cd90rs

Well I've been driving it for about a month now and everything is great. No problems what so ever. I still need to move around a couple things to make it look a little smoother. Also have a set of aluminum valve covers and breather to toss on it too. Now I just need to get into PCM programming so I can do it myself.

wm_sorg

Nice work. Any mods? Which version of the LT1 is it?

cd90rs

Stock 96 LT1/4L60E. EGR and AIR deleted.

Trans Am#5

What did you use for the throttle body to the mass air flow sensor? Where did you get it?

cd90rs

That is a 4" to 3 1/2" silicone adapter. I got it from Baker Precision . I tried to get a piece to match for the MAF to snorkel connection but when I got it the wall thickness was much more compaired to the throttle body piece and it will not bend.

Trans Am#5

Thanks for the link...I see they have good prices compared to other silicone hose places on the net.

theratdude64

I might sound stupid to all the other guys, but whats that bar over the engine?

lol

Momar

You put those on when the frame is to rusted and you are afraid it is going to fall in half. lol

Actually it is a strut tower brace. It ties the car together from side to side and gives you a bit steadier handling.

Ben

theratdude64

Thanks for explaining....

BTW, Very Nice Swap. I have a friend with a 94 LT1, Very fast car. Is it a super tight fit? In his, the sparkplugs take like 4 hours to replaced

Momar

It is not as hard to change the plugs in a thirden as a fourth gen. It gets easier the more of that crap you remove(especially the air pump and lines into the manifolds). The lt1 is the same size and shape as a normal small block chevy so it should be about like changing plugs on an origional v8 thirdgen. My plugs only take about half an hour(not LT1) because I have eliminated a bunch of the crap and I have headers so I can actually see the plugs. I have an LT1 in the garage though that will eventually take the spot of the motor that is in there now. I just havent decided how much time and money I want to put into it first.

Ben

theratdude64

On his, his sparkplug wires are hard to reach because of the headers, they are in the middle of the engine, you cant really access them from the top or bottom. The Passenger side takes twice as long to change....

Momar

His is an actual fourthgen though right? Fourthgens are a little tighter under the hood.

Ben

theratdude64

ya, very nice car too...

theratdude64

What does deleted mean?

Trans Am#5

Have you had your car tested for emissions since the swap? If so, what were the results?

cd90rs

Deleted, as in blocked off EGR and removed AIR pump. There are no emission tests here so couldn't tell you.

theratdude64

forget that! lol, I HATE emissions...

bingo

iTrader: (2)

How did you mount your computer, did you have to move anything? I was wondering because I haven't decided where to mount mine, and yours looks like it fits well where you have it.

theratdude64

Sorry if this isnt related, but Trans Am#5, I was on your site, and saw your painless wiring harness. In what ways are they painless lol? I need to replace mine, and I dont know where to go, any recomendations?

Thanks

Trans Am#5

Well...now you did it. I asked this same question a long time ago and got 20 different opinions. No one said to go with the Painless setup though. So, I tried them. I have no regrets using their product. Others will recommend other harnesses. I pretty much had the harness wired up in about 2 hours with help I really didn't need from a buddy. That was 2 hours of rough routing. After that, I changed it around a few times until I was satisfied. The pcm and interior wires are kind of just dangling there until I feel like messing around with that mainly because I'm going to redo the inside completely. What is not on the harness is your charging/cranking system. You will have to reuse those from your original harness. Also, you'll have to add in the wires from the oil pressure sensor, temp sensor and voltage will come when the charging system is hooked up properly. The only other thing that'll need to be hooked up is the speedo. I haven't played with that yet, but I intend to soon. The only thing I should have done was get the longer harness(I got standard length) so I could mount the pcm a little higher up in the stock GM location in the passenger side of the dash. It will fit up there now, just a little tightly. If I did it again, I would purchase there harness again. I did call tech support once before I even got everything hooked up and they were helpful and prompt on the phone. Although, If I would have started wiring everything instead of calling before I did that, I would have answered my own question. There are other companies like Speartech and Howell who are also supposed to be really good, but thats only going by what I have heard. Still others will recommend sitting down and rewiring your stock harness and the one from the motor. This saves money but adds time to you being able to get in turn the key and hit the gas. In fact, I was really suprised to turn the key and the car starting so nicely after the wiring. I really had no major problems in that respect. I suggest to anyone doing one of these swaps to change the plugs, opti-spark, water pump and get new o2 sensors. Try and use GM stuff. I even changed the coil, oil pressure sending unit, coolant sensor in the water pump(pcm related). This is cheap insurance and much easier to do with the motor out. I definitely owe a lot to Kandied, mat89rs(?), momar and many others who have helped answer questions before I even got a chance to ask them because they were first in doing this. If you have a problem, search first and if that doesn't work, just ask. There are many people here to help. Good luck.

Trans Am#5

Hey CD...I just ordered a cable and plan to also try and tune my PCM. Keep me posted and maybe we can help each other out.

theratdude64

The alternator is part of the charging right? if so, My alternator wire is MELTED, and the rest of the harness is either melted or really brittlel, cracking ect...

The wiring in the dash is fine, all I need is engine wiring, is there a way to keep it the way it is in the dash and splice it into the main or something?

THanks for helping Trans Am#5 !

Momar

I answer any questions that I can, but I have not done the swap yet myself. I have done a ton of research though. We will be swapping one into a friends 86 Iroc this summer, and then I also have one that I will swap in sometime down the line. I have a decent motor in mine, and am still trying to decide what to do to mine. I could probably make good power just by porting the heads/intakee, and putting a good cam in it. I already have headers, and exhaust. I have been seriously considering going with a new forged rotating assembly, and maybe even a supercharger, but I dont make that much money so if I did all that I would be saving for a long time, and I havent decided if I want to wait or just do less now.

I have however in the mean time stolen some parts from the LT1. I now have a 140 amp alternator, heated oxygen sensor and a LT1 starter on my 350. lol.

Ben

Trans Am#5

It probably isn't melted all the way to where it goes into the car....or is it? Did you trace it back all the way to the bulk head connector to the right of the brake booster? If it's better as it goes to this....the best thing to do would be to splice it somewhere as close to that as possible. There are 2 looms coming from this large connecter at the firewall. I believe the one on the left(towards the passenger side technically) is for the lights and misc. other things that you won't even have to touch. The other on the right(towards the driver side) is where everything gets spliced. This is where the two thicker red wires that need power all the time are. This is also where all the gauge sensor wires and purple cranking wire are for the starter is. Also, the white Tach wire is here for the gauge. There were only about maybe 4 or 5 wires left over out of this side that I haven't cut out of the car yet until I have a chance to see what they are all for. I'm sure two are for the A/C and possibly the cruise control. I plan to use both but am not really too worried yet about those. I believe one is for the original VSS as well. I don't have a scanner but I'll see what I can do about posting a pic of this bulk head connector.