Once I get back to the states i would like to SWAP out the 305 in my TA with something with a little more horse power (350?). Looking around the site I noticed there was talk that the ZZ4 was a good crate engine to put under the hood.

Will the fast burn 385 drop in my TA and bolt up to the transmission?

If not what would be the ideal engine to drop in my bird, with minimal complications?

Forgot to mention i want to stay with the four barrel carb, like I said, the easiest to drop in (with the most HP) LOL.

 

1st, welcome aboard!

2nd, thank you for your service to our country. Being overseas is a sacrifice most Americans can't appreciate.

Now, to your specific questions:

Any factory V8 3rd gen f-body transmission will bolt up to any Chevy V8.

The ZZ4 is basically what I've got in my car now, supported by an '86 LG4 system. It's fairly tame by some standards, but it's my daily, my income supports 5 (two in college), plus a cat, two dogs, 3 birds, 8 fish, and a horse. So, I can't get too wild with it. Exhaust and air cleaner help are necessary. The ZZ4 heads don't accomodate the factory EGR system, but the chip in the "HO Conversion Kit" takes care of that (and your stock chip may handle it fine). Since my heads have the exhaust cross-over passages, I didn't have to worry about that. You will need knock sensor & module for a V8 - I got mine from gmpartdirect.com, I can find the p/n's if you can't come up with them from a search.

The Fastburn requires a different intake manifold, otherwise all of the rest of the answers are the same.

 

So what do you think it would cost me for the whole change over?

 

A factory dual-snorkel air cleaner will run you between $100-$300, depending upon condition and completeness, and assuming you can actually find one. Or, you can fabricate one from single snorkel parts (see the Father & Son project sticky, or the Tech Article linked from the thirdgen.org homepage.).

The exhaust will depend upon your need or lack thereof to pass emissions inspection and/or testing. If none, you may be able to cheap out a little. But, in the end, the best bet seems to be Hooker 2055 headers with their great y-pipe (~$375); a cat-back made for the same application as the headers, '86-'90 TPI single cat (somewhere between $250-$500); and if emissions required, a direct-fit cat for the same application (~$125 - I've got a 3" chunk of pipe where the cat once was, $25 to have a piece cut off their stock and one end expanded to 3" ID - I already had the cat-back I-pipe expanded to 3" ID). Resist the temptation to go with a universal fit cat - it will cost you more in the end to integrate it into the system than a direct-fit cat will.

Either engine would appreciate a higher stalling torque converter. You can get a low-end ACC Boss Hog TH700 converter for about $375 from Pep Boys (I've been racing their TH400 unit in the '57 for over 2 seasons with no problems); or spend $800 for a Vigilante, which is a great converter for street/strip performance, from what I hear. If the tranny is getting tired, a rebuild with the standard upgrades (Vette servo, .5 relief valve, etc.) will probably run you somewhere between $800-$1200.

Subframe connectors - the weld-in bare metal types from our sponsor Spohn, see button at the top of the page, are $195 plus shipping. Great parts. I had to clearance the passenger side slightly for the y-pipe after installing new poly engine mounts, but if you have the engine and exhaust done before putting in the SFCs, you may be able to avoid that (maybe not - the new engine mounts probably weren't taken into account when the SFCs were designed). Otherwise, great parts, great design, really help the car overall.

Poly suspension bushings - good idea to help the car handle the new power. Helps it handle better, too. I got mine from PST, but Spohn, Summit, Jegs, others have them available as well. Probably around $150-$200, depending upon the kit/parts you end up getting. I still need to put them in the rear suspension myself, have plans to box the control arms when I do, so haven't gotten it done yet. The front and the engine/tranny/torque arm mounts are all done, though.

 

Are there anything to look out for if someone was going to buy a small block 350 off e-bay?

 

Anything that sounds too good to be true.

I wouldn't deal off eBay unless it happened to be an offer from a legit outfit that also happened to do business on eBay. I found my shortblock on eBay, but the guy was 70 miles from here, I talked to him on the phone before bidding, and I actually bought it direct after losing the auction and the winner didn't pay.

However, my brother also found these guys on eBay http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/...48105043469.dd , asked me what I thought. I checked out their website, asked guys on TGO what they thought, and told him to make sure he specified certain things (such as 083 heads and roller cam). He ordered on-line, they called him the next day to verify what he was trying to do and what he was ordering to make sure he would get something that would work for him, 10 days later a crate showed up on his driveway. He's had it running since Sep '04 and couldn't be happier. All told, with shipping, "forklift fee", and core charge (he didn't return his old engine), it ran him about $1700. You could do something like that, specify a better cam if you like (such as the ZZ4 crate motor cam), and you'd have a pretty good running engine. It wouldn't be quite as powerful as the two you mentioned, but it wouldn't cost as much, either.

 

Now in theory could i use the parts off my 305 and put them on that 350 base engine, or would they have to be parts made specifically for a 350 engine?

 

Everything that is currently on my 350 shortblock was previously on my 305 (except the knock sensor).

The only possible "issue" with an L98 engine is the center two intake manifold bolts on each side. They are at 72 degrees on '87-later engines (like the 083 heads), but 90 degrees on your '86 engine. The intake manifold bolt holes can be elongated to get the bolts to fit, or you can get an '87-up intake manifold. You could also specify '86-earlier casting heads, but I wouldn't know what to tell you to ask for.

The ZZ4 (and Vette aluminum L98 heads) have all intake bolts at 90 degrees, and the ZZ4 comes with a good intake manifold (what I'm using).

 

So for the money, and just to have a 350 under the hood, plus also have at the least 330 HP, what is my best bet? I mean, would going with the above engine and then just tacking on the parts from my 305 with a performance L98 heads do the job. I dont really want to have to spend over 2000 on the engine, seeing how it needs paint and interior work.

 

Well, we need to understand these horsepower numbers. The ones used for the stock engines, like 145-210 for various 305s, 215-235 for L98s, is flywheel net - meaning the flywheel horsepower of the engine as installed in the vehicle, with air cleaner, exhaust, fuel pump, and belt-driven accessories (water pump and alternator) operating. The 330 & 355 for the HO & ZZ4, respectively, are flywheel gross - meaning the engine has a velocity stack on the carb, long tube headers with no mufflers, engine not powering water pump or providing electrical power, etc. The net ratings are more realistic, while the crate ratings are "glorified". I believe the 350 HO Camaro Conversion Kit, which used the ZZ4 engine and computer carb, cast iron exhaust manifolds, dual cats, dual snorket air cleaner, put out just over 300 horses which I believe was a mixed gross/net # (not sure if the water pump, alternator, fuel pump were powered by the engine or provided via facility).

With a rebuilt L98-type engine, ZZ4 cam & intake, computer carb, dual snorkel air cleaner, and decent shorty headers, 300 net equines is a reasonable expectation. I honestly don't know if this outfit will put a ZZ4 cam in an engine they'll sell you, but they should be willing to put some sort of computer-compatible, upgraded roller cam in for you, along with valve springs to handle the additional lift. Or, you could order a "standard" L98, get your own ZZ4 or aftermarket cam, upgrade valve springs, and install them yourself after you get the engine.

Or, you could find a 350 core, rebuild it yourself, put in a cam & springs of your choice, and possible get it done for under your $2000 target.

 

Sounds like quite a complicated process. This one ill have to give some thought.

 

You've come to the right place to get questions answered (and not just because I've been the only one responding).