making an old school sbc fit where there is an LT1.
I'm possibly buying a 96 z28 with an LT1 in it (go figure).
I then have a built short block sitting on a stand.
what would I have to do to be able to put the distributor to fit in the front and still use the cam that I have. I already know that I can just get a set of heads to make the intake fit.
let me know. thanks.

 

Okay, dumb question: Why not build the LT1?

If you insist on old school, you can do a crank trigger/distributor.

Hmmm, kind of what the LT1 does (only different and already there).

 

I want to use the block that I already built (383, new rods, pistons, crank, balanced, huge cam, plus all the machine work). could I just take the timing set off of the lt1 and put that onto my motor. I have a roller cam and it needs the button so that is why I'm asking this question. I don't plan on going carbed. I'd rather do the FI. If I can't use my block I'll probably end up selling it.

 

if the 383 indeed has a huge cam and will need to be turned 7k+, i would consider a single plane intake setup for injection.... and run an elbow/90mm throttlebody. you will then need to set it up with an aftermarket computer to allow the higher rpms, as well as compatibility with the old school dizzy.
this stuff is alot of money tho.

post up specs of the 383 and ill tell you whether you should sell it and build the LT1 instead.

 

Operating Range:
3200-7200 RPMDuration Advertised:292° Intake / 297° ExhaustDuration @ .050'' Lift:254° Intake / 260° ExhaustValve Lift w/1.5 Rockers:.582'' Intake / .588'' ExhaustValve Setting:.016'' Intake / .018'' ExhaustLobe Separation Angle:110°
jegs part# 249-12-773-8
solid roller cam

78 or older 2-bolt block bored .030" over
eagle 383 stroker crank
eagle I-beam rods
Keith black claimer pistons flat tops hypertectic
full floating wrist pins
main girdle to help compensate for not being a 4-bolt
every thing is balanced together
double roller timing chain also degree'd
new melling oil pump to go with it

with a 64cc combustion chamber I'd be somewhere between 11.0:1 and 11.3:1 I would have to be running aluminum heads

to add I really don't know what the differances are between the LT1 and the old blocks

 

LT1 has reverse flow cooling system, meaning the coolant goes through the heads first, then the block, opposite of the "original" small block. The water pump and distributor are driven off of the front of the cam. All of this means major changes to the block, heads, and intake manifold. Although they can be modified to fit, LT1 and Gen I stuff doesn't exchange.

On the other hand, LT1 heads flow pretty well. A bunch of people have stroked LT1's with very good results.

 

ok, you need to go with an aftermarket computer with that big cam. cheap would be a megasquirt unit, otherwise you can do a dfi, f.a.s.t., or whatever. plan on blowing $2k for the expensive setups.
i would for sure do a single plane converted to injection, with elbow and ~90mm+ throttlebody. run your dizzy in the back like a standard sbc and your golden.

make sure your running a good set of heads on it. dont stick a set of double humps on it like some people do. lol

 

ok it looks like I should sell my block then. I was pretty much just trying to save time on another build. If would have to mod the block just to make it work. that would't be worth it. thankyou for your input. Is there a kit to destroke the lt1 and make it a 327?

 

No reason to do that, LT1s have been known to turn 6700 on the stock bottom end and do it quite reliably. And to be honest, I would dump the cam and go with one of the XFI cams that Comp makes for the LT1, it will be more reliable and you can use the stock PCM, and intake...just go with some bigger injectors.

 

the reason i suggested an aftermarket computer is because this camshaft would want to turn more than 7,000. which is the stock computer's limit. so, basically, if you want to run an LT1 with the stock pcm, 7,000 rpms is your limit. youll have to either put a carb on it or aftermarket computer. and then the optisparks will start flying apart. lol

 

how would a piggyback do? I've been told to put the lt4 heads with a cam on and get like 500 ponnies from it. that should be enough for starters

 

LT4 stuff is a waste of money. get in touch with someone at Advanced Induction and get some ported LT1 castings with matching cam. it will make waaay more power than the factory LT4 stuff.

 

advanced induction looks like they got the good stuff. Thats something I'll look at in the future. that head and cam kit I mentioned is set up by jegs with lt4 heads, edelbrock intake with a GM hotcam. It's not really much now that I looked at it. If I'm going to spend that $ I'm just gonna get the good stuff.

 

For LT-1 top end and cam pkg, go to http://www.eportworks.com

 

Lloyd Elliot at the above link is probably the best around for LT1 heads, he has custom grind cams that will make the most power without having to turn the fool out of the engine that would require a full forged bottom end.

 

You gotta ditch the wipers and notch the cowl. Fits nice once it is in there.

EDIT: Sorry misread your question, I thought you asked if you needed to do anything to a 4th gen to fit an older sbc in it.

 

It'll be all good if it doesn't rain.

that's ok mistakes happen

does anybody make an LT1 dizzy that'll spin past 7k?