off) or "connected" (turned on). It's much too eeeeezzzzy though, and incorrect besides, to "assume" that these are the only 2 possible states. Corrosion, contamination, broken wires, even a burned-up connection, can create all manner of "intermediate" states between an open and a dead short. Checking voltage with a meter while the circuit is not operating or is disassembled is ineffective and useless under such circumstances, because the circuit isn't loaded. Enough current might be able to "leak" through the bad connection for the meter to read something, but not enough to power the loads. So, for example, you might find 12V at the point the orange wire enters the switch, but when the lights attempt to draw current through it, the voltage goes away.

My guess would be, since the hazards work, that the problem is between S227 (a splice) and the BL sw connector. You say you tried a jumper between the org wire and the lt blu ones, and nothing worked. What was/is the voltage on the org wire at the BL sw at that time, with the jumper in place?

 

Thanks for your input. Turns out the brake pedal switch tested fine when looking for continuity but was still bad, The jumper wire I was using had a loose end. So when I went back too check voltage and fond that, I was able to get them to work with a new jumper. Anyway once I replaced the switch I was good to go.