ok I have the pnk wire from the LT1 harness plugged into my pink wire that was hooked into the dist.

now B15 & B31 should have constant power(B+), is what I got from Transam #5's post, how is this done, is there a constant power in the thirdgen harness or do you splice to the battery directly?

 

Pretty much any solid red wire is hot at all times, pink is hot when the key is on. IIRC, B15 & 31 are tied together in the wiring harness already, so its just a matter of splicing a single wire into any wire that is hot at all times.

 

ok so I have 1 red wire from the original harness, I can assume that is 12v hot all the time?

Then if I have large pnk to large pnk, that is good?

Then where should I splice in the large orange ... onto the pink wire as well?

and then I splice the 15 and 31 or one of onto the Red wire from my existing harness?

also with my starter I have the bottom bolt grounded, the top bolt has the 12V power from the Bat, then the very small one has my purple wire. where do I hook up the two orange wires?


sorry for so many questions, it's tough cause I only had one cavity color connector, so it was simply C100 C105 etc..

 

well 10 minutes after posting that garabage of a post I got accesory power

so now Im at the point where I need to put power to the PCM .... should be to hard I don't think!

oh well, if that could be explained in depth alittle would help.


I guess Im looking for 15 and 31 on B connector, do they come out anywhere usefull or am I tracing them. and for powering them I have a red wire?


I got accesory power by hooking up my orange wire (3rd gen harness) to one of the red wires on the LT1 harness.

 

Easiest way to find B15 and 31 is with a multimeter on set on "continuity." Use one of the probes on the connector, push it into the B15 or 31 pin. Use the other probe to ***** any red wires in the B connector harness till you find the corresponding wire. There shouldn't be that many red ones in the bundle. Obviously this is made simpler if you have a sharp probe.

 

ok ill have to find one of those, should have one kicking around.

ok so I should be able to find them, not to hard.

what do I connect them to to give power, I read that it should be an orange wire? or red?

I currently have 1 of 3 fat red power wires from the LT1 harness connected to a pair/trio of redish wires giving accessory power.

would I use another one of those, now that there is power in both harnesses?

or the big orange wire in the LT1 harness?

 

correction, sorry, I had forgotten the wire colors.

RED is hot with the key
ORANGE is always hot

so yes, as long as one of those orange wires has power all the time, you can tie into it.

 

cool, ill be doing that tonight in a few hours, ill post up late tonight or tomorrow on how things go

*fingers crossed*

 

Drakar....just scanning through this and noticed you said earlier that you have the bottom bolt on the starter grounded. This should not be necessary since the starter is grounded where it attaches to the block. Also, to make things slightly neater, you can always run a wire or two(what I did) down to the starter +12v terminal that needs constant power. BTW, good luck and how bout some pics!

 

ok cleaning that up cause no one could figure it out. (writing wise)

 

ok re checked my fuel pump wiring, pump works. it was just my shabby first try, this time, properly secured my 10g wire to the 16ga, line to the pump, cause I need to run the power line to the front of the car. Now If I take the gournd side and ground to body and then run my large gauge power line to the front and connect as normal, that should power the pump yes?

Also how is the stock power lines for the pump run? in car? wher does it exit under car?

anyways in the process found out my fuel lines leak oh well at least that's easier for me.

so Im back to wiring. hehe, pictures

I just had a look and this is the latest one I have, which in all accounts is almost 4 weeks old. ill have new pics posted next weekend, showing hopefully a running car and that rats nests, are also man made.

 

ok here is what I need to know and Ill list what I have.

I have a stock un molested 3rd gen non CCcarb harness. So very basic!. like power gauges and coil wiring, thats it.

The wires I have

Purple = Crank
2 Red with fusible links, heading into drivers compartment (found out the power all lights and so forth.
1 red coming back off the 2 red above into engine (was never connected, but it is 12V from B+)
Wht = tach
Tan = Oil pressue gauge
Brown = Alternator ??
Pink = Power distribution? (pulled off of coil)
DK Green = Coolant temp sensor.

now I also have choke (don't need)
and some A/C stuff (never connected and don't need still)

So on the LT1 harness.

I connected my pink from above to the ONLY large pink cable from the 37 connector (shown in LT1 wiring post)

I then connected most gauges (tach output I plan to use from PCM, and run new wire for it.) 12084913 is part number for pins in the 32 pin connector heads of the PCM.

I deleted VATS as well as other stuff listed above.

Can someone tell me what I should connect the power wire from my fuel pump too? the dk grn/wht ... drk blu or grey? I have the relay in the U/H fuse block.

I have a multimeter now as well so I can suppl;y power to the PCM by testing (thx Texas!!) so that should be easy. Once I supply power to PCM and fuel pump, get guages hooked up. What else would I be missing?

There was another post talking about wiring power to the injectors? Wouldn't they have power from powering the harness?

oh and this is a Buick Roadmaster harness, which the caprice wiring helped some, but most of the talk is about F-body.

 

Yeah the injectors already get power from the harness, don't need to redo that.

Without seeing a wiring diagram for the Buick, I couldn't tell you where to connect the power for the fuel pump. From looking at the thirdgen diagrams though, power between the fuel pump and the relay should connect to the gray wire.

 

The stock 3rd gen wiring for the pump goes along the drivers side door sill under the carpet over to the area behind the rear seat. There should be a grommet there that feeds power and returns info on fuel level. My swap was so long ago I don't remember too well what color I used off of the fuel pump relay but I do remember wring it the wires in the door sill.

Yes, brown is for alternator. It should be very thin wire.

Injector power should come through the 4th gen harness.

 

ok thx guys, huge help.

Im getting the car towed to "another" location so I can start wiring again tomorrow night.

Six wire connector
Cavity Color Use
A Red Goes to splice, then; IGN switch, Theft
deterrent relay, fuses-27,28,29,30,33,34
35
B Red Goes to splice, then, AC blower relay,
Circuit breaker-1,3,4 fuses 36,37,38,39,40
C Red Goes to splice, then, Headlight switch,
fuse 31
D ?
E Yellow Goes from starter solenoid to Theft deterrent relay
F ?

I have that connector, and all 3 red wires are hot all the time, should that be?

do I connect these to anything?

I assume actually that E being yellow after coming from the theft relay would go to the actuall ignition, correct?