Coming home from school, not being rough on it or anything, turn onto my road. Hmmm....seems kinda sluggish. Had the music up loud, thought nothing of it. Turning into my driveway, i hear a knocking. Crap. So I turn down the radio, and low-rev it just to see if was just my imagination. Nope. a definite bottom-end loise. Oh ****. Shut engine off, tell dad, we come out to inspect. Check oil to see if it's low. Pretty low, but still some there. So, just in case, I put a quart in, debate over starting it back up, decide that if it's got a spun bearing, it's already too late. So i start it. It makes a fainter knocking, but it stops. Oil pressure is around 30. Hmmm....wtf. maybe it's really low on oil. But it has a tiny leak and it doesn't burn any. Check it again, and now the dipstick doesn't have any on it. So I put two more quarts in it. Start it up again, no noise. Keep it revved around 2500 RPMs, a vew random noises, but they are intermittent, and i *think* I've hear all of them before, so it's normal.

I guess I'll have to drive it tomorrow and see if it's hit the ****.

My oil pressure gauge has me confused though, but that's a whole other story.


Well....there's a bad side and a good side if I spun a bearing.

The good side, I get a new engine that isn't a turd.
Tha bad side...I've got to pay for it.


So here's my thoughts.

I want to use a 91-92 SD ECU with a HSR.

I want a fairly inexpensive 383 with a forged bottom end so that it can rev to 6500 RPM.

I want a good head/cam combo that will put me at around 460-500 HP but still daily driveable. I've already got the transmission and TC to handle it, but I'll have to eventually have to get a new rearend, actually definitely.

But yeah, let me know if I left anything out.

 

If you had said 5500 RPM, you might have some choices. But, as you know if you're being honest with yourself going fast and keeping costs down just don't mix.

Doing it right the first time is usually less expensive than going cheap the first time. However, getting back on the road quickly often thwarts that.

 

I fully understand. That's why I said inexpensive, not cheap. A better word would be.....economical. But that didn't fit the wording. I'd like some reccomendations on a good, "economical" rotating assembly though.

 

To make 450-500hp as a daily driver, meaning no big ol nasty cam and runs great on pump gas, thats going to cost some serious money.

I hope to make around 400fwhp with my Vortec setup, and while I only have around 1500$ (little stuff adds up quick) thats all in the top end. Add a new short block, thats probably a good 500-1000$ more depending on how thorough I do it.

I know trick flow sells top end kits in Summit and I believe they have a 450hp kit for around 1900$ or something. Thats probably your best bet. If not start looking into some AFR heads.

 

Well, I've got a beater that I can drive to work if that gets too expensive (which it most liely will) so It'll probably a night/weekend car, kinda like my phone.

 

man all this motor talk andi wish i had my motor. a couple weeks ago i find a crack in my 305 tbi and now i got a 350 tbi at the machine shop.. getting boiled, cam bearings, freeze out plugs, oil pump, new crank.. cause the 350 was seized up and the crank has had it.

anyways you're saying your oil guage is confusing you. why is it confusing you? maybe you're tlaking about it when it's on idle it drops in pressure. that used to confuse me cause i just started working on cars this past year or so. but anyways my oil pressure guage reads about 60lbs when i'm on the gas and about 30-35lbs when i'm at idle.