I bought a 327 (supposedly) from a meth-head I know about a year ago, he claims he just put new bearings in it, I'm going to tear it back down just to check his f'ed up work.
I plan to eventually transplant this stand alone engine into a 92 RS and I was looking for camshaft recommendations, I'm not sure if I'll go auto or manual yet, it depends if I can get the track out of my left foot!

This will be a little weird but I'm looking for around and about 400-500 BHP and 400-500 FT.LBS still streetable.

Do yall think it will be streetable or is that too much? if so what would yall recommend for a DD that passes everything on the interstate.

I've never been worried about actual HP or TORQUE I build it and it goes that's all I know, BUT I'm tired of being in the dark I wanna know what I can do and not just know that it hauls ****. A few people have had my creation(s) dyno'ed at over 550 HP and 480+ FT-LBS torque BUT thats with the 400 SBC and 427 BBC. I wanna know what (range of power) came out of the 327 SBC
from the factory because I know I built prollly hundreds of CLOSE to stock 13 and 11 seconds from stock blocks and cranks, and now that I've gotten one I would like to take this baby and take it to the 12s with A/C and power windows.

Am I nutz or is this possible?

And if anyone wants to know why I opted against the 4 bolt 350 it was due to the fact that it's sitting in a 72 G30 van converted to an ambulance in 73 and the chassis of the van has like 6K or 7K originally placed miles, and the motor has to be removed from the passenger side door with most of the front clip removed and I have a 327 already sitting on a table next to the ambulance, sometime in the future I plan to turn the ambulance into a service van for big rigs since I just taken my finals for diesel technology today.

 

375 HP (gross flywheel) was the most the factory ever claimed out of a 327. And it was marginally streetable.

You can do a little better today with modern cam and head technology, but "streetable" is still the main issue.

Is the engine '67-earlier, or '68-'69? If the latter, get a 383 kit and build away.

Being able to pass anything on the road is a tall order for an old-school 327, considering what Vettes are capable of these days.

 

I'll post casting #'s in a little while so everyone can have a better idea (including me) with what I'm starting with. As previously stated I bought it from a meth head so I'm not sure it's not some stupid crap or a legit motor, the way I saw it a year or so ago, not locked up, v8 both heads, dizzy and intake, good deal, I'm just hoping the freak wasn't lying to me about the motor because I can't get a hold of him due to the fact he's in prison of possession of crystal meth!

SSSSSSOOOOOOOO I'll post some numbers up later I just gotta pull the bag off of it!
Get it, let the cat outta the bag, literally (just it ain't a CAT motor)

 

Just make sure there aren't any bags in it . . .

 

Determine if it's a small journal 327 or a large journal 327. The large journal 327 will accept 350 crank, pistons, etc. - therefore you can easily make it into a 350 (for all intensive purposes), or do most anything to it you would to a 350.

 

I just got back from behind my shed where the motor is and I pulled the valve covers off and the tops of the heads look like it just got reworked, NO varnish or sludge on the springs, half collets or retainers or the head surface itself

So I may have a decent motor if these numbers check out

GM 3970010 block and the head #'s I found were in between the valve springs and they are 14022601

Please elaborate!

 

from www.mortec.com

3970010....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro
3970010....327.....69....2...Trucks and industrial
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4

14022601...80-86...267/305......1.72"/1.5" or 1.84"/1.5" valves, 53cc chambers


The block casting doesn't do much good - it could be a 302, 327, or 350 - depending on the number of main cap bolts and the crank castings. So pull the pan off, count the main cap bolts, and get the casting # off the crank - then you'll know for sure.

The heads are from a 305 - which doesn't help figure the displacement of the block.

If it is a 350 block, those heads with the smaller chamber sizes (53cc) will increase your compression ratio some - you may need to run supreme gas to keep from detonating.

 

The block is a large journal main, so that settles that. Make it any displacement you want, basically.

 

So if thats correct I might could turn it into a 400 with some machine work,
would it be possible to make a quick revving 400SBC?

 

Uh, any displacement but 400. . .

I was talking about 302, 327, 350, or 383. Ish.

 

A 3.75" stroke crank will make it a nice 383 (with a .030" overbore)
If you have the cash, you can get a 3.85" stroke and make it a 396 IIRC. More cubes = more fun. You'll need high flow heads, and a fair bit of cam, which kills the streetability, but you'll get *close* to your goal.

 

Hey everyone get this, the heads have got TRIPLE valve springs but stock valves WTF is up with that, any ideas?

 

The god of speed is smiling on you.

Have them checked out individually for force at installed height and max lift height.

 

the machine shop could do that for me while I have the heads and block pressure tested, heck while I'm at it I might as well go with larger valves heh.

 

Indeed. Maybe some work was done to them that might make them worth keeping, never know eh?
These are probably double springs with dampers right? Anyway, lets see what the machine shop says.

 

finally got the engine broken down today (bottom end) and here's what I discovered

Two bolt main
motor locked up due to rusty cylinder walls
All bearings were torqued to spec but were loose
# 4 rod bearing and journal eaten up pretty badly
And he lied to me about the bearings, the one's in this motor have GM embossed into the backing of them
EVERY piston ring seized into the piston
it's might have to have some bore work done but it's still got the std 4 inch bore

I don't know what to think about this motor, if I have to have a crank turned or something like that, I'll go on ahead and do it but replace a few things to make it spin faster, heck I'll most likely put new pistons and rods in it if any major work has to be done.

 

That's fine.
If it had some bore work done, it wouldn't be the standard 4-inch bore.

These days, a 383 kit won't cost you significantly more than having a stock crank turned and stock rods resized with ARP bolts, and the aftermarket kit is likely to be able to handle more power. New pistons should be assumed regardless, since you are going to have to bore the cylinders to clean up the rust damage.

What is the casting # on the crank?

 

where at on the crank is it?

 

I don't see enough to remember details.

Just look for something that matches one of these: http://www.mortec.com/cranks.htm

 

hey five, that site tells me nothing about the location of the #'s on the crank

 

Look in areas that aren't machined. Somewhere toward the back on a counterweight, IIRC.

Like I said, I don't remember exactly because I only look at cranks maybe once every 5 years.

 

I've been looking but still can't find any crank numbers. it's the style crank that has the weird shaped flywheel mount not the round one

 

Yes, that's the 2-piece rear main seal style. On the other hand, I know people who think the round one is weird. . .

It should be a cast crank, so there should be something somewhere. Is it still in the engine? I assume you're looking at the part of the crank internal to the block, not just what's outside the block.

 

no it's out of the block and yes I'm checking all the unmachined surfaces like the counterweights and whatnot but I swear I'm not seeing any casting numbers............kinda aggravatin!

 

found these numbers but I'm not sure they mean ****

393 2or3 442
I found these numbers on one of the counterweights towards the front.