alright well my current engine (350 tbi) has a knock and is eventually gonna blow. i want to put another tbi in it so i dont have to change everything around. but i have a 350 crate engine thats carburated. i need a complete list from somebody on exactly EVERYTHING that i need to buy/change/get rid of. i like carburated engines better than tbi, but i dont wanna go from tbi for the simple reason that everything is gonna be different. but i DO want it to be carburated because i can actually work on them. im going carburated. so please SOMEBODY either point me to the right thread, or tell me in a list of absolutely everything i need to change and buy along with how much you guys think this is all gonna cost. i dont wanna start the project thinkin i have enough money, then have to stop half way through cause im outta cash.

so main questions, what all do i gotta do and how much is this gonna be.


let me tell you i already got the 350, it has intake, carb, heads, everything that can be bolted on the motor it has.

so come on guys, help me out??

 

Check the "welcome to the carburetor forum" sticky in the top section of the Carburetor forum. There's a link there to an article about the conversion in that sticky.

(Really, a "bump" after 21 minutes? Patience, Grasshopper. . . )

 

lol im sorry i know, i know. it was a quick bump but i gotta get off soon and i want info now lol

sorry bout the early bump



OH! and thanks for the swing in the right direction.

 

okay so i have a question about the AFPR. what is the AFPR? how much does it cost??

 

alright sorry that was a dumb question lol

got that one figured out.

next question though, i read the sticky about making your car into a carb'd engine. sounds good and all but he said after your done to go under your dash pull the computer out and burn it. sounds great. id love to burn the effing thing. but dont you need your computer to make sure your transmission shifts right and the fuel pumps right and everything else??? or am i mistaken..


this is an automatic tranny btw.

somebody please explain lol

 

Fuel pump, yes. Unless you rewire it to work without the computer.

Transmission shift, no. The transmission is internally mechanically controlled with input from the throttle cable - the TV cable - which is a critical function and needs to be properly set up. Basically you need a throttle arm corrector bracket.

The computer also controls the torque converter lock-up, which will not function as designed with the TB removed. You need to make provision for it because it is critical to transmission longevity as well.

 

so you think itd be a good idea to keep the computer in it? id like to pull every stupid wire out that i can (i wont cause ill screw somethin up.) how tough is it to rewire your fuel pump to work without a computer? i know how to get the torque converter to stop as it was in the sticky, but what about the fuel pump?

 

Just get on Summit or Jegs, buy a matchings Edelbrock or Holley Cam, intake, and carb, and buy a new distributor, maybe a new throttle cable. Once you get all of that (dont forget gaskets, and dont forget your 700R4 kickdown bracket if you get a Holley), pull all of thsoe wires aside, being sure to label the "key on hot", and install your cam, intake, carburator, and distributor following standard installation proceedures (get a Chiltons AND Haynes), remember you want Cyl #1 at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke with the rotor pointing towards it while installing the distributor. Once its all installed, run your hot wires and be done with it. Tune it up and go. What you want to do is about 1 days work if you are intermediate. Otherwise, get a buddy, and do it over a weekend.

 

For the fuel I made a sump, and ran a holley blue pump w/ regulator.

Things that tend to get overlooked.....
lockup kit for the 700r4
fan and fuel pump wiring
throttle linkage and kickdown linkage (specific for carb/trans)
14x3 air cleaner should fit, but WILL BE CLOSE (mine hit the padding on the hood)

I think that's the main stuff. Most of the wiring for gauges, dizzy, alt., starter, a/c, and whatever else can be reused.

Good luck.

 

No problem changing from a tbi to carb engine. Just leave all the computer componets disconnected. This will be a problem if you live in an area that requires emmision testing though. You'll also have to use a vaccum advance distributer with the engine swap. Also your check engine light will stay on. Simple fix though, just take out the bulb in the dash.

 

on the fuel pump, i think what theyve been doing is striaght wiring the fuel pump off the switch and using a fuel presure regulator

 

when i switched mine to carbed i didnt worry about the fuel pump. yes the computer tells the pump when to start pumping, but there is a backup system which i use as my primary system. once the oil switch/sender starts reading oil pressure it sends voltage to the fuel pump. if the car has been sitting awhile and you try to start it it will take longer to start. reason being, there is no fuel in the fuel bowls so you have to crank the motor untill you build pressure then the pump will kick on. but if it is only sitting a week or so there is still fuel in the fuel bowls so when you pump the gas it will start right up. i have been doing it this way for about 1 and a half years with no problems.

 

so you just left it all alone?? didnt put a new pump in or a fuel pressure regulator?? im def looking for the cheapest way possible and if i dont have to spend a 100 on a fuel pump then im not going to.

 

i am sorry i should have talked about the regulator also. yes i had to install a fuel pressure regulator also. i used a mallory 4309 i think is the number. just make sure whatever one you use that it is a return style so you dont burn up the pump. it is easy to hook up. just read the instructions that come with it. i found one on here that was cheap so just look around. i just used the stock fuel pump. there is a power limit on the pump though. something like 450 or 500 hp. once i hit that i will have to swap pumps. but i can rev my 350 to 6500 and not have a lean condition. let me know if you have more questions.

 

For the fuel pump, some cars will still run as described but some don't.. I don't know which years and models but I know my 1982 CFI z28 most certainly would not. I just bypassed th fuel pump relay so the pump always runs when the key is on. Its easy and works great. The is a post about this in the north california section on this site about this issue and it details how to do this.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...id=p2759.l1259

check it out, is this what i need? its the fuel pressure regulator so does it look right? quick input guys cause its the auction is bout to end!

 

no its not. it doesnt have a return option. try this-- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...1%7C240%3A1318

thats what you need.

 

thanks 91camaro racer. glad i asked before i bid on it lol

appreciate it
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hey am i gonna need a fuel pressure gauge to?? pretty sure i do.. any suggestions for that to?? like what brand..?

 

pm sent. as for the fuel gauge i used this one--http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku and this--http://store.summitracing.com/partde...part=SUM-G1710 the fittings all depend on how big your fuel lines are

 

thanks 91 camaro racer. your pm helped a lot and i got it all figured out now.

 

not a problem man thats what we are here for!!!