O.K. i started with a 1972 350 block, I had it hot tanked with new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. bored .030 , speed pro hyper pistons ,chevy X-rods, SCAT 9000 crank, arp main studs (for windage tray) although i havent purchased the windage tray yet.I also done a little prep work to the block like smoothing out the the lifter valley and opening up the oil drain back holes that way i know that all of my oil is flowing and not sitting on top of the engine instead of where it is suppose to be then i had the rotating assembly balanced pistons pressed onto the rods and then started assembling what i had at the time. I'm waiting on the money to get the cam&lifter set, 7 quart oil pan, and then im hoping to be able to top this off with a set of 195cc afr heads. let me know what you all think. havent decided on what cam to go with ,hydraulic or flat tappet, it will be a street car with occasional strip usage. maybe you all can suggest 1 for me.

THOMAS


engine pics

 

Hmmm, my LG4 had X rods. I'd put ARP bolts in them and have them resized (even though you've already had the pistons pressed).

What do you mean by "hydraulic or flat tappet" cam? They're not mutually exclusive. I had a hydraulic flat tappet cam in the 305, the new 350 is hydraulic roller lifter.

A 7 quart pan is a waste of space. 5 quart with regular Melling pump and synthetic oil will do just fine, especially since you cleaned up the return passages.

Matching the cam and intake to the heads is critical to good performance.

 

i meant hydraulic flat tappet or mechanical flat tappet sorry for the mis-type. with the 416's ill prolly use a CRN-113542 236/244@.050 .491/497 lift with 110 lobe sep. then when i switch heads ill go with 1 of the new voodoo cams. ill get the specs for you later.

thomas

 

have any thoughts what so ever?? just curious how any of you think about new combo.
oh yeah five7 the rods were resized and also fitted with arp bolts,got a great deal on them 99 bucks for everything.
THOMAS

 

I think it's going to be a nice running engine.

 

most of the voodoo cams are for bracket raing, i thought. I'd check and make sure of that.

 

flyitlikustolit here are the specs on the voodoo cam that i will be going and i decided against afr's i will be going with canfield heads,Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 284/292, Lift .525/.546 with 110 lsa. the canfields will be 2.055/1.6 with 65cc chambers here are the flow numbers, These flow numbers are reflective of mildly bowl blended ports.

VALVE LIFT .100 .200 .300 .400 .500 .600 .700
Intake Port 72.0 145.0 201.0 247.0 258.0 259.0 259.0
Exhaust Port 53.0 107.0 143.0 175.0 190.0 200.0 203.0

i think it should make for a pretty stout combo.
lemme know what you think.


THOMAS

 

not bad. looks like you'll be stompin imports in no time.

 

im currently in the middle of porting and polishing my 416 heads. here are some pics.

THOMAS

 

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I would be certain of which cylinder heads you are going to run before you select a camshaft. Big difference between AFR 195's and stockers.

 

unknown_host ive chosen 2 different cams one to go with the "stockers" and the other to go with the canfields im going to get after first of the year. just so you know.

THOMAS

 

What kind of compression are you going to end up with?

 

with these heads about 11.1 ,but thats with stock ports,so with the porting it will be a little bit lower.

 

Shouldn't be too much lower, I like your camshaft choice then. If the compression was a point or two lower I might go a bit smaller, but I think you made a good choice .

 

encountered my first injury day before yesterday ,i got a piece ofmetal stuck in my eye andhad to go to the dr to remove and will be going back today so he can recheck it because i believe its infected now. i will be taking a short break from working on the heads until my eye heals up and i can see properly again.

THOMAS

 

You weren't wearing goggles?

IMO, absolute musts for porting: Goggles or full-face shield, dust mask, and ear muffs or plugs.

Porting doesn't affect chamber size. Cleaning up the chambers, changing valves, unshrouding can.

 

Those heads look like they still have pressed-in rocker studs. If so, have a shop pull and tap them for screw-in studs.

 

five7kid i do honestly although when i startedworking on them last time someone had either moved them or stole them and i couldnt find them but no worries never again without them i learned my lesson big time. great news also my eye is about 90% better now just have to keep some drops in them and it will be totally healed in a few days so more progress pics coming soon.

THOMAS

 

I should have also said leather or mechanics gloves and long sleeves.

 

well guys,and ladies, my eye has completely healed and ive started back on my heads and here are a couple of updated pics.

 

and another 1

 

and the last for now. ive also decided to go ahead and install 1.94 valves and also have the guide bosses cut down and install guide plates and screw in studs.

THOMAS

 

currently im on vacation in illinois but as soon as i get home i will start back working on my heads. just didnt want you all to think that i have died ,as im hoping you all are as excited for me to get this thing running as i am. updates will be coming soon.

THOMAS

 

How is that scatt crank? I was suggested to use that for my 350 block. Is it just a stronger stock replacement 350 sbc crank.

 

thanx for replying,I was told by my machinist that unless your building a all out race engine that is ,scat 9000, is the best crank you can get for the money and from what i remember him telling me it is stronger than a factory forged crank. so to answer your question i would definately recommend it, but be sure to have it balanced as it just has a rough balance to it and if you dont have it done it will literally shake your engine apart.

THOMAS

 

alright, thank you tonz for the ballance comment

 

thats what this board was created for and has been a whole lot of help to me and everyone else on this board i have learned a great deal from this site and couldnt be where i am today without the help of it and the help of one of my closest friends that live in georgia that builds engines .

THOMAS

 

yeah everyone here does help a lot. My set up should be around 450 at the motor. Now with this crank rating of (500hp) be
awfully close. Looks like i just kissed my 125 shot good bye

 

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3

 

im finished with this head as much as i can do,next step is get other one done and then off to the machine shop to have 1.94 valves in,cut guide bosses down for guide plates and screw in studs.

THOMAS

 

Not exactly, that 500Hp is at what RPM, if your talking about the Scat 9000, then its like 6500-7000, i dont know about ur combo, but most wont run much higher than 6k, so a 125 shot or even down it to a 100 shot, with longer feed lines to lessen the "HIT" will help make your crank last longer, and help with traction, just spray a little high in the RPM band, like 3500. Im building a 383 with a 9000 crank in it, and im going to do a 100-125 shot on it too, with the Ported Vortec heads i should be around 430-450 at the crank as well.

Thomas, what tools are you using to grind out your heads? Air powered 1/4 grinders? Im using a normal dremel, with some Carbide bits and its taking me for ever to get a smooth radias like your getting on your exhaust ports.

 

im using air grinder with carbide tips but the trick is after you use the carbides then you have to go back over them with stones and the tapered 80 grit sanding rolls to smooth the grinding marks then you have to use 120 grit flap wheels to get it even smoother ,then you have to get what they call crossbuffs and then they will be extremely smooth and polished. if you have any more questions please feel free to asl ill help as much as i can.


THOMAS

 

ive got all the same stuff but the Carbide bits for my Air Grinder, but i have a tinny air compressor, but ok thanks for your method.

 

yeah i dont think the dremel has either enough speed or torque for you to be able to do them right to be honest from what i read but i hope the best for you .this is also the very first set of heads ive ever done. good louck.

THOMAS

 

A great little porting tool I've found is an old sewing machine motor,with a dynabrade brand flexshaft cable with a 1/4" collet.It will accept all your standard porting abrasives,and depending on the motor,should be variable speed that you can hook to a foot pedal for detail work.Even if you have a stout compressor and lots of die grinder accesories,this is a good little setup.

 

k thanks maxx

 

Just as a question, how hard is it to port your own heads, and what kind of tools do you need?

And how much dose it realy help you?

 

I would buy a book on porting small block Chevy heads, that is the best way to learn the concepts and basics.

I have a friend do my head work, it just depends on what you have to work with and what your goals are as far as gains.

 

sorry i havent been on in a while ive been in the hospital because of food poisoning and anxiety attacks. so hopefully ill be well in a few days and ill be going full swing again. ill keep you all imformed.

THOMAS

 

just wanted to let you guys know i wasnt dead and im trying to get my heads finished slow going. i had food poisoning , then i started having bad problems with anxiety attacks and the meds they have me on make me feel like a zombie all i do is go to work (barely) then come home and want to go to sleep. so hopefully ill be able to get my meds unde control and get back to building my engine the rest of the way.

THOMAS