Just amke srue, whatever block you use, you get the right assembly. i.e 1 or 2 peice rear main. And now forget about the vortec design intake if you are gettin trick flows, you can go conventional and get yourself a good intake. And i forgot, with that cam, you may want to stick with a performer rpm, becasue that cam is not made for high rpm. You will appreciate yourself i you get it balenced. And you will also need a small base circle cam. Call up, your selected cam manufacture and talk to them on a personal basis, have your combo all ready, and they will pick you the best cam for your application.

 

i like the Comp Cams Xtreme Energy cams, so i think im gonna call them up and see what they think, i know you all said forget desktop dyno but it puts out great numbers. I'm gonna use a newer block with the one piece rear main seal. and probably the edelbrock rpm air gap intake. im reading the chevy high performance book now and it basically gave me something along the lines of what i started with for a 350?

 

alright i got my 350 roller block yesterday from a fellow tgo member for a good price. what should i expect machine work to cost me for clearancing the block boring honing degreasing and magnafluxing? im saving up for the parts now, my cousin blueprints and balances engines (granted i've only met him once) but he'll give me a deal. he said if i give him my parts he'll blueprint the build up and balance the engine for $500 is that good?

 

alright the block doesn't have the main caps am i screwed? i was attempting a budget buildup but whats the price for this usually run?

 

your BLOCK MUST HAVE the main caps custom fitted to the block and the block then must be line bored and honed to insure the crankshaft centerline diamensions are correct, if you dont have the blocks main caps that were orriginally fitted and bored on that block you will need to get new main caps refitted, since the cost of new SPLAYED 4 BOLT main caps is not that much greater than factory 2 bolt main caps, and almost all the machine work costs will be similar you might want to go the extra money and get those installed, but at this point , on a budget built I think youll find that getting a differant block thats COMPLETE WITH THE CORRECT CAPS ALREADY INSTALLED, is FAR CHEAPER, anyone that SOLD YOU A BLOCK MINUS MAIN CAPS should have given you a VERY LOW price because Im sure they knew youll need to spend HUNDEREDS OF DOLLARS TO GET NEW MAIN CAPS CORRECTLY FITTED, if you payed for a good functional 350 block and did not get a sever discount for the missing caps ,I think you should return it for a refund, as its very expensive to fit new caps compared to the average price of a standard rebuildable block

theres MILLIONS of guys running 350 two bolt blocks with few problems,you can normally find 350 chevy blocks at machine shops fairly cheaply, if your block has only two bolt caps and you want greater strength,you have two options, you can add ARP studs if you want to increase the caps holding strength about 30%-50% or you can convert that two bolt block to splayed 4 bolt caps if your really concerned , but unless your over about 450hp I would not be even slightly worried
http://www.flatlanderracing.com/callies_maincaps.html

http://www.flatlanderracing.com/maincaps_oliver.html
ARP ,two bolt main cap bolts will work ok at the 450hp level
but heres some splayed caps, if your interested,
be aware that your going to spend between $400-$550 in most machine shops by the time you figure on the $200 for the caps themselfs and added to the machine work expense, to get them correctly installed on a 2 bolt block,in your case its more than likely wasted money, but if you feel better knowing they are there...... well all I can say is I bite the bullet and get them installed simply because with everyones plans changing over time and a shot of nitrous as a future option in most high performance engines they add a good deal of strength
[b] this is a great example of project cost creap, yes youll more than likely NEVER use the extra strength, and yes its more than likely wasted money, but many of us just look at it and say, hell, its a good investment in the bottom end strength... and Ill feel better knowing their there!, the money would be better spent in almost every case on better quality rods in most cases simply because rods and rod bolts fail far more often than caps do! its almost insane in most cases to go to the expense of splayed caps on the block if your still running stock connecting rods, invest in good quality (H) style rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts and a STEEL CRANK before worrying about SPLAYED MAIN CAPS

http://www.racenet.net/eng/arp-main-studs.php HERE the STUDS that should be used to replace the stock main cap bolts, they ate far stronger, ... don,t forget a good MILODON windage screen and a high volume oil pan, they are very important to insuring long engine life at high rpm levels

 

so basically your saying im screwed unless i get a different block with the caps already with it. Ok theres a guy at work looking for a 350 block i wonder if he would want to buy it. that way i didnt lose any money and i can put that towards another block.

 

A buddy of mine's uncle has a machine shop, and he said that he would line bore and hone my main caps, clearance the block, magnaflux, degrease, bore and hone the piston walls all for $300 - $350 WHAT A STEAL!!!! he built the engine my friend has in his monte and it runs excellent! so im doing this as soon as i get my tax return back, and get my joengblood hood at the same time.

 

alright about getting a new crank. should i get one that is internally balanced or externally balanced? I'll be running a t-56. I found an eagle crank for the 383 for 500.00 that is internally balanced. and also what are chamfered bearings? where would be a good place to get a rear cap and a front cap? i looked on ebay but couldnt find any

 

I have a 305 TBI in my 1991 RS and am looking to get a 350 built for Fuel Injection swapped. What would I have to do to get my car smog legal in California? Any advice is always greatly appreciated!

 

go through the process of registering your engine swap. go through the epa. thats how we do it here in ohio, go to any over the testing stations and they should be able to give you a number to the epa and they can send you the appropriate information for the engine swap