another 383 thread
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
another 383 thread
Hey guy's, sorry to make another one.. I got a bunch of different answers researching stuff..so I'm building a 383 stroker.. I'm aiming for 400-450RWPH, or whatever it will take to run 11's. How do-able is this without forced induction? Also, what would the cost of something like this be?
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From: Chicago 'burbs
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: carburated 350-- H/C
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ auburn posi and 3.73s
i'm looking into the same thing actually.
i'm pretty sure if you have 11-1 compression, aluminum heads with 195cc+ intake ports, and a decent cam (235+ duration and .520+ lift) you should hit 425 rwhp pretty easily.
i'm pretty sure if you have 11-1 compression, aluminum heads with 195cc+ intake ports, and a decent cam (235+ duration and .520+ lift) you should hit 425 rwhp pretty easily.
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From: Mooresville, NC
Car: 1983 Buick Regal
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.11
400+ horsepower out of a 383 stroker can just about be done blind folded!
A good solid rotating assembly (light weight wouldn't hurt) and even a good set of old iron 2.02" cylinder heads could be used. Even go the little extra and get some high flowing aluminums and a good lumpy cam with the right induction setup and you will probably be seeing 450 easy!
A good solid rotating assembly (light weight wouldn't hurt) and even a good set of old iron 2.02" cylinder heads could be used. Even go the little extra and get some high flowing aluminums and a good lumpy cam with the right induction setup and you will probably be seeing 450 easy!
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
Any specific part's I should use to see at least 400RWHP? The reason I ask is a friend of mine is building up a jetta, doing a VR6 swap and turboing it. He is aiming for about 400 horse at the engine, not WHP, now I know he's a lot lighter then me, but I'm going to make more torque.. and I'm aiming for 400+RWHP, which should give me about 450 at the engine at least right? Also, I have the advantage [as of right now] of being RWD vs FWD.. I can launch a lot better.. however, he is thinking of going AWD conversion with some kit.. in which case he should take me off the line, but will suffer major parasitic loss top end correct? Basically, I dont want to lose this race.. because there's a lot riding on it..lol..This kid talks so much **** about domestics, and I need to shut him up once and for all. As it is, both cars as they sit right now.. I beat him.. so he's throwing all this cash into it...and I'm building mine up anyways. So any tips for anything [suspension, engine, etc] would be awesome!
Ps: the races will be done on a track, not the street.
Ps: the races will be done on a track, not the street.
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 368
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From: Mooresville, NC
Car: 1983 Buick Regal
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Well one thing is for sure, you will spend a whole lot less $$$ making 400rwhp than him making 400fwhp! I would suggest a forged rotating assembly or even cast steel (incase you ever wanna juice it in the future) Eagle would be my choice.
There are so many friggin' combinations of what you could use it makes my head hurt trying to think of them! Don't automatically go with the cheapest rotating assembly but you definately don't need the most expensive either, just shop around (summitracing.com is my favorite place to shop for new stuff) then I would honestly find a nice cheap rebuildable set of 2.02"/1.60" GM iron cylinder heads and have them ported and polished and you'll definately be happy!
I have a nice single plane Holley Street Dominator intake manifold that would be great for this combo if you're interested?!?

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Perfect set of heads right there!!!
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...iminators.html
Last edited by RITTER; Mar 6, 2007 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 1988 Firebird Formula
Engine: 388 Carb
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
I am essentially doing the same thing... as of now i am head over heels in engine parts sitting in my garage. I have a cast steel 400 crank (not the strongest but better then cast iron.) hypertec coated pistons, stock connecting rods, and the flexplate balenced. I also had the 350 block cleaned and machined and basically everything needed to assemble the shortblock. I got that for somewhere around $1300 which in my opinion isnt that bad since the machine work is already done. I am looking at the same goal as you with the 11's. I am currently saving up for those AFRs RITTER linked to. I have a barry grant speed demon 750 cfm carb. Im going with vac secondays and a choke... Remember, will your rear hold up? will your tranny hold up? My tranny was just rebuilt. I just bought myself a 9 bolt rear, it is a 3.27 and i will prob keep it like that till i get to the track. I will pray it holds up!!! If you can afford it go with a 12 bolt or a 9 inch... DO IT. Will this track you go to require a roll cage? either way, i highly suggest Sub Frame connectors (HIGHLY SUGGEST) Is there anything you can do to lighten your car?? See, i kinda want the best of both worlds, I want a car that will do 11s in the 1/4 and still have A/C and a full interior lol... What are your intetions with your car? Do you want it to be a daily driver?
Is your friend auctually serious about building their car cause i hear alot of people talk but not auctually do it.
Good luck, im tired of hearing people talk about building those VR6s, show em whos boss!
-Dennis
Is your friend auctually serious about building their car cause i hear alot of people talk but not auctually do it.
Good luck, im tired of hearing people talk about building those VR6s, show em whos boss!
-Dennis
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 61
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From: Toronto, Ontario
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro
Yeah I know.. He has to go the turbo route to get the 400HP, but he's not even going for 400FWHP just at the crank.. so I should easily take him.. but yeah he was quoted quite a bit to build this motor... Any rough estimate's how much this engine is going to cost me to build? I already have the 350 block [well a whole 350 actually, but Im not sure if any of it is good anymore] and I want to run a carb ontop. Maybe a Holly DP?
How much do ya want for the intake?
Basically, Im just going to need. Block + rotating assembly + good heads + good intake + good carb right + good cam right?
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I'm already in the process of upgrading my rear/trans now, Im actually doing them first so that way when I do the engine, it's good to go. SFC, LCA's, PHB, new springs, shocks and struts are all also on the way. I have no AC, manual windows and locks. My interior is full though + a box with two sub's and an amp. It's going to be like a cruiser on a nice day.
Yeah he's definetly serious about doing it, because he already gave the engine builder 6,000$ + the VR6 engine to turbo and do up, and he's ordering the AWD kit from the performance shop on friday. Upside for him is he had more money saved up... downside for him is he drive's a VW and not an F-body
hah.
How much do ya want for the intake?
Basically, Im just going to need. Block + rotating assembly + good heads + good intake + good carb right + good cam right?
----------
I am essentially doing the same thing... as of now i am head over heels in engine parts sitting in my garage. I have a cast steel 400 crank (not the strongest but better then cast iron.) hypertec coated pistons, stock connecting rods, and the flexplate balenced. I also had the 350 block cleaned and machined and basically everything needed to assemble the shortblock. I got that for somewhere around $1300 which in my opinion isnt that bad since the machine work is already done. I am looking at the same goal as you with the 11's. I am currently saving up for those AFRs RITTER linked to. I have a barry grant speed demon 750 cfm carb. Im going with vac secondays and a choke... Remember, will your rear hold up? will your tranny hold up? My tranny was just rebuilt. I just bought myself a 9 bolt rear, it is a 3.27 and i will prob keep it like that till i get to the track. I will pray it holds up!!! If you can afford it go with a 12 bolt or a 9 inch... DO IT. Will this track you go to require a roll cage? either way, i highly suggest Sub Frame connectors (HIGHLY SUGGEST) Is there anything you can do to lighten your car?? See, i kinda want the best of both worlds, I want a car that will do 11s in the 1/4 and still have A/C and a full interior lol... What are your intetions with your car? Do you want it to be a daily driver?
Is your friend auctually serious about building their car cause i hear alot of people talk but not auctually do it.
Good luck, im tired of hearing people talk about building those VR6s, show em whos boss!
-Dennis
Is your friend auctually serious about building their car cause i hear alot of people talk but not auctually do it.
Good luck, im tired of hearing people talk about building those VR6s, show em whos boss!
-Dennis
I'm already in the process of upgrading my rear/trans now, Im actually doing them first so that way when I do the engine, it's good to go. SFC, LCA's, PHB, new springs, shocks and struts are all also on the way. I have no AC, manual windows and locks. My interior is full though + a box with two sub's and an amp. It's going to be like a cruiser on a nice day.
Yeah he's definetly serious about doing it, because he already gave the engine builder 6,000$ + the VR6 engine to turbo and do up, and he's ordering the AWD kit from the performance shop on friday. Upside for him is he had more money saved up... downside for him is he drive's a VW and not an F-body
hah. Last edited by Sunny; Mar 6, 2007 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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