I started out with an 86 T/A WS6 with the original untouched 177,000 mile LB9. Everything was original, all the hoses, clamps, bolts, etc were correct. The new engine is a 1976 vintage 010 casting 350 short block with two bolt mains. Fully machined, balanced, built, with mid-level parts. The heads are stock 92 L98 083 castings with OEM valves, springs, etc.

Some items had to be changed to allow the use of the older block and new style heads. Specifically the dipstick location change, flywheel/starter variances, and intake bolt angles, required changes to related parts. SLP headers solved the dipstick issue, a new 153 tooth flywheel and new matching starter, and an 87-88 TPI intake resolved the issues.

While I had it apart I upgraded the motor mounts and tranny mount to Energy Suspension Poly mounts, and the air intake ducting to 88-89 TPI Firebird ducting. Coolant flow thru the throttle body was also deleted, as was the AIR injection. The TPI remained basically the same except for complete porting, a Hypertech airfoil, and shortly a Crane afpr will be added. A B&M TC was also installed to help the drivetrain (stock 700R4/2.77 9bolt) deal with the lumpy cam. After some minor tuning it runs really well, its a good bit faster than my 91 Formula 350. With some better gears and some minor tweaks to the tranny it should produce some good times.

Anyway, here are some pics. Unfortunately I don't have any before pics on this computer.

 

Good stuff Drew !

what are the specs on that cam, and what gear ratio
do you plan on getting ?

 

The cam is a summit piece, 214/224 duration 442/444-ish lift. For the gears I'm thinking at least 3.27's, maybe 3.45's or 3.70's but I'm concerned that 3.70's might just buy me lots of uncontrollable tire spin.

 

Nice job man! I should race in my IROC with the lil wussy 96 LT1 cam

Kat

 

hehehe sure thing man, just give me a couple weeks... the original radiator (date coded 1985) blew out yesterday. The plastic tank is leaking and spraying antifreeze all over the battery. Of course the leak issue popped up after I had juggled all the cars to their proper locations and I was late for work. So for the last two days I've been driving the Iroc. Now just to get the garage cleaned up so I can begin getting the 6cyl ready for winter. The only debate is to V8 or not to V8.

 

Thats a pretty moderate cam for a 350 !
Im guessing 112 LSA
Did you install roller rockers ?

 

nice looking install.

yummy white formula = :hail:

 

Go with a 3.73 (or 3.70) ratio.... I have those gears in my Z28 and I LOVE IT!!! The seat of the pants "kick" is WAY better, and you can roast 'em in any gear, but they are still very street friendly with an OD trans like my T5 (or your TH700).

 

It's plenty of cam considering its a flat tappet setup running under the stock TPI and stock 305 hardware. Anything more and I don't think it would be nearly as comfortable around town. The rockers are stock 92 L98 rockers, they conformed with my budget and needs.

The 2.77's burn the tires at will in 1st and 2nd, or anytime the car is accelerating in a turn. I'm just a little concerned that with 3.70's I'll be back to zero traction like my Formula.

I only have another month at most to play around with the V8 cars, since it's probably going to snow before October. Next summer it'll probably get more serious.

 

Hey drew, im doing a 305carb to 350 tpi swap, can u tell me if the battery on ur 88 is on the driver side or passenger side? i have an 86 t/a and im gonna run the air intake bellows like urs until i canget a ram air hood, but anyway i couldnt see where the battery was in ur pics. Thanks,

 

 

Go with 3.73s, you won't regret it. Traction is like dancing anyway... all in the feet

(yes, I realize what a dork I sound like saying that, lol)

 

Just wanted to say great looking install! Do you think you could give more details about your build?? I have the same 76' 010 block in my garage right now and was wondering if it's worth the build? Did you go with aftermarket internals, etc etc??

 

All tuned port birds have the battery on the drivers side and the airfilter on the right. If I were starting from scratch I'd try to put the battery in the trunk though.

The block I used came out of a truck or an El Camino. The story is that the carb linkage stuck at wot and the engine spun itself apart. When I got it the heads were long gone, the pistons had nice shiny spots where the valves had hit, and it had been sitting for several years still full of oil and antifreeze. I washed it and disassembled parts of it and everything matched the story. The cam was missing several lobes, the timing chain was stretched enough it came off without removing either gear, the cam gear itself was completely destroyed (no teeth). Etc... It had about 40,000 miles at the time of the problem. The bottom end turned over ok, and the cylinders were pretty clean, so it got the 92 heads, the summit cam, and the timing set. As it turned out something else was still wrong in the bottom end. After it started knocking I let the car sit for the winter and came back to it a month or so ago.

I tore it down and found two spun rod bearings, and one scored main bearing. I had the block boiled, magnafluxed, bored 30 over, and the crank turned and polished. The rods were shot peened and reconditioned with ARP bolts. New cast flat top pistons (4VR), new oil pump, new harmonic balancer, new flywheel, etc were added. I had the machine shop completely balance the rotating assembly. The heads, cam, and timing set all had less than 80 miles on the previous rendition so they were used as is.

I actually traded the ghetto fabulous 15" 80's tech wheels and low pro tires that were on the car for the block, so all told I've got less than a grand in the engine. Now I just have to rebuild or at least rework the tranny and rearend.