383 swap has finally started...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
383 swap has finally started...
I posted this on fbody.com while TGO was down... but no replies after 16+ hours and 20+ views:
Finally got around to firing my new 383 motor on the cradle outside the car after about 4 years of planning, researching, buying parts, and assembling.
Quick specs:
4 bolt main block with ARP studs everywhere possible ARP bolts everywhere else
4340 Forged Eagle 400 Crank internally balanced & reground to 350 mains
4340 Ultra LW Race I beams
TRW forged floater flat top pistons
210CC Race Ready AFR heads (76cc)
1.6 pro mag rockers with stud girdles
Solid roller cam (XE280R)
Comp Cams Solid Roller lifters with rev kit
TRW (Speed-Pro) rings gapped at .022/.024
Victor JR hand ported intake with 2" 4 hole spacer
750 DP Speed Demon Carb
Complete MSD System
Autometer Tach, Oil, and Water gauges
I'm showing ~65 PSI when I prime it with a 1/4 HP high speed drill. I had 75 psi of oil pressure at 3000 RPMs or so. It ran off and on fine for about 10 minutes. My main problem was I had the fuel pressure to low, so I was constantly killing the motor if the throttle was not being snapped back and forth to keep the fuel coming into the squirters. I started around 4.5 PSI using a mallory 3-port bypass type off my FI pump. I eventually ended up ~6.5 PSI to get it to idle at 1200 RPMs to get it to idle alone. This was just a test run to make sure gaskets seal before I put it into the car. I plan on putting it in the car and letting it warm up to do the timing and first oil change. Then I plan on breaking the cam and valvetrain in with the 2500 RPMs routine, even though being roller I'm pretty sure I don't need to.
I used a Melling M55 pump, which should be stock volume and stock pressure. I'm also running the Mildon 4" stroker pan (7 qts) with an AC Delco filter (1 qt). I only show'd one leak in the oil system and that was a polymer valve cover leak, which I just tighten'd down the fastners snug again to fix it. Other than that it was fine, no antifreeze in the oil and no outrageous smoking out of the open headers.
So is 75 PSI to high? I'm planning on running this on the street (limited use). With my camshaft and valvetrain I expect to beable to snap 7000+ RPMs easily, so I expected slightly high oil pressure.
Also I planned on coating the bay with Marine Clean, Metal Ready, Por-15 high gloss black, then finish it off with Chassiscoat (satin black). I was going to do the same with the K member, swaybar, and BMR wonderbar but finish them with sterling silver top coating to match the block color.
I'm open to sugguestions on wiring harness modifications too. I searched while back, but I'm not at home so I don't have my bookmarks currently.
Finally got around to firing my new 383 motor on the cradle outside the car after about 4 years of planning, researching, buying parts, and assembling.
Quick specs:
4 bolt main block with ARP studs everywhere possible ARP bolts everywhere else
4340 Forged Eagle 400 Crank internally balanced & reground to 350 mains
4340 Ultra LW Race I beams
TRW forged floater flat top pistons
210CC Race Ready AFR heads (76cc)
1.6 pro mag rockers with stud girdles
Solid roller cam (XE280R)
Comp Cams Solid Roller lifters with rev kit
TRW (Speed-Pro) rings gapped at .022/.024
Victor JR hand ported intake with 2" 4 hole spacer
750 DP Speed Demon Carb
Complete MSD System
Autometer Tach, Oil, and Water gauges
I'm showing ~65 PSI when I prime it with a 1/4 HP high speed drill. I had 75 psi of oil pressure at 3000 RPMs or so. It ran off and on fine for about 10 minutes. My main problem was I had the fuel pressure to low, so I was constantly killing the motor if the throttle was not being snapped back and forth to keep the fuel coming into the squirters. I started around 4.5 PSI using a mallory 3-port bypass type off my FI pump. I eventually ended up ~6.5 PSI to get it to idle at 1200 RPMs to get it to idle alone. This was just a test run to make sure gaskets seal before I put it into the car. I plan on putting it in the car and letting it warm up to do the timing and first oil change. Then I plan on breaking the cam and valvetrain in with the 2500 RPMs routine, even though being roller I'm pretty sure I don't need to.
I used a Melling M55 pump, which should be stock volume and stock pressure. I'm also running the Mildon 4" stroker pan (7 qts) with an AC Delco filter (1 qt). I only show'd one leak in the oil system and that was a polymer valve cover leak, which I just tighten'd down the fastners snug again to fix it. Other than that it was fine, no antifreeze in the oil and no outrageous smoking out of the open headers.
So is 75 PSI to high? I'm planning on running this on the street (limited use). With my camshaft and valvetrain I expect to beable to snap 7000+ RPMs easily, so I expected slightly high oil pressure.
Also I planned on coating the bay with Marine Clean, Metal Ready, Por-15 high gloss black, then finish it off with Chassiscoat (satin black). I was going to do the same with the K member, swaybar, and BMR wonderbar but finish them with sterling silver top coating to match the block color.
I'm open to sugguestions on wiring harness modifications too. I searched while back, but I'm not at home so I don't have my bookmarks currently.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,204
Likes: 7
From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Nevermind I'm an idoit. I looked back at my invoices... on 2/20/04 I bought a MEL-M55A which is stock volume but high pressure... I guess that explains it. Still open to comments.
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