Just finish order all my parts today for the SBC 409 and here its what is include in what I thought was going to be build with $2500.
SBC 400 on a Budget..."Yea Right"

SBC 408 PARTS and PRICES
MANUFACTURE DESCRIPTION PART# PRICE
AFR
Heads 195cc AFR-1036 $1,425.00
Price include
Springs Upgrade part #8033
(setup 130-140 seat 330-350 open)
Steam Holes Drilled part#1062

ARP
Main Studs ARP-234-5501 $51.95
Head Bolts ARP-134-3701 $58.95
Oil Pump Stud ARP-230-7002 $6.50
Oil Pump Shaft ARP-134-7901 $13.95
Fuel Pump Pushrod ARP-134-8701 $14.95
ARP Cam Bolt Kits ARP-134-1001 $3.95

CLEVITE
Main Bearing MS1038P $27.00
Rod Bearing 8-CB663P $27.00

CLOYES
True Roller Timing Chain CLO-9-3100 $60.09

CRANE
Energizer Roller Rocker CRN-11744-16 $132.50

EAGLE
H-Beam 6"Rods CRS6000B3D $335.09

EDELBROCK
Elite Air Cleaner EDL-4207 $49.88
Elite Valve Cover EDL-4249 $69.95

ELGIN Solid Lifters VT1992-16 $50.00

FEDERAL MOGUL
Cam Bearings 1235M $19.00

FEL-PRO
Head Gasket FPP-1014 (2x) $63.90
Intake Gasket FPP-1205 $13.95
Rear Main Seal Align Bored FPP-2909 $18.95

HOLLEY
Carburetors 750 Vac Sec HLY-0-3310S $249.95

LUNATI
Flat Tappet Mechanical LUN-280/284F10 $183.71

MILODON
Oil Pump Pick-Up Screen MIL-18311 $34.95
Milodon Street/Strip Oil Pans MIL-30900 $123.49
Diamond Stripper Windage Tray MIL-32250 $74.95
Lifter Valley Screen Kits MIL-23150 $15.95
Oil Pan Baffles MIL-32500 $5.25

MELLING
Oil Pump MEL-M55 $15.95

MR. GASKET
Oil Pump High Press Spring MRG-26 $3.95

PIONEER
Brass Freeze Plugs SBC 400 $14.95
Harmonic Balancer PIO-872003 $95.88

SCAT
9000 Int. Bal. Crank 400-3750-6000 $222.50

SUMMIT
Fuel Pressure Guage SUM-800115 $19.95

WISECO
Pro Tru Forged Pistons PT020H4 (0.040) $419.00

PARTS TOTAL COST $3,922.99

Here is the engine machine work that has cost me $635.00
MACHINE SHOP WORK NEEDED PRICE
K&P MACHINE
Deck (.000) $150.00
Align Honed Mains $135.00
Tap Starter Bolt $30.00
Hone Finish Cylinders $60.00
Tap 3 Oil Holes $15.00
Install Deck Plugs $100.00
Bore w/ deck plates (.040) $120.00
Install Cam Bearings $25.00

Machine Shop TOTAL $635.00
Engine Parts: $3,922.99
TOTAL COST $4,557.99

Still have to mock the block up for clearance, get the rotating assembly balanced, and pistons mounted to rods. If I have fogotten any parts to complet this engine please let me know. I MIGHT CAN ASK THE WIFE FOR A LOAN.

 

if your spending all this money on the motor, why on earth didn't you get full floating pistons? seems silly to me.

 

Ive found no differance in length of service due to pin type. but ITS A fact full floating pins tend to be installed in MUCH BETTER QUALITY pistons than pressed pins. I can,t remember ever seeing pressed pins in top quality pistons designed for high RPM or long distance endurance racing use! Show me some cheap pistons using full floating.
SRP, Ross, JE and more use full floating pistons.

 

I noticed that you forgot the intake manifold and distributor.

Also, why didn't you just go with a Melling M55HV instead of buying a pump and then buying a spring? Just wondering?

 

Pistons forged full floating
(Speed Pro L2441F .030) $ 311.60

 

MCas7
Thanks, I forgot to mention the Intake its a Edelbrock RPM. I have a Accell HEI distributor, but the future (tax return) will call for MSD- 6420 Ignition Control and MSD-85551 Distributor.

flrtin1
What the weight of those pistons? You might need a crane to lift TRW (Heavyweight Pistons), also the Wiseco comes w/ 1/16 Hastings Hi-Tensile Plasma Rings, Chrome Moly Wrist Pins and Spire Loxs, Precision reamed pin fit wrist pin hole.
CNC machined symmetrical domes.
Pressure fed pin oiling. Oversized, symmetrical radius valve pockets. Let compare apples with apples here. :hail:

 

LOL, Just happened to have a pic handy and was replying to your request for low cost floaters! these are for a 8-71 blower motor im building anyway talk about apples and oranges

 

Another reason people use full floating pins, is the fact that those
high rpm /endurance motors are pulled apart after every race for inspection and freshening up. Full floaters on a street motor are really a waste of money.

 

that's a lot of jack and a good many of the parts you're using aren't the most expensive either. you're using a few parts i wouldn't if they were free, but that's just me.

 

Don't feel bad. That is about the cost of any quality build of any displacement. You made a great decision on the heads, your biggest power maker. Have you already purchased the parts? You can save some money by going to a full baffled oil pan with built in windage tray and scraper and Mellings M55HV pump/pickup from Dirt Track Thunder ($120). Any reason why you don't install the deck plugs yourself? It's really quite easy. Just use a piece of aluminum block drilled to a smigen more than the tap size as a guide. That way you get the tap in there nice and straight. Then just put the plugs with permanent Lok-Tite, leaving about 1/16" sticking up so when the deck is machined, it will cut off the top and really lock them in.

 

yeah i tap my own oil plug holes, install my own cam bearings, freeze plugs, and oil plugs. save a little money and i like doing it me self. i even do my own heads, valves and all.

 

my oh my ede....your a regular bad @ss arent ya heheheh
how much does that stuff run?...


that price seem pretty close to what it should run ya..4,600 IMO is actually pretty "cheap" for a healthy 400...and i also agree that the most money on any build should go to the heads...

When i built my LT1 i put about 3,500 in parts into it....1,200 went to heads....its also a stock bottom end, so my "final" motor price will be close to 5 grand when i done with it (full forged)....

 

I've seen used equipment go pretty cheap, but you have to know how to use it first. Its not a simple deal to just throw a valve in there and call it good. Not that its impossible to learn... just better do that first.

DTL, the pistons you are getting have Spiro-locks? Sounds like floaters to me...

 

this was what made me think that they were not full floating...cause you have to still get them mounted. sorry about the fuss...

 

Yes they are floating pistons.

EDE
you're using a few parts i wouldn't if they were free, but that's just me.
I could have use the more expensive crank and SFI Harmonic Balancer but for the RPMs that I will be spinng I feel like those parts was sufficient. What other parts are you talking about? I dont want to go over board. When you get the free parts that you are not using shoot me a PM and I will take them off your hand and pay for the shipping. I really just like to drop my engine off at the machine shop and have them do it all. The cost/time of doing that can be better use Drinking some cold BUDLIGHT

 

No problem, my choice of pistons was the SRP or Wiseco and when I look at the SRP pistons they did not have the rough edges and unfinish bottom. I will take a picture of them Wiseco they are PRETTY..

 

dtl it's no big deal, there's just some things i like and some i do, i've very brand loyal, whether it's car stuff or blue jeans

 

i know about wiseco quality and even had a set of pistons priced for my 305, but they were too expensive. my little 305 was going to be the answer to mypontiac's and *****'s car, but the prices where alittle more than i could bare at the moment so i went with a set of press pin hypers. (crap i know) but i did manage to get a good set of forged rods for like $120! it will see a little boost, but the big motor (ie 4.125" bore motor) will see alot more!

 

Hypers arent as bad as you think, at least for nitrous.
Check this out:
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...ghlight=piston

 

The figure out what its going to cost then double it rule bit you in the butt

 

What cam are you going with? I think i spent around 3500-4000 on my 406 build up and my heads didn't cost near as much, and i used the stock bottom end with good pistons. I think I might be going with a bigger cam after i get my tax return back

 

interesting...

 

Thumbing through the new Hot Rod Mag and they have 101 new parts from the SEMA show. It appears Manley is coming out with a high quality high silicone hyper piston. If it's priced in the Keith Black range, it might be a great option to forged pistons in some applications.

 

LUNATI FLAT TAPPET CAMSHAFT

Manufacture LUNATI
Part Number 280/284
Grind Number 280/284F10
Type Mechanical Solid
Advertised Duration @.050 Intake 247
Advertised Duration @.050 Exhaust 251
Advertised Valve Lift Intake 0.530
Actual Valve Lift Intake 0.560 w/1.6:1 Rockers
Advertised Valve Lift Exhaust 0.535
Actual Valve Lift Exhaust 0.565 w/1.6:1 Rockers
Installed Intake Centerline Angle 106 Degrees
Lobe Separation Angle 110 Degrees
Cam Advance 4-7 Degrees

Also a little update: I ran an ad in the local IWANTA and will be selling my Scat 9000 Crank. I will upgrade to a CHEVY 400 SCAT 4340 FORGED CRANKSHAFT. This will make my bottom end "ALL FORGE". NO a fan of the Eagle Cranks, too many problems....

 

Pretty healthy cam. I am running a hydrualic roller. 288/294 236/242 .570/.595 w/ 1.6's(lift is close, don't remember exactly) After talking to brent and TEA, I might have my heads flowed and he said a cam around 242/256 and around .600 lift would make my car alot faster, we will see how it goes.

 

Great disclosure. Any dyno numbers yet?

 

DTL504 -

I just went through this myself. I won't divulge what I actually ended up spending on mine total, but if you add up just the parts, that was 4500 alone.

And that didn't include the dyno and a lot of other assorted nickel and dime stuff involved with the swap. I'm still working on it and hope to have it running by the end of the week.

I also have a 4340 Scat crank. A Scat 9000 was ordered but they sent the forged instead.....but at the 9000 price! So that was just dumb luck. Good luck with it.

 

boy you guys need to shop where I am, I take it those are US funds, I'm building a 406 and will pobably be about 4 grand CANADIAN! and I started with nothing, just goign to be using my alternater off my v6, power steering pump, a mallory unilite distributor, and I think thats it.


you guys paying retail price?

i'll give you my current price list of the stuff so far


engine block= 75
boring
magnaflux
hottank
frost plugs
cam bearings installed
oil galleries tapped

200
speed pro hyperputic pistons(however its spelt) reverse dome 9.3;1 compression with 72 cc chamber head
257
5.7" scat forged 1 beam rods 301
3.750" scat 900 crank 247
clevite main bears 60
clevite rod bearsing 21
oil pick up, pump, screen 65
oil pan 61
gasket set w/ head gasket 49
piston chromoly rings 137
cam compe XE268 109
comp hydraulic lifters 80
chromoly pushrods 94
true roller timing chain 68.50
spark plugs 15
MSD 8.5MM wire 71
roller rockers, crane gold 1.5 225
dip stick 6
scat flywheeel 45
aluminum water pum edelbrock 194
ARP bolts throughout 300
timing chain cover 11.20
balancer 70
motor mounts 35
carburator 350
alt. and p/s march brackets 210
k&n filter+filter top 140
starter 250
wire looms 30


havne't shoped for heads but can get dart iron eagle 200cc intake runners for about 1200 bux fully loaded

dont have as big of a cam so I dont have to upgrade springs etc.

but your 'budget' build up seems a little more wild seeing as how you have the best of everything.

I usually get stuff at about 65% off the retail price.

cheers

blake

 

I have made some changes since I posted this list, which added to mo money, mo money, mo money...

Scat 4340 Forge Crank $490.00
H-series Main Bearings $55.00
H-series Rod Bearings $55.00
Assemly Balance $185.00 "No Mallory Needed"
Hone Pistons $24.00
Hone Damper $25.00
Install Pistons to Rods $40.00
New 168 tooth Flywheel $34.00
New Damper 8" $95.00

Engine Parts Total $4,321.87
Engine Machine Work Total $954.00
TOTAL $5,275.87
This do not include the little parts that I have been buying like assembly lube, Mr Moly Lube, EOS. ETC...

I added a few more Quality parts to my engine. I just did not feel comfortable with the cast crank.

 

LOL, well sounds like you arnt doing anything that you wont regreat. if you have the money man, build it, sounds like an awsome build up

cheers

blake

 

I think that was a smart move. I typically put exactly what I want in the short block even if it means waiting to complete the build. Changing recipricating parts in the short block costs much more time and money than if you just did it while it was being built the first time.

 

how did you get your block?

 

To make a long story short he is how it happened. Read through a "IWANTA Classified Ad" an a guy was selling a 350 (010), so I goes to look at the block and just happen to ask did he have a 400 and to my suprise he said yes, but it was around the corner by his friend house. Once I verified that it was a 400, I ask how much do he want for the block and he said I will take the same price as the 400. $50.00, This was a standard bore block and everything has check out at the machine shop. I have been installing the short block today and will post some pics later tonight of what I have done so far...
David

 

I just finish installing the pistons and next on the agenda was the Milodon Windage Screen, Baffle, and HV Oil Pump.
Well the windage screen will need to be modified to get the proper clearance for the rotating assembly and the baffle do not have holes to go through the studs, so I will have to drill them out. I did not expect to have so much modification to get everything to work. I'm very glad that I decieded to install everything myself and use the assembly money for the dyno which I want to happen before the end of this month.
Well the beat goes on.....
She will be worth the effort once she is finish:
Here are a few pictures of what I was able to do this weekend:
My SBC 400

 

DTL,
Where did you get your deck plugs. The middle one with the two holes is interesting. I have never seen one like that. I made the ones in the 400 block I'm building now but typically buy the Moroso's just for convience.

 

I had my machinist tap the deck plugs with 3/4 " pipe plugs then deck the block to .000. After this and all the other machine work was complete I had him drill the holes to match the gasket
(Fel-Pro 1014).

 

Sweet! Nice job.

 

I noticed that the inside of the motor was painted as well. I dont know what u callit but below where the intake manifold rests over.

any reason for that?


cheers

blake

 

What? No Tax???

 

Yes the inside of the block has been totally deburred and painted with Glyptal. David Vizard said it help with oil return back in the crankcase by providing a slick surface to aid in the return. I also epoxy screen in the front, back and lifter holes inside the lifter valley. I'm just taking my time and build her right the first time. What I dont want is to say I should have done this or that a few months down the road.

BTW: The price have surpassed the over $5200.00 and counting
:lala:

Dave