ok i am going from a 350ci to a 322ci in my 91 z28. i just want to get some peoples opions on this (not that it really matters since the motor is almost done) i really just want to know if anyone has ever herd of what i am doin or ever tryed it. and just to make sure that noone thinks i am completely retarded this motor did not start out as a 5.0 in any way shap or form

a few pics of what it is

 

There are Comp Eliminator racers who will build a smaller engine to get into a specific class. They also use exotic components to make stupid amounts of power but their engines are far from being considered streetable.

For most people who want a strong street engine, it's not worth the time or money to make anything smaller than a 350.

 

Ya, what he said...

I can understand doing that if you're using what you have. Budget stuff always makes sense to me. You don't appear to be budget constrained too badly.

So, why are you doing it? I'm not bashing; I am genuinely curious as to what you are trying to acheive...

 

why do you ask for opinions and dont tell us ****. Those pics dont tell us squat either. So it looks pretty but what the hell is it? What did you do to it? Did you buy it that way or build it? What did it start out as? What components used? And most importantly what kind of numbers does it make and whats its power band. When you give us a reasonable amount of info then we can give you a reasonable opinion thats not just a bunch of bs.

 

I think I saw that engine at Checker. . .

 

ok i got the info i wanted before i said what it is. i built the motor first off and it was not much of a budget build even though it was suposed to be. it started out life as a 400 bored .030 over. it has a zz302 crank in it witch is where the small ci comes from. it is not complete yet so i have no dyno numbers on it but buy math it should be in the mid to upper 500hp on pump gas at 8500rpm. it is an all forged motor with dart pro1 heads on it. i was just kinda wantin to see what kind of reaction i would get when people ask about it. thanks and ill try to keep you all updated on it if you want me to.
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what and where is Checker

 

Point being that external pictures tell us nothing. The details just given are all we need to know to respond (well, you didn't say anything about the valve train, but other than that. . .).

You could make 500 HP at 6000 RPMs with a 400.

 

i could make 600 hp on a 400 but it would be something that has been done before and as of now i still have not found anyone with this setup. the valve train is a comp cam with .631 lift 248/252 duration(i think i am not good with memory so dont hold me to it) with solid roler lifters and 1.52 ratio rockers and 210 pound springs. i will try to find some of the internal pics but i dont really have very many good ones

 

Or 800 HP at 8500 RPM with a 400.

What did you use for rods and pistons?

 

it has manly h beam rods and i cant remember the brand forged dome top pistons. and i know that i could have made more power for same money with more ci but like i said i wanted something different and i think i got it. also in priceing parts i was only about $150 more to do this than an equal 400

 

What length rod?

 

6" if my memory is right and the pistons are a costume pin hight witch is where the more money had to be spent

 

I hope your running an auto tranny, with a super high stall converter, and some steep gears, cause that combo is not gonna be worth a crap for a street car. That sounds like a bonefide drag car or sprint car engine. Your torque numbers probably wont be worth a damn, especially down in the low range and barely acceptable in the mid range, and on a street car I'd say the tq is more important than hp.

Your running a crank with the same stroke as a 283 chevy, which I have personally owned two of and built one up, and even the one I built up which had over 300hp, the tq wasnt worth a damn, and the engine wasnt worth a damn under 4000rpm. It was great if I kept the rpm's up but for normal street driving I hated it. But if you really like these short stroke engine combo's I'd be thrilled to sell you my old 283 long block with under 20k miles. I would rather run a 305 than another short stroker. I love torque and these short stroke engines suck at making tq.

Im not knocking you for wanting something unique, but dont be unique at the expense of usable power. in reality, if you put that engine in a street car, you will rarely if ever be able to run it where it will shine.

Honestly I'd take a 400 with standard stroke and standard bore before I'd take your engine. And funny thing is, lets say you do end up with 500 hp at 8500rpm, what is your torque gonna be?

 

It would have to be an all race engine. Street use barely sees over 3000 rpm except in very short bursts. My race engine launches at 4500 and doesn't go below 6000 all the way down the track.

 

Unless you designed and assembled your own crank then I guarantee that combo has been done before since it's offered from a manufacturer with other customers thinking the same thing. It's been done. Not often, since it's pointless, but it has been done.

 

Studded 2 bolt main 400 block turning 8500 rpms. Sounds like a nice combo, you may wanna think about at least throwing a girdle on there. I wouldn't be too eager to see that engine speed continuously.....

Good luck!

Take pride in your project not the opinions of everyone else...........

 

thanks the only reason i wanted peoples opinions was to see how much people were going to make fun of me before they run it. and it has a t-56 going behind it so i am just going to have to make the "stall" whatever i want. thanks everyone for your opinions they are appreciated.

 

Good luck man.

 

If you've got the money to build it that way, you've got the money to change it if you dont like it. Good luck with it!

 

looks like a great combo for road racing and street use, lets go.

 

I built a one piece rear seal 302 tpi using a L99 3.0" crank, 5.94 rods, and 11 to 1 350 pistons. I got a compcam 210 220 cam (08-302-8) It needs to idle at 800rpm to get enough vacuum for the brakes. The idle is stable and does not stall. It's an auto trans. If I had a T56, it would be alot more streetable. It has instant throttle responds and good top end power. The problem is at cruising speed and below. The motor will just lug, unless you break the tires loose. I had 4.10 gears. It needs 4.30 or 4.56s. Then you loose the fuel mileage of the smaller engine. It still had more power than the 305 tpi i have now, due to the 4 inch bore. 305<302<350. I would have gone 327 if they made the crank. With the cam you have, I don't think the 4.125 bore will help the bottom end. Your idle will be 1200 rpm at least. Most people build 352 ( 400 block 327 crank) or 377 ( 400 block 350 crank). You have a T56, so you can control stalling and gear selection. 6th being .5 to 1 can cut 4.56s to 2.28. You better have a good drive shaft. On the bright side the motor will turn the water pump fast enough to keep the heads from cracking and you should have plenty of room between rods and the cam, unlike 383 or 400.
The small block was designed around the 3.0 inch crank. Chevy just stoked it 3 times.