LT1 shop manual ****ANYBODY*****
#1
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
LT1 shop manual ****ANYBODY*****
Guys I need help BAD, my car is dead in the driveway.
It cranks but there's no spark, no fuel.
anybody has the shop manual for LT1 ??? and could scan sheet of section 6E3 ??? "Engine cranks but will not start" ????
I checked almost everything and I just don't know what to look for anymore, I don't think it's a vats issue altought I'm doing 1 last test tonight.
Thanks
It cranks but there's no spark, no fuel.
anybody has the shop manual for LT1 ??? and could scan sheet of section 6E3 ??? "Engine cranks but will not start" ????
I checked almost everything and I just don't know what to look for anymore, I don't think it's a vats issue altought I'm doing 1 last test tonight.
Thanks
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Sure 97 is the last year of camaro'S lt1 , Can you scan or fax me the section where is says:
"engine cranks but will not start" and "no spark"
Thanks , please email it to me at
mathieuco@hotmail.com
"engine cranks but will not start" and "no spark"
Thanks , please email it to me at
mathieuco@hotmail.com
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Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
Hey Matt....My firend Brett JUST ran into the same problem. We couldn't figure it out at all, cuz everything was perfect. It turned out the small wiring harness that goes from the optispark and plugs into the main haness started to corrode slightly at the opti end and the opti wasn't getting signal to fire. We made sure that wiring harness was making good contact to the pins of the optispark and cleaned 'em up with electrical contact cleaner, scraped off whatever corrosion we saw, and then plugged it back in. Boom, fired right over. Check that for yourselves. The ECM won't let the car fire over if it's not getting a reponse from the opti.
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Ok got an update, wired my ses light properly and also my aldl connector.
Now it's trowing code 46 ....
Which is VATS ALERT, the Haynes manual says " Check for faulty circuit from ignition switch to theft deterrent modem or ECM/PCM"
I have check all the connections, there's
bat power, ignition power, starter enable relay feed, resistence is ok, fuel enable signal, I don't know how to test it, and I checked also ground, it's good ...
I also checked all the ignitions power feeds, and all bat feeds to ECM, nothings wrong
does that look like a faulty VATS ???
Now it's trowing code 46 ....
Which is VATS ALERT, the Haynes manual says " Check for faulty circuit from ignition switch to theft deterrent modem or ECM/PCM"
I have check all the connections, there's
bat power, ignition power, starter enable relay feed, resistence is ok, fuel enable signal, I don't know how to test it, and I checked also ground, it's good ...
I also checked all the ignitions power feeds, and all bat feeds to ECM, nothings wrong
does that look like a faulty VATS ???
#11
mat89RS, sorry but I still have not gotten my scanner up and running...
According to the manuel.,
"If the engine cranks but doesn't start, it indicates that the portion of the decoder module which generates the signal to the ECM is not operating or CKT 229 (VAT to ECM) is open or shorted to ground."
The section goes on to say "if the decoder module is found to be OK, as determined from Section 8A, the ECM may be at fault, that this is not likely condition.
Last, the section says "if DTC 46 is stored, and the engine will not crantk, it indicates that there is a PASS-Key probblem or an incorrect key or starting procedure is being used."
Summing that mouth-full up... If the engine crank but does not start and you have a code 46 you need to 1. check for a open or short to ground in CKT 229, 2. Ensure you do not have a faulty pass key decoder module, 3. ensure you do not have a faulty ECM connection and 4. ensure your ECM is not faulty.
CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Hollow if this information is of no use and I need to send you information from the 8A and 9D section of the BIG BOOK.
mt
According to the manuel.,
"If the engine cranks but doesn't start, it indicates that the portion of the decoder module which generates the signal to the ECM is not operating or CKT 229 (VAT to ECM) is open or shorted to ground."
The section goes on to say "if the decoder module is found to be OK, as determined from Section 8A, the ECM may be at fault, that this is not likely condition.
Last, the section says "if DTC 46 is stored, and the engine will not crantk, it indicates that there is a PASS-Key probblem or an incorrect key or starting procedure is being used."
Summing that mouth-full up... If the engine crank but does not start and you have a code 46 you need to 1. check for a open or short to ground in CKT 229, 2. Ensure you do not have a faulty pass key decoder module, 3. ensure you do not have a faulty ECM connection and 4. ensure your ECM is not faulty.
CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Hollow if this information is of no use and I need to send you information from the 8A and 9D section of the BIG BOOK.
mt
#12
Read some more... Tips from 9D-6 follows.
1. Buy a new key or GM tool J 35628-A (which most likely cost as much as a new pass key setup) to check old key.
2. Check for an open on "ECM IGN Fuse 5" or ECM BATT Fuse 4". Also check the I/P Fuse Block contacts for each fuse.
3. If the Starter Enable Relay must be replaced, also check CKT 6 to the Starter Solenoid for a possible short. A short may have caused the relay to fail.
4. Check the contacts to the key and the wires in the steering column, disconnect the connector near the base of the column. Jumper a DMV to measure the resistance back to the key at this connector while you turn the wheel and adjust the steering wheel. If there is any change or intermittent reading, replace the lock cylinder and the steering column wires that come with it.
5. Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside the insulation which could cause system failure but prove "GOOD" in a continuity/voltage check.
Done done...
hope this helps
mt
1. Buy a new key or GM tool J 35628-A (which most likely cost as much as a new pass key setup) to check old key.
2. Check for an open on "ECM IGN Fuse 5" or ECM BATT Fuse 4". Also check the I/P Fuse Block contacts for each fuse.
3. If the Starter Enable Relay must be replaced, also check CKT 6 to the Starter Solenoid for a possible short. A short may have caused the relay to fail.
4. Check the contacts to the key and the wires in the steering column, disconnect the connector near the base of the column. Jumper a DMV to measure the resistance back to the key at this connector while you turn the wheel and adjust the steering wheel. If there is any change or intermittent reading, replace the lock cylinder and the steering column wires that come with it.
5. Check for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside the insulation which could cause system failure but prove "GOOD" in a continuity/voltage check.
Done done...
hope this helps
mt
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Hey multi, thanks much.
I will do the test again today, you said :CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Are you sure it's like that for the 93 ??? because I remember checking resistence from passkey to ecm on a wire that was dk blu from passkey to dk blu at ecm .
You know when you read the codes, it says also code 12, which is I think , system pass. wouldn't that tell me that the ECM is "ok" ???
Thanks again
I will do the test again today, you said :CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Are you sure it's like that for the 93 ??? because I remember checking resistence from passkey to ecm on a wire that was dk blu from passkey to dk blu at ecm .
You know when you read the codes, it says also code 12, which is I think , system pass. wouldn't that tell me that the ECM is "ok" ???
Thanks again
#14
Originally posted by mat89RS
Hey multi, thanks much.
I will do the test again today, you said :CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Are you sure it's like that for the 93 ??? because I remember checking resistence from passkey to ecm on a wire that was dk blu from passkey to dk blu at ecm .
You know when you read the codes, it says also code 12, which is I think , system pass. wouldn't that tell me that the ECM is "ok" ???
Thanks again
Hey multi, thanks much.
I will do the test again today, you said :CKT 229 is the DK BLU wire running from the Pass Key Module to the GRY wire on pin 19 of the ECM.
Are you sure it's like that for the 93 ??? because I remember checking resistence from passkey to ecm on a wire that was dk blu from passkey to dk blu at ecm .
You know when you read the codes, it says also code 12, which is I think , system pass. wouldn't that tell me that the ECM is "ok" ???
Thanks again
#15
Here is some info on the relay that may be helpful.
Intermittent relay checks:
1. If the "SECURITY" indicator comes on for 5 seconds and then goes off the relay is most likely the problem. Check connections to relay, if OK, install a new relay.
2. If the "SECURITY" indicator remains "ON" past the 5 second bulb check when the vehicle will not crank, the relay is not the problem.
3. If it is necessary to turn the key to crank several times before the Engine will crank, the relay is probably intermittent. Check connections to relay, if OK, install a new relay.
Intermittent relay checks:
1. If the "SECURITY" indicator comes on for 5 seconds and then goes off the relay is most likely the problem. Check connections to relay, if OK, install a new relay.
2. If the "SECURITY" indicator remains "ON" past the 5 second bulb check when the vehicle will not crank, the relay is not the problem.
3. If it is necessary to turn the key to crank several times before the Engine will crank, the relay is probably intermittent. Check connections to relay, if OK, install a new relay.
#17
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Changed the DK blu wire, still doing the same thing, it wasn't shorted to ground.
I don't understand how half of the passkey works and the other doesn't...
I strongly believe it's a wire "poor connection" or something but I checked everything, it's all good from what I can see and test.
I don't understand how half of the passkey works and the other doesn't...
I strongly believe it's a wire "poor connection" or something but I checked everything, it's all good from what I can see and test.
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
The SES light stays "on" all the time during cranking.
Security light is "on" for 5 sec.
ECM trowing code 12,46,12
I have another chip from a 92 corvette, I'll try it tonight .
I'm not sure it will work since ther chip as been sitting beside a speaker for like 5 month !
Security light is "on" for 5 sec.
ECM trowing code 12,46,12
I have another chip from a 92 corvette, I'll try it tonight .
I'm not sure it will work since ther chip as been sitting beside a speaker for like 5 month !
#22
Originally posted by mat89RS
Is there a section in the big book that tells how to program a new passkey II ?? if so can you tell me the procedures.
thanks
Is there a section in the big book that tells how to program a new passkey II ?? if so can you tell me the procedures.
thanks
mat89RS, I will read the book tonight and send you the information. I think the PKII can only be programmed once and it somewhat of a automatic thing... I will find out and let you know.
mt
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Changed the passkey, still doing the same. I don't know what to do anymore ... it this point the charts says ECM might be at fault.
Multi what is chart 8A ?
Multi what is chart 8A ?
#27
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have you changed the VATS module? this sounds like what was happening to mine when I first got the engine installed. When you replace the VATS, it automatically learns the key code the first time you try to start it. once we replaced that module, it fired right up.
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Got the new VATS, motor cranks, vats is good .
ECM trowing code 46... Don't know why, don't know how to fix it, I've been trough the complete wiring harness, nothing is wrong. all ground are ok, all ecm bat (+) feed are ok, all bat(+) are ok, no wire touching each other, all vats wires ok, distributor ok, coil ok, spark plug wires ok, fuel pump ok
so, code 46, no spark, no fuel. service manual tells me it can be the ECM at fault, altought it's giving me code 12, which is system pass ... I just don't know anymore.
It said that vats would be at fault, replaced it for like 250$ CAD. still doing the same thing, cannot return electronic parts to dealer
ECM trowing code 46... Don't know why, don't know how to fix it, I've been trough the complete wiring harness, nothing is wrong. all ground are ok, all ecm bat (+) feed are ok, all bat(+) are ok, no wire touching each other, all vats wires ok, distributor ok, coil ok, spark plug wires ok, fuel pump ok
so, code 46, no spark, no fuel. service manual tells me it can be the ECM at fault, altought it's giving me code 12, which is system pass ... I just don't know anymore.
It said that vats would be at fault, replaced it for like 250$ CAD. still doing the same thing, cannot return electronic parts to dealer
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Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LT1 350
Transmission: 700-R4
VATS would still start your car for 3 seconds as I have seen. You seem to be having another problem...Either your ECM, or something to do with the opti.
#32
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the only reason I mentioned that is because the problems I had with VATs only allowed the engine to run for about a second, if even that, it would fire about once on each cylinder then die. but, hope you get it figured out
#33
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Multi , I didn't get anything by mail. did you sent it at @hp.com or hotmail ???
I don't have any spark what so ever, This engine does not even fire a bit.
I'm redoing the whole VATS connector again tonight, I now know that there's a problem with either the ECM connector where the ckt 229 plugs or a connector is loose because I'm getting different reading with the DVM after playing with the wires.
I'll let you guys know tommorow what I found.
thx again.
I don't have any spark what so ever, This engine does not even fire a bit.
I'm redoing the whole VATS connector again tonight, I now know that there's a problem with either the ECM connector where the ckt 229 plugs or a connector is loose because I'm getting different reading with the DVM after playing with the wires.
I'll let you guys know tommorow what I found.
thx again.
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Ok , solved the code 46 it was a bad connection, now it's giving me code 12,42,12,42 ...
42. Ignition Control Circuit
Check the wiring and connectors between the ignition module and the ECM/PCM. Replace the ignition module. * Replace the ECM/PCM.
I will do that tommorow morning.
42. Ignition Control Circuit
Check the wiring and connectors between the ignition module and the ECM/PCM. Replace the ignition module. * Replace the ECM/PCM.
I will do that tommorow morning.
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
All codes are codes are gone, now only 12, which is system pass.
Car still not starting, don't know why. Now changing coil and optispark.
Multi, What is chart c-4 ???
Car still not starting, don't know why. Now changing coil and optispark.
Multi, What is chart c-4 ???
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Engine: LT1
Transmission: 700r4
Not for now. thx. I'm waiting on a used optispark with 30K from a guy about 600 miles away from me . he's selling it for 110$US.
I'll give that a try.
I haven't had too much time to play in the car. The company I work for offered me a job in Toronto and it's keeping me busy and stressed out for now.
I'll give that a try.
I haven't had too much time to play in the car. The company I work for offered me a job in Toronto and it's keeping me busy and stressed out for now.
#44
The wiring harness is another topic. If you plan on using any other transmission (electronically controlled), besides the 4L60E (computer controlled), you'll have to get another wiring harness. The harness that I chose is from TPIS. I purchased their "Street Rod Harness". This harness allows you to use your stock 700R4 with the LT1. It also allows you to get rid of the emissions equipment if you choose (Air Pump, etc.). Howell Wiring makes TPIS's harness. It's very well fabricated. Each connector is the same color as stock, and has a little tag on it telling what it is. All of the wires are covered in a mesh like covering that is more flexible than the stock plastic tubing, making it very easy to work with. They range in price from w/o 4L60E to w/ 4L60E. Also, once you get a hold of an engine with computer, you'll have to have the Vehicle Anti-Theft System removed from the computer. The V.A.T.S. prevent the easy install of a possibly stolen computer/engine combo. It cost me to have TPIS do it for me. One thing that you'll need, that I didn't know about when I tried installing the harness, is that you'll need the connector and wire extension for the D.T.I.S. (Distributor to just about the passenger side manifold), sorry I forgot what exactly D.T.I.S. stands for. I just ended up taking it off the factory harness, I thought the harness was missing something, but I was wrong. Anyways
#50
I would like to know what was wrong also. Was it the opti? I mean you some strange patterns happening from a diag prospective.. What was the deal?
Glad you got her back on-line:lala:
mt
Glad you got her back on-line:lala:
mt