Josh 91RS

thinking of changing out my 305 to a 350 or 383. Wondering how much more work it takes to put the 383 in compared to a 350, and how much more worth it, it is performance wise. Would i be better off putting a 383 in, or just 350 with some mods. Mainly just stoplight racing, everyday driver. Please help me out guys or at least give me good places to go reasearch it.

Monkie

350 is a 383. Just bored out.

------------------
1992 Camaro RS 3.1L
T5 Manual 5 speed
Open Air Intake
Z-28 Exhaust

Josh 91RS

I realize that, I have a 350 4bolt main from an 84-85 truck. I am trying to decide whether i should bore it out to a 383 or just stick with the 350. Im wondering if once i bore it out it will still be just as easy to hook up as the basic 350. Im also wondering if boring it out is worth it, or if its much of a difference to rebuild the 350 without boring it out. I realize the 383 produces a lot more torque, but can this be accomplished on the basic 350 just be changing the gears, or what?

Monkie

Stick with the 350. When you bore an engine you get HP but also problems.

------------------
1992 Camaro RS 3.1L
T5 Manual 5 speed
Open Air Intake
Z-28 Exhaust

Apeiron

A 383 is a stroked and bored 350. Externally there is no difference. In addition to boring, you'd need a new crank and new rods and/or pistons. If your lower half is in decent shape, I'd say leave it alone and be happy with a 350. If you're already planning on rebuilding and replacing the rotating assembly, it shouldn't cost more than a few hundred more to make a 383.

------------------
1984 Silver Z28, 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flowmaster Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

Josh 91RS

If i were to stick with the 350, what are things that i should do to build a nice, fast, dependable engine from it before i put it in my car. The 350 i have is a 4bolt main out of a 84-85 chevy truck. Its got about 50,000 miles on it. I had a compression test ran on it and it was 165. I want to set this 350 up pretty nice, what are the things im going to want to put into it? Id rather pretty much rebuild it to know exactly what i have into this engine before i put it into my car.

Monkie

Some people may disagree with me but to keep things simple I would just SC it. Why not, with vortech they say you can get 130HP.

------------------
1992 Camaro RS 3.1L
T5 Manual 5 speed
Open Air Intake
Z-28 Exhaust

Josh 91RS

Ok, youre gonna kill me but.....im new to this and i am trying to learn as much as i can....so although im sure this sounds extremely dumb....what does SC mean?

Grim Reaper

SC means supercharge.

The reason people stroke a 350 to 383 (I don't consider the .030 overbore a main component) is to get extra cubic inches. The extra cubic inches translate into extra torque (and hp) throughout the power band.

There is no physical external differences (other than the externally balance crankshaft if you go that route) between a 350/383 or even a 305 for that matter. There is a cost to stroking your engine to 383 (crank, rotating assembly, machining, etc), but you will then have those extra 33 cubic inches. Given a potential of 1.2HP/cubic inch, that will translate into about 40 HP more than a comparable 350 can produce...modification for modification.

Monkie

I still say SC the 350

lock

Hmmm, Im still trying to figure out what "problems" he would get.

------------------
Mark Lock
- 86 IROC-Z - Torn down for 383/SuperRam T56 setup
- -= IROC Online =- - The site dedicated to the IROC-Z

Z myster

it doesn't really matter what you do. Either way you're going to have HP potential. You can get 600 Hp out of a 305, as long as you know what you're doing. You can get 700-750 out of a stroker, if built right.

Grim Reaper

A 600 HP 305 would not be very streetable ... in fact, neither would a 600 HP 383 for that matter ...

HP is nice, but if you have ever driven a "high strung" engine on the street, you'll realize why some it is not recommended... and not much fun either...

Lastly, all of your parts are going to have to be the "best" and expensive...forged crank, rods, and pistons... a very "extreme" cam that needs to idle at 2,000 rpm, a stall converter @ 5,500 rpm ... and the list goes on and on ...

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited October 31, 2000).]

Craig-'84-Z28

I am also strongly leaning toward the 383 build on my motor and am curious about how it would need to be built to achieve 700+ hp. I admit that I am not looking for that much power now but, I would like to know how to get there if I decide to later. Right now I am looking at either the Edelbrock performer or rpm matched set (cam, heads, intake, carb ect.) What would someone with more experience than me (this is my first build) recommend?? I don't want to replace all of my new parts just to increase power later on. Thanks!!

one more thing... can a car with 10:1 compression run on pump gas? I've heard conflicting reports on this one.


[This message has been edited by Craig-'84-Z28 (edited November 01, 2000).]