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1987 IROC Z, originally came with he 350TPI and 700R. All of that is now removed as well as all the OEM ECU wiring. Now I've got a Holley Dominator wired in. I've noticed that I'm not going to be using many of the terminals in the C100 connector. Two that I will use are the power inputs A4 (OEM 10awg) and G5 (OEM 12awg) that were originally protected by fusible links at the starter solenoid. I've got a power "distribution point" on the firewall that will feed both of these terminals:
This is really an Eaton, ANL fuse holder that I'm using as a power distribution point. It's powered by a 4awg cable from the starter solenoid. There is no fuse in here.
My question is this: About how many amps would flow through both of these terminals with all accessories going that would pull power from them?
The reason that I'm asking is because I want to run both of those wires from the power distribution point into my Bussman RTMR fuse/relay box that you can see in the picture to the right of my clutch master cylinder reservoir. Both wires will be fused in the box.
This RTMR box's internal bussbar is limited to a maximum of 80 amps. Currently, in the box, I've got both low beam and high beam headlights, the starter solenoid relay and the Holley Dominator's ignition and fuel injectors, The Dominator's ignition/fuel injectors do not get powered by the internal bussbar so they aren't adding any load to the bussbar. I have a seperate wire that goes directly to the battery as per Holley's instructions. I also realize that the starter solenoid relay will only draw amperage during engine start. I don't start my car's engine with the headlights on so that reduces load in the RTMR box as well.
Last edited by dannyual320; Yesterday at 11:05 AM.
Reason: fix the title
When I did my car I ended up putting everything through the C100, I think I have maybe one or two positions not populated. I also used inline j case fuses instead of fusible link.
When I did my car I ended up putting everything through the C100, I think I have maybe one or two positions not populated. I also used inline j case fuses instead of fusible link.
I won't be using many of the C100 terminals at all.
I could wire in fusible links for my A4 and G5 wires as I have a big assortment of old school fusible links. Pretty much every size needed and a lot of it. It's just a pain to replace if it ever burns up due to a short. If I could just wire both of these into my RTMR box, I can use standard fuses to protect the wires.
I clicked on your link and I saw where Metripack 630 can carry up to 46 amps and Metripack 480 can carry up to 42 amps. I'm pretty sure that neither the A4 or G5 will be flowing that many amps in my car. I was just trying to get an idea of about how many amps would be passing through those two terminals so I could do add them up along with my headlights to make sure that I'm not overpowering the RTMR box.
I totally read that wrong, I was thinking could, not does. Exterior lighting is probably the biggest offender going through there and since you have the headlights wired through a relay that's dropping it quite a bit. It all depends on what's still hooked on the inside fuse box, gauges, radio, blower, lights. Id venture to say maybe 30a max on a stock car but the only way to be sure would be a clamp on ammeter and start turning stuff on.
This is the best solution, easy to replace if they blow unlike fuse link and minimal voltage drop as it's going straight to the battery instead of sharing a bus with other devices.
If one of the Big Red Wires gets shorted, it needs a fuse of the right size to protect it, so that it doesn't catch fire. Putting a fuse that's roughly double what it should be is a certain recipe for disaster.
It's EXTREMELY unlikely that both wires would get shorted at the same time. If their full-load current is 4x amps each, then a 50 or 60A fuse on each would be appropriate.
Just like your house breaker box: you might have a 200A main breaker, and breakers something like 100A electric heat, 50A range, 40A oven, 30A dryer, 30A A/C, 12 20A receptacle circuits, 10 15A lighting circuits, a 20A fridge, 20A microwave, 20A washing machine, and so on. WWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY less main breaker capacity than all the circuits downstream of it, all added up. Same deal here.
Additionally, the fusible links in the OE setup which you're functionally replicating, aren't there to protect the loads. Their ratings aren't based on the loads. They're based on the wire size and its burn-up current. Those fusible links are probably good for twice the combined "load" on each of them.
Use a single 80A fuse on the box's input to protect it. Then fuse each circuit to its wire rating, NOT based on its "load", to properly protect it, individually.
I totally read that wrong, I was thinking could, not does. Exterior lighting is probably the biggest offender going through there and since you have the headlights wired through a relay that's dropping it quite a bit. It all depends on what's still hooked on the inside fuse box, gauges, radio, blower, lights. Id venture to say maybe 30a max on a stock car but the only way to be sure would be a clamp on ammeter and start turning stuff on.
This is the best solution, easy to replace if they blow unlike fuse link and minimal voltage drop as it's going straight to the battery instead of sharing a bus with other devices.
No gauges as I've got a Holley 12.3" ProDash installed and wired up seperately to the battery. Radio, yes but the JL Audio power amp is wired seperately to the battery. HVAC blower in a 1987 Camaro is wired seperately from the fuse box. The blower gets its power from a relay that is powered by the C106 connector near the heater core hose inlet and outlets on the engine side of the firewall. In OEM configuration, the C106 connector is powered by a spliced wire off of the same wire that powers the C100, A4 terminal. I'm going to power the blower motor from my power distribution point.
You're probably right. I'd have to use an ammeter to measure it with all interior accessories running at the same time.
If one of the Big Red Wires gets shorted, it needs a fuse of the right size to protect it, so that it doesn't catch fire. Putting a fuse that's roughly double what it should be is a certain recipe for disaster.
It's EXTREMELY unlikely that both wires would get shorted at the same time. If their full-load current is 4x amps each, then a 50 or 60A fuse on each would be appropriate.
Just like your house breaker box: you might have a 200A main breaker, and breakers something like 100A electric heat, 50A range, 40A oven, 30A dryer, 30A A/C, 12 20A receptacle circuits, 10 15A lighting circuits, a 20A fridge, 20A microwave, 20A washing machine, and so on. WWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY less main breaker capacity than all the circuits downstream of it, all added up. Same deal here.
Additionally, the fusible links in the OE setup which you're functionally replicating, aren't there to protect the loads. Their ratings aren't based on the loads. They're based on the wire size and its burn-up current. Those fusible links are probably good for twice the combined "load" on each of them.
Use a single 80A fuse on the box's input to protect it. Then fuse each circuit to its wire rating, NOT based on its "load", to properly protect it, individually.
I'm going to use two separate fuses and outputs in my RTMR box for the A4 and G5 wires.
The only reason I'm asking about the amperage draw of A4 and G5 with all interior accessories on is to make sure that I don't exceed the maximum rating of the Bussmann RTMR box. Like you said, I'll fuse the box with an 80amp fuse.
