has any one actually done the v8-v6 swap?
has any one actually done the v8-v6 swap?
becouse getting information is a bitch!.. i have a 90 3.1 and im trying to figure out how im going to get an alternater working>?
i have the belt serpintine systems from the mid 80's that didnt have a tenchiner pully on them. the alternator is how you tightened the belt.
now that is said the alternator that on the car now has a plug in on the top of it. what's this plug for and do i need to rewire it? can i buy one of those one wire alternators. if so how do you wire it. help!!!!!!
i have the belt serpintine systems from the mid 80's that didnt have a tenchiner pully on them. the alternator is how you tightened the belt.
now that is said the alternator that on the car now has a plug in on the top of it. what's this plug for and do i need to rewire it? can i buy one of those one wire alternators. if so how do you wire it. help!!!!!!
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 138
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From: Derby, NY, 14047
Car: 71 Skylark
Engine: BBB-430
Transmission: M20
I have swapped out the 60* for an 8. it is very easy.... with the exception of having to change the motor mounts, which requirs droppoing the a-arms. Have fun with that. Oh, you need a new tranny too-even if you have a t-5. AS far as engine wiring is concerned it couldn't be easier. I am assuming you are swapping to a carb. All the computer wiring comes out on the passenger side, while all teh engine wiring comes out on the driverside. When you pull the motor you will notice that they are 2 seperate harnesses. Wll you have to do is get the correct brackets to mount the new stly eGM alteranter- which you already have. Brackets from an 87 v8 carbed will be what you need. Then it is a simple plug in process. All you need is the bracket to mount the new style alterantor. Joe
wow your my hero. thanks.ya i already have a turbo 350 bilt 2800 stall and i have a carbed 350. can i get your e mail address so i can e mail you if i run into any other problems? also i though the last year of the carbs where 86? the brackes i have were from an 86! carbed. heres a pic of the alternator i have now!
thanks chris
thanks chris
Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Webster, MA
Car: 1982 Camaro Z28
Engine: Self-built 350
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/2800 Vigilante
Axle/Gears: Eaton 3.73 w/Moser axles
Originally posted by 430T/A
I have swapped out the 60* for an 8. it is very easy.... with the exception of having to change the motor mounts, which requirs droppoing the a-arms. Have fun with that.
I have swapped out the 60* for an 8. it is very easy.... with the exception of having to change the motor mounts, which requirs droppoing the a-arms. Have fun with that.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,965
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From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
first time i heard about dropping the a arms also
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
uhmmmm how could you drill and tap the fourth hole on the mounts???
that would be tapping into the side of the crossmember almost...
the v8 mounts are further forward than the v6 mounts....there should have been 3 holes more forwards to mount the v8 mounts into compared to the v6 mounts.
that would be tapping into the side of the crossmember almost...
the v8 mounts are further forward than the v6 mounts....there should have been 3 holes more forwards to mount the v8 mounts into compared to the v6 mounts.
Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 429
Likes: 2
From: Philadelphia,Pa
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: 400sb
Transmission: 700r4
ive done my ........
my mounts in a v8 car a swivel socket and a long extension is all you need and a lift is helpful too but you do not need to drop your a-arms to do it oh and the holes are there for v6-v8 and only 3 of the holes line up anyway
the plug ontop of the alt is for your gauge or idiot light (depends on what you have) the wire on the back goes to the battery as far as the bracket goe i have all my original brackets off my 83 305 on my 70 400sb
the plug ontop of the alt is for your gauge or idiot light (depends on what you have) the wire on the back goes to the battery as far as the bracket goe i have all my original brackets off my 83 305 on my 70 400sb
Last edited by Z28guy83; Jan 8, 2004 at 04:40 AM.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
I thought I had answered this question before. Did you ask in more than one place? Maybe the server dumped and my response never got posted (that's happened before).
The '86 & '87 belts were a combination of the flat multi-groove type for the alternator like used on serpentine systems, but tensioned by the alternator; the rest v-belts.
You can go one-wire, but the alternator is simple enough to wire properly. Just match the harness & alternator application. The V6 harness will have to be longer for a V8, but if you have a V8 donor car anyway, just use that harness.
Dropping the A-arms is a simple way to get complete access to the motor mount nuts. I question anyone that says they did a motor mount move/change in less than an hour if they didn't drop the A-arms. I'm not necessarily a particularly fast mechanic, but I don't think it's bragging to say I'm at least a smart one, and it took me more than a couple of hours to remove and reinstall the mounts. Later, after the engine was in, I decided I did need to change the V6 springs (even though they were new) to V8, and while those A-arms were down, those mount bolts were [i]so[i/] easy to get a wrench on...
The '86 & '87 belts were a combination of the flat multi-groove type for the alternator like used on serpentine systems, but tensioned by the alternator; the rest v-belts.
You can go one-wire, but the alternator is simple enough to wire properly. Just match the harness & alternator application. The V6 harness will have to be longer for a V8, but if you have a V8 donor car anyway, just use that harness.
Dropping the A-arms is a simple way to get complete access to the motor mount nuts. I question anyone that says they did a motor mount move/change in less than an hour if they didn't drop the A-arms. I'm not necessarily a particularly fast mechanic, but I don't think it's bragging to say I'm at least a smart one, and it took me more than a couple of hours to remove and reinstall the mounts. Later, after the engine was in, I decided I did need to change the V6 springs (even though they were new) to V8, and while those A-arms were down, those mount bolts were [i]so[i/] easy to get a wrench on...
it took me about 2-3 hours todo my motor mounts with out dropping the a-arms. dropping the a-arms makes it easier to get to the bolts, but after you figure in the time it takes to un-bolt everything needed to drop the a-arms, it probably will take about the same time
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Hello, Michael
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