Wich is more expensive to build? a stoked 350, or a 400
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From: L.A.
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Wich is more expensive to build? a stoked 350, or a 400
I'm thinking or putting more cubic inches on my car and was wandering what would be more cost effective to build, a stroked 350(383), or a 400, since a guy I know offered me a 400 block. I'm thinking on using vortec heads, and the vortec TPI manifold. Ineed also to be able to pass smog test in California.
Please let me know what combination of big cubic in. motors and almost stock TPI, you have. Thanks.
Please let me know what combination of big cubic in. motors and almost stock TPI, you have. Thanks.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
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From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
the 383 will make u so happy. i have yet to talk to a guy that doesnt like his 383. on the other hand i have heard a lot of horror stories of people building the crap out of their 400 and still ran like a flaming bag of dog poo. i heard 400s pretty much suck
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I don't have to worry about what I "hear". I only concern myself with results, both my own and those of others.
I love my 400, there's nothing wrong with it that I've noticed. Of course mine was only in the car for about 11 years and 130,000 miles, so there might be something I haven't run across yet; although this is far from the first 400 I've ever had.
The 400 will be cheaper to build, because it's all off-the-shelf stuff. No special machine work like clearancing or any of that. The stock 400 bottom end will be fine for that setup, the TPI will protect it from stress. The larger 400 bore will of course give you all around more power than the smaller bore of the 383.
I love my 400, there's nothing wrong with it that I've noticed. Of course mine was only in the car for about 11 years and 130,000 miles, so there might be something I haven't run across yet; although this is far from the first 400 I've ever had.
The 400 will be cheaper to build, because it's all off-the-shelf stuff. No special machine work like clearancing or any of that. The stock 400 bottom end will be fine for that setup, the TPI will protect it from stress. The larger 400 bore will of course give you all around more power than the smaller bore of the 383.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 322
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From: Hanover, MA
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305-150/254 combo
Transmission: TH350 or T200
Axle/Gears: Srange 12 bolt; 5.14 or 5.38
My 400 sbc runs like a bear. It makes tons of torque and now has my 87 going thru the traps at 118 mph. Like any engine build up all parts chosen must work together.
If you do use the 400 set up remember to add the steam holes between the cylinders in the heads you use if they aren't already drilled out.
If you do use the 400 set up remember to add the steam holes between the cylinders in the heads you use if they aren't already drilled out.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: USA
Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
I once had a 74 Camaro that I put a 400 (406 bored 30 over). I built it myself. I used the 400 heads, raised slugs running about 9.5:1 comp ratio, solid Crane .525" cam, high rise Holley intake and a Holley 4150. It was backed by a TH400, 3200RPM TC, 3.90:1 rear gears, a 8.5" rear w/a mini spool.
The tires I had were Eagle ST's, 245/60/15 on heavy *** 15"x 8" Vette Ralley rims.(That car was cool. Sorry, no pics. Wish I had some.) And I don't know if you know, but the 74-76 Camaros were some of the heaviest made.
Anyway, do you like going 30 MPH, trompin' the go pedal and smoking the tires? I did, and I did!!
That was way before the days of me going to the track. I just wanted a Mustang eater. But I can tell you that Ed Ohrt had an '89 Stang which he put a Paxton 9psi on, ran 13.2 at the track on street tires, and I blew him away on the street.
Granted we both had major traction problems, but I also had my 100 lbs G/F with me, as well as my 250 lbs friend, and I weighed about 220 lbs then. He was by himself and maybe weighed 160 lbs. soak and wet.
But don't expect them to rev very well above 6000RPM. Even with the high rise intake and the solid cam, that car fell on it's face ~6200RPM. But it would still spin the tires a few times over into 2nd gear, AND there was no shift kit in the tranny.
I say build the 400. They're not as popular as the 350, so there are a few things to learn about them. But after you build it, save money for gas and tires.
Mine was a 3rd car, so I didn't have to much to worry about.
AJ
OH... One more thing. Even with the 400 heads which had the proper coolant passages/steam holes, that sucker still got hot. Anytime I stopped and shut it off, it peed all over. Mainly due to the way I revved the hell out of it.
The tires I had were Eagle ST's, 245/60/15 on heavy *** 15"x 8" Vette Ralley rims.(That car was cool. Sorry, no pics. Wish I had some.) And I don't know if you know, but the 74-76 Camaros were some of the heaviest made.
Anyway, do you like going 30 MPH, trompin' the go pedal and smoking the tires? I did, and I did!!
That was way before the days of me going to the track. I just wanted a Mustang eater. But I can tell you that Ed Ohrt had an '89 Stang which he put a Paxton 9psi on, ran 13.2 at the track on street tires, and I blew him away on the street.Granted we both had major traction problems, but I also had my 100 lbs G/F with me, as well as my 250 lbs friend, and I weighed about 220 lbs then. He was by himself and maybe weighed 160 lbs. soak and wet.
But don't expect them to rev very well above 6000RPM. Even with the high rise intake and the solid cam, that car fell on it's face ~6200RPM. But it would still spin the tires a few times over into 2nd gear, AND there was no shift kit in the tranny.
I say build the 400. They're not as popular as the 350, so there are a few things to learn about them. But after you build it, save money for gas and tires.
Mine was a 3rd car, so I didn't have to much to worry about.AJ
OH... One more thing. Even with the 400 heads which had the proper coolant passages/steam holes, that sucker still got hot. Anytime I stopped and shut it off, it peed all over. Mainly due to the way I revved the hell out of it.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,355
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From: MN
Car: 2009 Pontiac G8 GXP
Engine: LS3
Transmission: 6L80E
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I have a 406 in my 88 GTA...It is a great engine.
As for the overheating issues...It does run a bit hotter than your run of the mill 350. You don't need to do major things to upgrade the cooling system however...simply use a 170* thermostat and be prepared to tune it...simply because any performance V8 will need to be tuned to pass emissions, especially if you are on some kind of time table.
Modding a 406 is for the most part, just like modding a 350, except for the steam holes and the externally balanced flywheel/balancer. Don't worry about it.
As for the overheating issues...It does run a bit hotter than your run of the mill 350. You don't need to do major things to upgrade the cooling system however...simply use a 170* thermostat and be prepared to tune it...simply because any performance V8 will need to be tuned to pass emissions, especially if you are on some kind of time table.
Modding a 406 is for the most part, just like modding a 350, except for the steam holes and the externally balanced flywheel/balancer. Don't worry about it.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 322
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From: Hanover, MA
Car: Camaro
Engine: 305-150/254 combo
Transmission: TH350 or T200
Axle/Gears: Srange 12 bolt; 5.14 or 5.38
When I was still street driving mine it used to run too cool. I used a stock V8 radiator with the lower air deflector, 160* t-stat and a Wieand aluminum water pump. On cooler days it ran so cool that the temp would spike due to the t-stat closing. I had to gut out the t-stat and just use it as a restrictor. Even on the hottest days it never had an issue with high temps.
The heads I use are an old set of 1966 461 castings that were reworked about 15 years ago with port and pocket work etc. I did drill out the steam holes in them when I first built this motor 4 years ago. It spent 2 years of almost daily driving before I decided to just race it.
Definately go for the 400 after all; There's no replacement for displacement!
The heads I use are an old set of 1966 461 castings that were reworked about 15 years ago with port and pocket work etc. I did drill out the steam holes in them when I first built this motor 4 years ago. It spent 2 years of almost daily driving before I decided to just race it.
Definately go for the 400 after all; There's no replacement for displacement!
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Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 406
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From: L.A.
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 4 speed Automatic
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Thanks to everyone for your help.
I think I'm going to get that 400 block, and wait to get some $$ to get it rebuilt. I'm sure some ??'s will pup along the way, so, I'll be asking for your advise when the time comes. Thanks, later.
I think I'm going to get that 400 block, and wait to get some $$ to get it rebuilt. I'm sure some ??'s will pup along the way, so, I'll be asking for your advise when the time comes. Thanks, later.
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