The oil pan I have for my 555 wont clear the stock k member in my 86. It's a one piece rear main seal. Anyone know of an oil pan that will fit? Also my car was a v6 car, what springs will I need? What year s10 steering will fit? Oh and what headers will fit?

 

What pan is currently on it? Anything other than a truck pan should fit. I use a standard Moroso 7 quart pan on mine and even have my engine dropped down lower. The center link is flipped over and by dropping the center link, I can remove the pan with the engine still in the car. I also use a tubular K-member but still used the same pan with a factory K-member. I just couldn't have the engine as low as it is now. Best guess is anything aftermarket or a pan from a 91-93 454SS will work. The 454SS is a Mark V block. I don't know if the Gen VI blocks use the same one piece seal pan.

I ran V6 springs in my car for years before finally putting Moroso trick springs in the front. Springs hold up the weight of the car. Spring rate decides how much extra weight they can carry when excessive loads are put on them such as cornering. RS cars have a light spring rate and give a smooth, soft ride. Cars like Z28 and WS6 have a heavy spring rate for handling but also give a firmer, stiff ride. An aluminum head and aluminum intake BBC doesn't weigh much more than a factory stock SBC

S10 box from a 1984+ is a direct fit. You want the version with the 4 bolt top cover. The manual steering box only came in S10's that came with the 2.5L 4 cylinder but not all 4 cylinder S10's have manual steering.

Generally, a BBC swap header such as the Hooker Supercomps is recommended. They are however only a street header and not much good for anything above 454 CID. They have 1-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. A big engine needs big headers to breath. I use Ed Quay headers on my 540. www.edquay.com 2-1/4" primaries and 4" collectors. Expect to pay at least $1000 for a set. The small sizes start at $600. Big headers are not cheap and unless you have a tube chassis car, you need headers specific to the car. An off the shelf set will not fit.

Is this 555 a short or tall deck block?

 

Thanks, its a short deck. I'm runnin brodix aluminum heads, aluminum intake, all forged internals, 1050 carb calibrated for e85, cant wait to get it down the track, I think the pan actually is a truck pan, I'll prob get one from moroso. I was wondering how tall of a cowl induction hood I would need to clear my setup? Whats your setup and how much fiberglass is on your car? How much does it weigh? I'm tryin to get an estimate of what mine will run.

 

You can go to my web site for all the car specs, or at least last years specs. Click on the link in my sig. The only thing fiberglass is the hood. Windows are all Lexan and rear deck lid is a sheet of aluminum. I need to get a new race weight after redoing the cage a few months ago but last years race weight was 3045 pounds. Car, driver, fuel etc sitting on the start line.

I run an Edelbrock tunnel ram with two 4.1" toilets on alcohol (methanol) that flow 1800 CFM each. Over the winter, I just changed out a set of unported 310 Canfield heads for a set of ported to the max Dart 360 heads. The head swap should be good for another 100 hp but I won't know until I get some track time. With the old heads, the engine was running out of air at 7400 rpm but still made around 850 HP based on vehicle weight and 1/4 mile MPH.

My hood has a 2-1/2" cowl with a 4-1/2" low profile scoop on top of it. The top of the toilets are about 2" under the scoop. I don't run air filters but it's also not street legal.

A 4" cowl is more than enough for a typical carb system. You might need to use a drop base filter with a lower cowl.

 

Wow I thought our cars wheighed more than that. I would be happy runnin the times that you are, I hope my car can do it. It's gonna be another month or two until I have it race ready. I'll have glass hood, maybe front fenders, lexan hatch, it's back halfed, powerglide, ford 9 inch, four link, coil overs, 10 point mild steel cage, aluminum dash. I can't wait to get it done.

 

With a little hammer work, and I do mean little, I was able to use a '94 Suburban 454 oil pan, using Moroso 62510 and 62610 soplid mounts. As for the steering box, beware that the Camaro pitman arm is a different length than the S-10 arm, so you'll need to swap the camaro arm onto the s-10 box. I found this out last week trying to put the camaro box into my '86S-10, partly for the ratio, and partly because I want my s-10 to have power steering.

 

Third gens do weigh a lot more than that. A typical factory stock car is around 3500 pounds. Mine is a completely gutted out race car. Putting the new cage in this spring, I weighed everything and just the cage is close to 200 pounds. When I did the back half, it only took 20 pounds off the car. The car is probably heavier now than last year because of all the extra tubes I added with the new cage. I've also managed to remove a bit of weight. I'm hoping the race weight is still under 3200 pounds. Heavy cars are hard on parts.

Fiberglass fenders are not a huge weight reduction in relation to their cost. Fiberglass doors would be a very good investment for weight reduction. When I took off my original doors with power everything, they were 105 pounds each. Although I haven't weighed them, I'm guessing my current doors are around 40-50 pounds each and they're still steel.

My Lexan back window doesn't open. It's riveted to the body. The aluminum deck lid is attached with Dzus fasteners so I can remove it if I ever need to access the battery which is hardly ever. I have boost posts mounted at the rear.

#1 rule for weight reduction in a race car. If it's not required for speed or safety, get rid of it. There's a lot of hidden weight in a third gen.

 

I want fiberglass doors but the only ones I can find are for a z28 or iroc. Anyone know where to find bas model doors with no ground effects? Did you make the hatch yourself? Harwood sells one that I thought about getting, I need to be able to access my fuel cell. I have gutted my doors but I would still like fiberglass. Mine is almost completely guuted except for bumpers, I'll get to it eventually. I think I'm gonna fab a piece of sheet metal to cover the space between the hood and the windshield.

 

I made my own rear window and deck lid. I cut out the majority of the seal lip. The Lexan is slid under the body skin then pulled back into an aluminum channel that's just under the deck lid. There's only a few pop rivets around the edge that attaches the Lexan to the body skin. I made some support brackets along the rear cage tubes to hold up the center of the Lexan and secured it with some Dzus fasteners. It's impossible for the Lexan to fall out and there's no way air can get under it at high speed. My car is not water or air tight. Windows will leak if caught out in the rain while at the track.

The deck lid is a piece of aluminum with the factory spoiler bolted onto. It's held on with 7 Dzus fasteners along the sides and leading edge. There's no seal under it and you can reach under the back and put your fingers into the car. It's purely cosmetic and very lightweight.

My fuel cell is up front (see above picture) so I have no need to access the rear.

Did you cut the crash bar out of the doors also?

 

I'll be cuttin the crash bars out this weekend. I'm gonna run it with glass in it for now until I get it tuned right and have the money to do lexan.

 

Remove or cover the glass with cardboard before you cut the crash bar out. Using a torch or plasma cutter shouldn't be too bad but if you use a grinder or cutoff wheel, the sparks will pit the glass.