I have a 1987 Firebird. It has a 305 with carb. It also has 166,000 miles, I have a leak at the front and the back of the engine. It smokes on start up and found oil on the spark plugs. It runs good and will give you whiplash when you punch it and it shifts. I am 42 and just looking for something to ride around in. I would like to rebuild engine and give it a little power. What are everyone thoughts. I know everyone will say put in 350, Ive hade my neck jerkers with a V8 Vega (sledge hammer to firewall time) Just looking for cruiser and want to keep 305.

 

Rebuilding the 305 isn't a bad idea, but building a 350 will actually cost you less and you'll get more out of it. I'd build a healthy 350 for it. If you just want a nice driver, I'd build something similar to an L98 with an LT1 cam in it, and put your Qjet and stock intake on it. Keep the CR around 9.5:1 or so and you'd have a very nice driver with some giddyup when you want it. You can do just the same with the 305, even use the LT1 cam would be a good idea, but you'll get about 10-15% less power out of it with a 305 shortblock.

 

Rebuilding the 350 might cost less if he's replacing all the parts in the 305. For what he wants though, it sounds like a standard rebuild with new rings and bearings would do just fine.

 

I'm not worried about cost. It will be worth more to me, so I paln on keeping it. Few ideas, new ring and bearing. Cam with a little kick. New intake, port the heads. Headers with flow masters. Also, I dont want to forget a trash can to put all the pollution control crap in. Is that a good start? I am going to rebuild edlebrook this weekend, see what I can do. Merry Christmas everyone.

 

I doubt you "need" rings & bearings. Smoke at start-up and oil on plugs is valve seals. You'll take care of that when you port the heads and have the "valve job" done. Have positive-type stem seals put on, which will probably require cutting the top of the valve guides, and you'll eliminate that problem entirely.

Leaks are seals and/or gaskets. You'll take care of that when you put it back together.

What carb are you running now? If it came from the factory with a carb, you basically have the same set-up I've got (small cap distributor being the main difference). There's nothing wrong with the factory carb for street performance. Ditto for the "pollution control crap" everybody misunderstands. Removing the A.I.R. system is about the only "crap" on there, and it's removal is basically for engine compartment clean-up, not more power.

Your engine should have a hydraulic roller lifter cam. That's a good thing, consider a take-off ZZ4 cam (eBay) as a great upgrade. The valve springs should be replaced while you're at it to take the lift. The aforementioned positive stem seals will also aide in that department.