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'75 Monte 350 in '88 TA?

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Old Sep 6, 2002 | 06:49 PM
  #1  
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From: ATX
Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
'75 Monte 350 in '88 TA?

Well, I think that pretty much says it all. I can get a free 350 from a '75 Monte Carlo, and I was just wondering what, if anything, could be used off my LO3? Thanks, I'll probably have more questions in the future, but thanks in advance.
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 03:11 AM
  #2  
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Your 305 probably makes more horsepower than that old 350! If you're planning on just dropping it in, you'll probably be disappointed. If you're going to rebuild it, that's another story. You'll want flat-top pistons and some better heads. Vortecs are the cheapest and best for the price. You'll need a much better cam, too. And either headers or the 350 manifolds...if they'll fit into your engine bay. Other than that, you can probably bolt up most of your other sensors and parts just fine. use the '88's intake and TBI/TPI so you can keep your computer happy. If you go with Vortec heads, you'll either need the accompanying manifold from a Chevy truck '96 or newer or a special aftermarket manifold made for Vortec heads. None of this is cheap, but it should be a good low-buck way to get a 350 into your engine compartment.

Have fun!
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 10:35 AM
  #3  
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From: ATX
Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
Thanks, I probably should've been more specific. I'm gonna get the 350. It has a 2 barrell intake, so I'll probably get the TBI to Carb manifold adaptor, and get the higher capacity TBI from Holley. Are there any good heads that will fit the older style intakes? Also, this will be my daily driver, so gas mileage is an issue too. I currently have an auto w/overdrive, and hope to keep it, for $$ reasons. I'll probably gt shorty headers too. What kind of power do ya'll think I'll have with this combo? Any suggestions will be welcome!
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 11:18 AM
  #4  
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Well, IIRC that 350 made 165 HP stock, and your 305 makes 170 HP stock.... you do the math.

All good heads fit the older style intakes. Only a few good heads fit the newer ones.

If you want to make power out of that 350, you need to take it apart and throw away the pistons, heads, cam, and intake. The only parts you would want to keep are the block, the crank, and the rods; and you'd only keep the rotating parts if you intend to kep the RPMs below 6000 or so (which TBI will effectively protect you from exceeding anyway). You need to not use any of your 305 stuff (anything TBI, or its intake, or its exhaust system, or its heads) because it will choke a 350 even worse than it already chokes your 305.

If you do what you're saying, your car will be slower and will use more gas. It is not a good plan.

My guess would be that if you took that crap long block and put your TBI on it, you would get back up to the same HP as the stock 305 by putting the headers on it; and it will use about 20% more gas than the 305. If you use the stock 2-barrel 350 intake, I doubt you will even get that much power out of it.
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Old Sep 7, 2002 | 10:06 PM
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From: ATX
Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
Ok, so what should I do then? I can get this 350 for free, and I'd hate to walk away from a deal like that! And I'm getting it from my uncle and he know cars. He's got quite a few engines and parts laying around, and more that he can get a hold of. What should I do? Many have mentioned that the TBI sucks. I'm fine with it now, on my 305. But with this 350, I want to make a good deal of power, as much as I need on the street. Should I dump the TBI, and go for a carb? How bad would that mess up the computer? Thanks, and I know I'll have more questions. I just want to develop a good plan before I do anything.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 03:33 AM
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How much more specific can we be? That old weezer engine is a product of the early days of emissions control. Both of us who replied to you have told you the same thing. The block and crank are about all you can salvage from a '70s engine. The heads suck, the cam sucks, the intake sucks, the exhaust sucks.
Free is only good to a point. I can send you a box of dog crap for free to and then you'll have two useless things in your yard, that engine and the box of crap. Just wait. If your uncle can get you engines, ask for one from a newer car, like a 350 from a '88 Camaro!
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 10:56 AM
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From: ATX
Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
Lol Alohamike! That's true. I wan't planning on dropping the engine in as is anyway. So, if I got the Performer EPS intake manifold, along with the higher capacity TBI unit, shorty headers, I'd also like to have it bored out to a 355. So, new pistons would be in order too, since this will be my daily driver, then flat-top pistons would be in order. So, should I get the heads reworked, or get new ones? Would an L-82 Corvette cam work good for this combo? Thanks again.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 12:29 PM
  #8  
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You need to ditch the heads, no question about that. If you're going to stick with junkyard heads of some sort, try to find some iron L98 heads, or some old double-hump heads with bolt holes. Any motor you build with those 882s will be a a disappointment.

Same goes for the L82 cam. Nobody cares that it was used in Corvettes, banish that whole starry-eyed romanticism from your thought process, it will lead you to stupidity. No magical properties just mystically jump out of the fiberglass and imbue themselves into a moving part with the same part # as something that was wrapped in glass. That cam is a turd no matter what chassis it came in. Get a real, good, aftermarket one from a reputable cam company. Cams all cost so close to the same, what is it, a $20 spread from the cheapest to the best?, why risk disappointment at the end of a $2000 over cheaping out on $20. I'd recommend one of the Comp "computer compatible" ones, in particular their 12-402-4 or 12-404-4, http://www.competitioncams.com/catalog/082_083.html about halfway down the page.

I think you're failing to understand the fundamental reality of building a motor, which I understand how you can do that, it's an easy mistake for a first-time builder to make. By the time this motor is built, in the car, and running right, I will guarantee you that you will have at least $2500 in the project, no matter whether the core was free or not. The more you change, the more it will cost. You're going to have to do something about the exhaust system for instance, that's $600 right there, easy. Compare that to the value of that "free" core: it would cost you $200 tops at the junkyard. It doesn't matter if it's free, the core is not where the money is in a motor swap!!! It's in the machine work, all the little parts that aren't the "big ticket items" like bolts, fluids, special tools, a carb, etc. etc. etc.; most first-time builders think that once they have a core motor and a set of pistons and rings and bearings, they're mostly through spending money. That's not the way it is! If you approach it with that attitude, and try to cut corners on all the things that really matter and which ultimately determine the outcome of the project, you will end up with a slow, oil-burning, unreliable pig; in other words, exactly what you're trying to avoid.

Don't think of boring the block as a "mod". You're not "boring it out to a 355", you're doing scheduled routine maintenance on a worn-out core. It's really still a 350. If it doesn't need boring, don't bore it; if it does, then do it. Definitely get flat-top pistons either way. But either way, it's still really a 350, just a std bore one or a .030" over one.

I would not recommend buying anything TBI-specific, like an intake. More than likely, you'll end up being unable to ever get it to run right with TBI and you'll end up ditching it like everyody else. Avoid sinking money into stuff that stands a high probability of ending up in the garbage can.
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Old Sep 8, 2002 | 04:54 PM
  #9  
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Not to take all the fun out of your plans I'll say this: if you really want to build an engine for the experience spending some quality time with your uncle, go for it. Sounds like you have access to a lot of parts and some experienced mechanical help.
Like RB said, you can go broke with the details of building an engine. Define what you want to do, figure out how much you think it's going to cost you...then double it. If you still want to do it and can afford it, you're a born-to-drive, do-it-yourself hotrodder.
On the other hand, you might look at the cost and decide you could just buy the engine you want for the same price or a little more, save the time it'll take you to do all the work, and just bolt it in without all the headaches and have a warranty, too.

best wishes
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Old Sep 9, 2002 | 08:23 PM
  #10  
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Car: Kitt
Engine: Classified
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser/4:11
Wow, thanks guys. I appreciate all the input! I think I'd like to build it up myself, for the most part. Mostly because, I'd like to see what all is being done to my engine, and how everything works. I was trying to avoid doing anything to the computer other than getting a chip burned after I'm done. I have a 305 TBI now, and I thought about a carb, but I'd like good gas mileage too. I'm planning on getting a Hooker cat back after the engine install. I want a stick, but should I stick with the 700R4, and just get a better stall converter? Any more suggestions?
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