Engine Swap Everything about swapping an engine into your Third Gen.....be it V6, V8, LTX/LSX, crate engine, etc. Pictures, questions, answers, and work logs.

First success

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Old Jun 28, 2003 | 03:43 PM
  #1  
Uwe 1985-IROC's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 84
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From: Durmersheim / Germany
Car: 1985 IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: TH700-R4
First success

Hi to everybody !!!
After a month of hard work I finished my engine-swap today. I swapped a 305 for a 350 with the TPI-stuff bolt on. A new knocksensor, larger injectors, new water pump, AFPR ( set at 44 PSI at the moment ). As I started my car today, it fired immediately and ran quite smooth. After 10 minutes of idling, I saw some oil dropping on the garage-floor ( my father wasn´t very happy about ) and shut the engine of. After that, I hardly couldn´t start my car any more, and I burned my hands because of a very hot oilpan and starter.
Now my question: Is it normal for a new rebuild engine ( new crankshaft, new pistons with rings ) to run so hot at the initial start ? - I have the same headers installed as on my previous 305. My water temperature doesn´t exceed 220 degrees an my oil-pressure shows more than 60 PSI ( my gauge ends at 60 PSI ).
Thanks in advance,
Uwe
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 12:51 AM
  #2  
Air_Adam's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Congrats on a successful swap

I haven't seen myself how a rebuilt engine behaves upon first firing, but I wouldn't be too surprised to see that it runs a little hot during initial break in, because everything is starting to 'settle-in', but it should not get excessivly hot. Just a little warmer than normal. After everything seems to have "made itself at home", the temp should level out.

Your oil pressure seems a little too high, if its off guage at 60psi. A Chevy small block shouldn't ever run over 65psi because it just whips more air into the lube system. 60-65psi is about the limit.

Also.. did you remember to douse all of the parts that wear quickly (like the camshaft) with either motor oil or break-in lube? If not, this could be the reason it doesn't want to start.. your cam may be worn.

A hot oil pan isn't a problem. It has hot oil in it, and the oil can get VERY hot inside an engine. Thats the reason that the L98 cars had the oil cooler.

How close are your headers to your starter? That, and possibly the hot pan, are the only reasons I can think of that would heat up a starter like that. Unless its been turning the motor for quite a while without a break. Thats the reason you aren't supposed to keep the starter turning constantly for more that about 20 seconds at a time.

How this helps

Last edited by Air_Adam; Jun 29, 2003 at 12:55 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 04:48 AM
  #3  
Uwe 1985-IROC's Avatar
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Junior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 84
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From: Durmersheim / Germany
Car: 1985 IROC-Z28
Engine: TPI 350
Transmission: TH700-R4
Hi Adam,
thanks for your reply. I got the engine from a professional engine rebuilder. I saw that the lifters were lubricated with a breakin-fluid, therefore I think my cam will be ok. My starter is very close to my headers an is even contacting the oilpan ( Could this be the hot-starting-problem ? ). Perhaps I should get a heatshield for the solenoid or a smaller starter ?
Another problem occured : Because I installed new motor-mounts, my steering-shaft is blocked by the header. Yeah, it would have be nice, to start the engine and get a fat smile on your face ...
Uwe
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Old Jun 29, 2003 | 11:26 PM
  #4  
Twilightoptics's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,170
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From: Seattle, Washington
Car: '87 IROC-Z/'82 RX7
Engine: SBC 355/1.1L Rotary
Transmission: T56/5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 4.33/3.93
You may be grounding/shorting out the oil pressure gauge wire, which will Peg the neddle, giving you an inaccurate reading of infinate!

Not sure about the heat of a rebuild, but is this a roller or a flat tappet engine?

If it's a flat tappet, the moment you get it running and in somewhat descent timing, you need to run the engine at variable RPM from 1400-2000rpm for no less than 15-20 min.

If you dont, the lifters wont spin on the lobe of the cam correctly and you can grid the lobe of the cam off.

If it's really hot, it might be that your T-stat is stuck, did you add water to it? Are your fans working properly? etc
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