When to switch to Synthetic?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
When to switch to Synthetic?
Hey guys,
I've a dilemma that needs to be solved. I am putting the final touches on the new 350 that's now in my 84 T/A and how long should I wait till I put synthetic oil in it? This is a roller motor so I don't have the long break in period that the flat-tappet cams had. I know I'm going to put regular oil in it, prime it, then start it and let it run, probably a couple of times, and then change the oil. Should I stick with regular oil or will it be safe at this point, once we know there are no leaks or anything, to switch to the synthetic? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I've a dilemma that needs to be solved. I am putting the final touches on the new 350 that's now in my 84 T/A and how long should I wait till I put synthetic oil in it? This is a roller motor so I don't have the long break in period that the flat-tappet cams had. I know I'm going to put regular oil in it, prime it, then start it and let it run, probably a couple of times, and then change the oil. Should I stick with regular oil or will it be safe at this point, once we know there are no leaks or anything, to switch to the synthetic? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 42
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
GM's crate engine break-in procedure:
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 ACDelco oil filter (PN 251605610).
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.
As you said, with roller lifters, you can skip Step 3.
You can switch to synthetic at Step 12.
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 ACDelco oil filter (PN 251605610).
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.
As you said, with roller lifters, you can skip Step 3.
You can switch to synthetic at Step 12.
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,795
Likes: 15
From: St. Cloud, MN
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LS1383 in work
Transmission: Magnum F - to be installed
Axle/Gears: Zexel Torsen 3.73, 28-spline mosers
Re: When to switch to Synthetic?
GM's crate engine break-in procedure:
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 ACDelco oil filter (PN 251605610).
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.
As you said, with roller lifters, you can skip Step 3.
You can switch to synthetic at Step 12.
1. Always put safety first. If your car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.
2. Be sure to check the engine's oil level and prime the oil system.
3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPMs, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.
4. Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start-up and the smoothest idle possible.
5. Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.
6. After the engine has been running for 30 minutes, set the ignition timing (see install ignition section for timing specifications).
7. Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and loads on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPMs.
8. Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
9. Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations up to about 5000 RPMs (55 to 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coast back down to 20 MPH.
10. Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 ACDelco oil filter (PN 251605610).
11. Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPMs (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.
12. Change the oil and oil filter again.
13. Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles.
As you said, with roller lifters, you can skip Step 3.
You can switch to synthetic at Step 12.
Wow, outstandng Five7 I really appreciate it! We were just going to leave it up on the jackstands for the initial start up until we knew if we had any leaks or not. I'm also going to be running open headers because with my new 6qt oil pan, my hooker Y-pipe doesn't fit anymore.
So once I can drive it, I"m going to drive it strait to the exhaust shop and have them custom make one for me. 
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