i know there are a few people on here that have done the swap and i was wondering what u guys did as far as fuel lines are concerned? is there a fitting where u can unscrew the rubber hoses,screw a fitting on or somethin similar to that?


any kinda of hints,links,part numbers,etc lol would be great,thanx in advance

i took the engine out and everything apart because i got the long block built up while i was screwing around with wiring. engine wise it pretty much manifold and carb on top. i used AN fitting out the carb lines and used the braded stainless lines to the tank. welded a sump on the tank to connect the lines made it very easy, just screw the line into the sump. i didnt run return lines and i took all the emo crap out (canister, smog pump etc.) i ditched the whole comp and pulled the dummy light out. pulled most relays including the fan relay which i didnt realize untill after the fact, BUT im putting in aftermarket fans so it was no big deal. just have to wire up a toggle switch. i also used an MSD box which im unsure you need but like i said, i cut all wires and started fresh. i would get the MSD box if your going carb though. dont know how much your willing to spend but i did a total makeover on the car and played stuff by ear as i went along, buying things i didnt know i needed till i got to them. you know what kind of carb your going to use? you have auto or stick?

im using a 750 Edelbrock carb and it has a 700-R4 auto in it. i dont want to run a new line all the way back to the tank...im using the factory fuel lines from the fuel injection (TPI) on the drivers fender well. i was just wonderin if some1 found a fitting that screwed onto the factory metal line and then i could put a braided fuel line on the other side....but i guess not. im putting a Mallory F.P.R. on it and im gonna be using the factory return line as well.

thanks for the help

There are fittings to adapt the factory o-ring seal fuel lines to AN fittings. I saw them in a magazine article once, but I'm not sure who makes them...

I would drop the tank and remove the factory pump. Use a pump for a carb application with an electric fuel pump. The factory EFI pump will put out way too much pressure for a carb. You could regulate the pressure way down, but this will be hard on the pump and could cause it to fail. An adjustable regulator is still a good idea, but just get one designed for a carb application.

You will need a new distributor too, because even the old style TPI unit that has advance weights still doesn't have vaccum advance, and can't really be run properly without a computer. Drop in an old style HEI and hook up the factory power and tach wires and it will work fine.

When I converted over to Carb, I simply re-used the existing fuel lines up to the part where that bracket bolts to the FRONT of the manifold (just under the water neck). I then 'cut' my stock fuel rail (a little after where it connects to the bracket just mentioned above, bolted in the front of the intake manifold.... about 4-5 inches worth of excess).

From there, I drilled my stock TPI alternator bracket, then bolted my Mallory AFPR onto the back of it. Using a 'Flare' gun (tool), I flared the ends (beginning) of the fuel rail lines (if you do it this way, don't forget to install the fittings onto the lines first.... cuz once it's flared, they won't go on. One fuel line is 3/8's, and the other is 5/16's), then simply connect it to the AFPR, then to the Carb. Quite easy, and it looks factory. If I can get a picture up, I'll do so.

Also... I kept the stock TPI fuel pump. So long as you run a return line, the fuel pump will not burn out. Rememer, you're engine originally didn't burn more gas simply because it was fuel injected. You're only changing the delivery method into the combustion chambers, meaning.... the same fuel is getting dumped right back to the gas tank now, as it was with the fuel injectors. Trust me, it won't leak.

when you convert tpi to carb, you must change the pump. tpi requires much more psi then a carb does. you shouldnt be using a FI pump with a carb.

Lots of people on this board including myself are using the Mallory 3 port regulator to get the pressure down for use with a carb. I have had no problems in two years with this setup.

Earls makes the fittings to connect the GM fitting to an AN fitting. The part numbers are 9894DBH for the return, and 9894DBJ for the feed. Both are -6AN male, so you need appropriate AN fittings to hook up to that. Probably the easiest way IMO is to get some 'push on' fittings in 6AN. Both Earls and Aeroquip make these. This will allow you to connect a 3/8" rubber hose with a clamp. Or you could go with the steel braided stuff and related fittings.

Mallory designed a replacement AFPR for the #4309. After switching over to this piece, it completely eliminated the occassional "spike" on my fuel gauge. Not that the #4309 didn't serve me well, it definitely did.... but this piece its much better.



http://www.centuryperformance.com/de...t_id=MAL-4307m