Was planning on that (sort of already did last summer -went to the yard needing the spring spacers, previous owner thought he'd make it a cool low rider by removing the rear spacers so the car was all **** eyed, and took the rear coils with me out of the presumed X-305 -heads/intake gone motor but v8- I found), additionally I got a new full spring set with the rear end/front suspension purchase recently and was planning on putting them in and doing the fuel filter while I was in there.

that's undercoating? That's a thought...hmmm.

 

Ok, so I think I got an answer to this one.
According to my Chilton's, the 91 3.1L and nearly all thirdgen and early fourth gen(LT1) 5.7L fuel pumps psi as stated in the 'Tune Up Specifications' produce 41-47 psi of fuel pressure stock. This should mean that the existing fuel pump will work perfectly for any sbc I drop into Lucy at least up to the LS motors (understanding a carbed setup will require an inline regulator/reducer down to 6-8 psi or at least the disabling of the fuel pump).

So, why would I have to change the fuel pump to upgrade to a FI v8?

 

I replaced the rear drum cylinders last season also, so the fittings have already had there '10-15 years of rust' broken there...is there some other connection point I should be concerned about? I had just planned on removing any 'mounting' point on the rear axle, (the fasteners? how could I brake the lines removing the fasteners?) but I don't recall noting whether there were any other fitting points I should be concerned with.

A thought though on the rear brakes...with drums the hard line runs right into the brake cylinders...I'm thinking the hard lines in the front run into a flexible hose then into the front calipers, is this the same setup the rear calipers should have? or will I be bending the hard lines to mate directly with the calipers? Does that mean I have more plumbing to do? anyone know whether I could take the flexible hose off a yard set of front calipers (front lines are 5.5 metric diameter as are the rear lines after the 'T' connector I believe, I will have to double check) and then just plug them from the hard lines into the rear calipers?

 

POR-15 is not undercoating. It's an epoxy paint that dries to a very very hard surface to seal out water and prevent rust. Undercoating is usually a rubber spray-on coating. The problems with undercoating is that some will actually absorb water, holding it against the metal, and others don't stick very well over the long run or get scraped/rubbed/worn off.

With the V8 fuel pump change, I think Acclr8n was alluding to the flow rate, not the psi. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the V8 pumps have a higher GPH capacity than the V6 pump. If you're going carbed, I wouldn't worry about it, but LSX/LTX you might need the extra capacity. Especially if you're considering boost/nitrous.

For the brake lines, I'm not sure the front rubber lines would be long enough to reach from the T to the calipers. You can run hard line straight to the calipers since they are bolted to the axle tubes and won't be moving. I would go hard line for reliability. They aren't as likely to develop cracks or pinholes or dry rot like rubber lines will. They also won't swell under pressure/heat.

 

ok...how much does that usually run?

GPH....I don't think I have or have seen that stat. Can we get a numerical comparison? Does anyone know the GPH ratings?

I wouldn't be running from the T to the calipers, I'd try to go from the stock endpoints (the old cylinder connection) to the caliper...I worry about bending the old hardlines for fear of breaking them (especially after I found out how much fun it is to try and plumb the brake system

 

Sorry, haven't figured out the multiple quote-thingy, so here are the answers in order.

1 - Depends on where you get it of course. Directly from POR-15 is 44.95/quart + shipping

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

You can usually find it on Ebay for cheaper I believe. There is also a similiar product called Rust Bullet made by a different company but does the same thing. You can usually find a banner ad for them on this site.


2 - Looks like I may have been wrong about the flow rates. Looking at Autozone's website, both the V6 and V8 replacement fuel pumps flow 40 GPH.


3 - So you want to go from the old brake line fittings that threaded into the wheel cylinders to the new calipers? That seems like more hassle than its worth, assuming you can find a short enough adapter and the right fitting.

If it was my car, I would replace everything on the axle with brand new lines, including the rubber line that goes from the chassis line to the axle. There's no need to mess around with flaring and cutting line. Just measure the lengths you need and head to your local Autozone/Advance/Checker/PepBoys/etc and they have brake lines already cut to length and flared with the fittings on the lines. You would just have to bend them to fit. It would be a good time to upgrade to a stainless steel braided brake line as well.

 

I know some of the earlier rear brake setups came with hardline to them from the factory, it makes it a pain when it comes time to replace the pads tho. I'd personally try to use rubber or steel braided between the hardline to the calipers just to make them easier to service.

 

Sweet...so a 'rust proofing' job...not a bad idea

I saw the identical PSI specs in my book, I hadn't noticed the parts sites gave GPH ratings, I was pondering how they could both put out the same PSI and not the same GPH unless one used larger lines...good to know, no fuel pump job required

Well, after checking on the fittings the front calipers and rear calipers take the same tube nut and the two front lines(pipes) are the same size as the rears pipes after the 'T' fitting so I though I could just plug front tubes into the rear end lines and then into the calipers without dealing with replumbing the brake system again.

One problem with that, I went to the parts stores looking for a damn 6mm line to complete the bias adjuster assembly I put in. Every one looked at me like I had 4 heads when I told them I was looking for 6mm line, (like I was seeking a sasquatch or something) I saw what they had on the shelves and as far as matching the stock brake lines it's a big problem, never mind finding the right fittings with metric bubble flares. In actuality I never did find the right fittings, I had to overflare the stock 6mm line to mate properly with 1/4" (6.35mm) fittings. and as far as metric bubble flare tools go availability was nil and buying one, well I just wouldn't use it often enough to justify having one handy. To go standard would require me to change the entire brake system over from MC to calipers...that's a huge job and alot of unnecessary time and money (that I'm trying to save for my engine upgrade), granted would be nice, but just not seeing an entirely new brake system as a priority. But I digress, I'm thinking for ease of changeover mating stock fron tubes to the native pipes and then into the calipers might be my easiest route, I can find a couple good one's out of a yard real cheap and try, if it won't work, then I'm out ten bucks, and if it does then for ten bucks I've solved the problem cheap, easy, and perfectly functional right?

Although if anyone can verify what I'm thinking that's be great

 

That's my plan, hardline to rubber to caliper

 

I wasn't aware the fittings were the same sizes front and rear. Makes sense though. Should work just fine to use front rubber/braided lines for the rears then.

I wasn't suggesting redoing the whole setup, just from the rear axle rubber line to the calipers. I figured it would be standard sizes and they would have them in stock. At least now I know for when I go to do this.

I don't blame you for trying to go as cheaply as possible. With my wife not working so she can stay home with the kids, a truck that needs the engine and transmission rebuilt, and a Super Beetle project car(for the wife), I don't exactly have an astronomical budget to spend on my car either. That being said, brakes are one thing I don't bother looking in the junkyards for. If you can find them and they are obviously brand new, go for it. For the $17 apiece I paid for the front rubber lines on my car, its worth it to me to buy them new.

 

You could always get the rear rubber lines for the newer rear disc cars..

 

Well, I know the caliper inlets are the same threads/inlet....what I'd need to verify is that the hose inlets mate the same in the front/back...otherwise I will have to convert fittings (which still may be easier that line replacement).

Don't get me wrong, I'd prefer to go legit stock at least, but I'm thinking the rubber line doesn't normally start at the 'T' (if it does then maybe I can just buy replacements, not universals, but I need someone with the setup to verify this, I think someone said they run hard pipe right into the calipers stock, and I'm trying to avoid bending, and possibly breaking, the hard lines becuase of the replacement lines prospect) and then go to the calipers in the same way the front rubber lines don't start from the combo block, but I could be wrong, I just know what I ran into trying to buy brake lines and fittings in the stock sizes. PITA.

Don't get me wrong...it isn't so much 'cheap' I'm going for as 'cost-effective'. I want to do a great job, but in a cost conscious manner, frankly if I had the money I'd have paid somebody to do all this, still not know much about the car, and just have fun with my toy but I find working on her to be relaxing and fun in itself so I'm getting by. ,
$17 -that's not bad, the only reason I'd think of pulling them out of the yard is because I'm unsure whether they'll mate correctly and a $10 experiment (if I can find good yard rubber lines) is more than 3 times less painful than a $35 dollar experiment (once I get brake fluid on them they may call them 'installed' and not take the return if they don't fit), but if I can run stock rubbers from the 'T' to calipers then great, I'll go that way definately.

Can anyone confirm the setup? Someone must have done a rear brake conversion on one of these cars.

 

On a positive not, I'm looking over NAPA's site for replacement hose...I've verified the wheel cylinder fittings and the like and it appears I can buy stock hoses, but the hoses list one end threaded M10x1.0 but then the other end is 'unthreaded' and the picture shows it as a 90 degree open block....what the hell is that and how do I use an unthreaded fitting??

 

I think we're talking about 2 different rubber lines here. The rubber line I am talking about connects to the T and then to the hard line that runs to the back of the car from the MC. Or in your case, the adjustable Prop valve.

From the T then, it would run hard line to each caliper. The threads at the caliper and on the T should be a standard size. AFAIK, there is no rubber line between the calipers and the T on the OEM setup.

As for the junkyard hoses, I didn't realize you were just using them for a test fit. You're right, I don't know of any parts store that will take parts back after they have been installed if they don't fit. Which is funny because most of the guys behind the counter in the stores near me don't know much about cars at all.

 

Ok, so in the fluid flow path...prop -> hardline -> rubber hose(center) ->'T' connector -> hardline direct to calipers?

So why then does NAPA list a left/right rear brake hose for an 87 z28 4-wheel disc setup?

As standard as any of the other lines/fittings I suppose. So again why does the parts store have the rear hoses listed? Check it out, I just have no idea how I would connect that hose to the existing rear line

I get that more and more these days...the 'my god this guy has 4 heads' look, the 'what the hell is he talking about', the 'why did I decide to help this guy', the 'why couldn't he just be looking for brake pads' look.

granted the rear hoses they list are much shorter than the front hoses (yet somehow more expensive), but both appear to have the same fitting sizes, I figure I can always tie off any extra hose if I grab a good front yard pair of fronts (I doubt I'd ever find rear hoses)....but my big question right now is about the 'unthreaded' end fitting (seems sononymous across the different part stores), what is that about and how would I use that??

 

The unthreaded end is just that, unthreaded. The "block" looking end is the banjo fitting. A bolt fits through the hole in the center and screws into the caliper. The bolt has a pair of holes near the head and a hollow center. The fluid flows through the hose, into the banjo fitting and around the bolt where it enters the small holes and goes through the bolt into the caliper.

I only see 1 rear hose listed there for the passenger side. I don't see one for the driver's side. There is another rear hose listed, but that is the rubber hose that goes to the hard line coming back from your prop valve. You have the fluid path correct. What you need to do is look at the calipers(or post a pic) where the brake lines connects. If you have a large flat area around the hole with a raised bump on one side, you need to use the rubber hose you're talking about with the banjo fitting. If there is only the hole for a fitting to thread into, then you need to run the hard line direct to the caliper. The banjo fittings are always used on the front calipers, you can look at those to see what I mean.

 

Oh ok, so I need to look into a special bolt (a banjo bolt?)

This is the one I'm looking at...seems the same hose for either side (where does it indicate passenger side?)

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpage...ke+Hose+-+Rear

That's referenced as the 87 4 wheel disc rear replacement hose (87 z28 rear is the rear disc setup I have)...so I guess I need two banjo bolts as well, but with the same front/rear fittings those will be definate yard finds

Once I realized there was a rubber hose there yes, the 'center' notation tipped me off (initially puzzled about it though )

I will look for the 'bump', the area around the inlet is flat but I hadn't paid much attention to a 'bump'...a quick check

I think I'm getting the idea. With the hoses in supply and looking at the replacement, and banjo's always on the fronts, I'm thinking it's banjo's in the rear too....will confirm shortly.

 

The banjo bolts I would get at the yard, if the threads are the same on the calipers, the bolts should be the same. They aren't a wear item.

The "bump" is there for the banjo fitting to rest up against so that it can't turn as you tighten the bolt, should be easy to find.

Went back and looked at the pics you posted again of the calipers. Never noticed it before, but they look identical to the calipers that will be on the front wheels. If that is really the case, then you'll be using the banjo bolts for sure

 

Think I may have to...didn't seem to have them available for sale in the parts stores.

Just to be sure it's a bump ON the flat surface of the inlet. I check and pick it just to confirm.

 

Crude pic illustrating what I mean by the "bump."

According to Napa's site, the inlet(banjo bolt) threads are the same. So you should have no problems pulling a couple bolts from a JY car's front calipers and using them. Just be sure to use new copper washers. The get crushed to provide the seal and are not reusable.

 

Ok, so it's really more of a backstop than a bump.

 

Yes, you could call it that.

 

Having just gone through all this, the Delco disk brakes have two hoses on the rear - the chassis line to the axle, which has threaded/flared holes for a line going to each side, plus a hole for the mount bolt that holds it on the axle; and the right side hose, which is what is linked above. The left side just has a solid line directly to a banjo fitting on the caliper.

The banjo bolts are the same regardless of year or front or back (and they are available new). The threaded hose end changed from SAE to metric early on ('84, if memory serves). My car is '82 and SAE; finding those rear hoses was very difficult (went to 4 different parts chains, including NAPA, before I found them both - Checker/O'Reily and Carquest each had one of them available special order).

 

Ok, phew...I'm confused now...Delco disc brakes....is that an aftermarket or stock setup? I had decided I was going to hook up 2 hoses on the rear (one from each caliper, into the existing steel pipe(to minimize bending and the chance of breaking). The caliper setup is the offset setup with one caliper in front and one caliper behind the rotor....so we have all our terms straight...So you're saying from the unified hard line running to the back, goes into a hose then into a 'T' fitting, from the 'T' it goes one hard line to the caliper, the other side of the 'T' goes hard line>into hose>into caliper.

You're right there, 84 was the year they converted from SAE to Metric fittings (had to make sure the car I got the rear MC line I pulled was 84-92).

So with everything I'm hearing, I'm thinking I CAN just rip out two JY front brake hoses (condition dependent) and banjo fittings for like ten bucks and short of securing the extra tube length, I should have everything I need to hook up the rear calipers to the existing lines...yes?

 

Sorry for the confusion on the fuel pump and not getting back sooner. Your HP goals set in the beginning would best be served by a higher flowing aftermarket unit.

Check out Rock Auto for your flex lines. You can keep your existing center hose that jumps from the chassis to the moving axle. Ends in a T-block. If you did manage to connect hardlines directly to the calipers, pad changes would be a PITA.

I'm well accustomed to the four headed look myself at the auto parts stores. Murray's/NAPA/Autozone they will have 3/16" (a.k.a 4.75mm) metric bubble flare line. This is the correct line to go from the T-block to the rear caliper flex lines. It will have the M10x1.0 tube nuts on it. Measure yourself but a 12" for the driver side and 30" ish for the passenger side.

 

Ok, yes that I can wrap m head around , let's chalk 'Fuel system upgrades' into the post-engine rebuild/install category. It'll be there, after I'll be addressing squeezing the bits to meet/exceed 400hp.

That's what I was thinking...right now I believe I can just pull so JY hoses and banjos of a front caliper setup (84+). I actually have a car in mind, but weather is going to be crap here until next week

I was planning on keeping the existing hardlines intact and just running the hoses from the old wheel cylinder connections into the calipers. That should work well shouldn't it?

 

LSx motors requires 58-60 psi, your pump would not support it, unless you were to toss a carb on it.

 

Good to know....what about the LTx motors?

Either way, I think I should forgo that until I decide/find the 'right' motor. 400hp out of a truck Gen I carbed is also possible, though the LTx would be perfect in my book, LSx motors are so pricey. A budget 400hp, a Toy Street car, not a track dragster (yet) ...400hp and I can compete with all but the top line vettes

 

Delco was the early stock disk brake system.

The front and rear hoses are different. Only the banjo bolts themselves are the same.

 

My understanding is that they differ in length only. The fitting sizes and banjo bolts are the same according to the replacement part specs. I figured I could just secure the extra length (and the extra length may provide me a bit of reach flexibility with the converted stock cross year setup I'm thinking).

 

Fuel pump: Your stock one will run a stock LT1 if it isn't tired.

The flex hoses are different front to rear. I can see where a front might bolt on a rear caliper. Rear wouldn't attach to the front. As concerned as you were about the keeping the stock combo valves safety features, I'm suprised you are compromising here. you are going to have to bend the old drum lines 90 degrees to connect to flex lines and risk cracking them. I really hate plumbing, but the 3/16 axle hard lines are readily available and easiest to do. At least do those so I can sleep at night.

 

That's what my book and the part sites were saying, so I figured it'd be ok, at least until I build the performance engine for her, then of course fuel delivery and spark delivery are the next two concerns.

Oh I know that...the rears hoses stock are only 11", the fronts are a 19" and a 21"...so far that's the only difference I can see.

I don't think the rear lines are 3/16 lines...I was pretty sure they were all metric from 84 forward and I know I couldn't buy the 6mm stock line or fittings when I was trying to fab up the bias adjuster assembly, I got four-headed looks for even asking, with example parts in hand -granted the rear hardlines are 5/5.5mm (on par with the front hardlines coming from the combo). I know they're the M10x1.0 fittings at the wheel cylinder (as they are at the front hard line to flex hose connection), I know the calipers have the same banjo bolts. Yes, I think I will have to bend the hard line just enough to pull the line back away from the backing plate, I don't know about 90 degrees and certainly I can spread the bend away from a single location on the pipe, but that's minimal compared to the suggestion of running hard lines directly into the calipers (which I'm writing off as erroneous because it would make rear caliper service ridiculous and I can't see chevy engineering something so a**-backwards, and if they did, I'm comfortable throwing that design out), and if I did crack the line I'd have to replace it anyways somehow.

You have me concerned now about the safety part of this though, can you elaborate on what's unsafe about my planned design? So far the only difference I can see is that the front hoses are a little longer than the rears would be, but that's fairly easily secured (and not going from the stock location I might need a little extra slackover stock rear hoses).

 

The flex line blocks that the banjo bolts go through have more material on the rears than the fronts for anti-rotation. I don't know what the significance is. Safety? That and bending the old crusty axle hard lines. I've had lines start leaking after a couple weeks having messed with them. My son's '94 Caddy.

The front to rear line is 6mm with oddball fittings as discussed before. At the T-block the individual caliper hard lines go to smaller 4.75mm with M10x1.0 metric bubble flare lines same as the front that the auto parts stores carry.
3/16"=0.1875" 0.1875"(25.4)=4.7625mm
The 3/16 and 4.75mm are the same.

 

Ok, so I need to compare the replacement flex lines from the auto store...that's a difference beyond length that the specs don't tell.

Ahhh...I did see 4.75mm lines but I thought them too small, they were cheap too, so I wouldn't mind replacing them, I just didn't think they'd be available and hunting sounded like alot of work....ok so I'll change over the lines and hoses.

 

Yeah, sorry about that. I was trying to think of the easiest way to run the lines. I didn't think it through completely and forgot all about needing to move the calipers to replace the pads. That's what I get for trying to type replies while at work.

 

No worries info is info...

 

The factory set-up, for whatever reason, was a hard line on the driver side with a generous bend, and a rubber line on the passenger side, going to the caliper.

Servicing the driver side would require removing the line (banjo bolt would probably be the simplest). But, you should be flushing and bleeding the system regularly anyway, right?

 

We can beat that. We can make it better, faster, stronger. We have the technology.

I do believe that I will eventually have to service the rear brakes and bending line to change pads just doesn't seem sensible...

These days yup....I keep changing the brake system config and it seems like it keeps getting bled every month

Ok, so I'm definately in agreeance then that the stock setup was impractical. So now to do better, problem is to do better I'm going to custom.

So the reason not to use front hoses in the rear was because the single rear hose banjo fitting was thicker to prevent 'anti-rotation', but in the stock setup the other had a hard line running directly to the caliper (what about 'anti-rotation' on that caliper?)....What is anti-rotation and why would it only be a consideration for one side? (keep in mind this is the opposing caliper setup, passenger side ahead of the rotor, driver's side behind it.)

 

The anti-rotation is the shape and amount of material around the hole. It runs into a feature cast into the caliper so the hose only fits one way. I haven't seen a caliper with a hard line going to it. someone else will have to explain that.

 

Is that the "bump stop" that 92RS_TTop was referring to earlier in the thread when I was learning about banjo bolts and how the flex hoses connect with the square unthreaded end?
As in, the backside (opposite the hose) of the square unthreaded end in sits up against this bump/anti-rotation stop to keep the unthreaded square end from turning around the banjo bolt?

So I will have to verify that both calipers have this anti-rotation (bump?) stop since one caliper was meant to have a hardline run to it and may not have this anti-rotation stop (since I have an extra pair of front calipers I may also compare them to the rear in regards to the stop size and placement for record and the possibility of using the less expensive but longer front hoses), in addition to comparing the actual square hose ends at the store.

Even if they did, I don't want to run a hard line to the caliper...the design defies common sense as far as servicing the rear brakes is concerned. I don't want to have to bend/brake a pipe or disconnect and bleed the brake system every time I change a pad/boot in the rear, so I will certainly be running hose into caliper and I can chalk it up to 'improvements' over factory stock.

Damn, this is going to be the best modified stock 4 wheel disc setup in an RS ever. . I'm going to be so proud of this brake system. I can't wait till we get to engine building.

 

Ok..so my move is complete, I have a garage (with 4 non-functional shop lights to fix and a door I needed to hammerback into the track) ...settling in and get things situated and setup, but should start on the rear end swap over the next few days.

 

Ok, so after checking things out I bought two new rear brake hoses, I see what you mean now by the anti rotation stop, incidentally the extra pair of front calipers I have had the hoses still attached so it became clear why I couldn't use them on the rear, but it got me a pair of banjo bolts for the rear anyways. So today, the '07 focus is going in for service to reactivate it's 'road use status' and the camaro can be disabled for as long as it will take and I won't be out a car (as much s I wanted to fall back on the bike the weather is just not dependable enough to give me a week+ of reliably good riding weather) So if all goes well Lucy will be up on the stands tonight (whether I start pulling bolts today/tmw has yet to be determined, lol.)

 

I skimmed through, and see where you are mentioning having 1LE front brakes.. but missed where you got them from.

 

I haven't been focusing on the front (end) brakes yet , I thought 1LE was the standard code for that year being rear drum/front disc, but I could certainly be wrong...the ones that are on there atm are stock 91 v6 front end components.

on a more chronological note, the garage is outfitted, I'm going to NAPA to pick up the rear sway bar kit now and then I'm going to the garage to start the old rear end removal (she's already up on the jack stands, the fridge has enough beer, and the gear head boys are coming by)...woohoo, very excited

 

Yep your wrong, haha no offense. 1LE cars are pretty rare, read up if you wish: http://www.1le.net/hpp.html

 

Update he rear end change ha beun I'm now in tear down and have about 90% of the rear out. I'm a little hung up atm and could use some advice.The lower contol arms bolts seem to be seized in theinner tube of thbushing. I have not been able to get any of the four bolts to budge (removed all the the nuts just fine) Any suggestions as to how to get them out of there?

 

Ok, so I know it's been a bit waiting for an update. Got hung up getting the rear out....lower control arm bolts seized in the bushings, managed to socket press one of them out (bent 4 craftsmen 8" C-clamps to do that), had to go at the other one with the angle grinder. Long story short I got the old one out. , yup replaced the old axle lines and fit up the hoses for the discs. Unfortunately my daily driver got totalled so I didn't get the chance to really go over everything as it suddenly became a rush to get a drivable car on the road (not that I took shortcuts, but I didn't get to polish up the underbody first, It's not going anywhere though and wasn't an immediate need). Other than that I got the rear in. Now Lucy is half of a B4C/Z28.
4 wheel disc locking rear upgrade complete!!

Next two things as I see it towards the engine swap (the engine of which I intend to rebuild in the garage over the winter in prep for install next season, so shopping recommendations would be great at this point as I should find it over the next couple months), are the front steering/suspension and subframe connectors.

Can anyone think of anything else I need to consider before finishing out driveline (pretty closed I would think at this point, minus engine/tranny of course), suspension (rear's completed, all 4 lowering springs are onhand for the engine drop, full 87 z28 front assembly on hand), and frame (connectors to be bought, probably close to the end of this season)?

It's coming along ....can't wait to get to body/interior.

 

Ok....so my ball joints are going and a tirerod has some play in it and the drivers side coil is sagging, so my next endevour will be to tackle the front steering/suspension. I have the v8 Z28 front clip/brakes (got with the rear end I just finished installing)...not worried about the brakes (may rebuild/swap out the calipers if they fit the knuckle which I believe they do) right now rotors/pads new from last year.

What I need to know (other than coils/struts which will go in after I pull the old motor and before I put in the new one) what's different from the v6 RS to the v8 Z28 suspension/steering. Thicker links/stablizer? thicker tirerods? steering gear/pitman arm differences?

and as long as we're discussing it...are the rotors bigger? They are both single piston calipers...

 

Another problem arose, odd voltage readings and a buzzing noise out of the cluster. Swapped out the ingition switch, installed borg-warner replacement (spec'd to the v8 if there's any difference). It's in it's running, it's tight, it's nice. Now that she's running again, back to the front suspension.

 

The brakes are exactly the same. Most of the front steering/suspension is the same with the exception of the springs, struts, front sway bar and if removed from an Iroc car the wonder bar. Also some cars came with fast ratio steering boxes