I will be putting in a new carbed 350 this weekend and would like some advise on breaking it in. Common sense and experience tells me:
1. 10w-30 oil for 2000 miles. Go easy and fluciate speeds.
2. 5w-30 synthetic after 2000 miles and have fun.

I have heard that you should rag on a new engine in order to make it break in properly. I am not convinced. Does anyone have input on this subject?

 

Go to the SDPC website under Tech Tips. They have a suggested break-in procedure that is pretty sound. You might want to wait a little longer for the first synthetic fill, but 2000 miles isn't a bad choice for a properly broken in, new factory engine if no problems have been noted by the Step 8 oil change. Of course, with a quality synthetic, 3000 mile oil changes are "old school".

I've heard the "break it in like you're going to drive it" school, but can't say I agree with it. Varying the speed is more important as things wear in, IMO.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car. Rescued w/86 LG4/TH700R with all harnesses, sensors, ECM, etc. 2.73 open. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LB9 w/ZZ3 cam, exhaust, paint, etc.).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. Currently 396 .030 over, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

Welp, i have laid this out before, but i will type it again for U

1- put in some cheap oil... nuthin too cheap, but stuff you wouldnt mind having in the motor for 45 minutes...

2- run the motor, for about 30-45 minutes with out any stress. at first keep the rpms low, then gradually increase till your at about 1000. keep it there for about 30 min.

3 let the motor cool, drain the oil, fill with the oil you gonna use for the first couple thousand miles.

4- run the motor again for about 20 minutes, let it cool completely.

5- after the motor has gone through its heat cycles, go out and drive for about 1500 miles , going easy the WHOLE time... no romping or high rpm stuff (i know its almost irresistable)

6- put in your synthetic, and drive away leaving two stripes all ya want

This is the prcedure we have used to break in the race motor in the race car. we have never scuffed a piston, had ring problems, or bearing problems. we do run tight tolerances on the main and rod bearing, which is why we run the motor at a high idle for so long. i suppose the second heat cycle before the out and about phase could be skipped. but you should do the oil change ofter the intial running. there is a lot of crap floating around in the oil system that never ever gets out completely.. Do this and for sure you wont have ANY problems.

Steve

------------------
86 Firebird, LG4, t-tops, 2.73 open rear, SLP 3 inch cat back exhaust, catco cat.

Gonna be sellin the 86 in the spring to hopefully get an 88-92 formula 350, and supercharge it!! (amoung some other sweet mods)

My Webpage- Battle of the birds, My own Thirdgen Page, still under construction, http://www.geocities.com/soares711/index.htm

88 Firebird Formula- deseased 2/9/99- 305 TPI, SLP 3 inch exhaust, SLP Intake runners, SLP cam, 3.45 BW disc brake posi, WS6, NOS, and all that good stuff, 13.8 on the motor, 12.89 on NOS and slicks! Hit by what else!?!? a FORD EXPLORER!!!!!!

 

fb305svs, your Step 2 should only be followed if you have a roller cam, or are using a cam that has already been run in. If you have a new flat-tappet cam, the RPM's should be taken up to around 2000-3000 very soon for it's intial run (per SDPC's Step #3 and similar recommendations from various cam manufacturers). Setting the timing is the only reason to keep it below that when it's 1st started.

The oil filter should also be changed in your Step 3.

 

Yeah keep your idle at 3000 RPM to break in your cam. And ID PERSONALLY change your oil after 100 miles and open up your oil filter..

and 1500 miles is a lot .. good luck waiting that long ! i know i didnt

 

put aprox 5 liters of oil in. pull distibitor out and pre lube the motor with a pump primer . make sure oil reaces all part of the motor by pulling valve cover s off to see that it reaces # 1 and 2 rocker arms. after motor is prelube, put distibutor back in. if you have a new cam start motor and rev to 2000 rpm for 20 minitus. do oil change(do not use synsetic) drive car lake and old lady for 1000 miles. ocasinaly it is fine to put in second gear and and punche for a few secs, leave it in second and let motor slow car down. this actualy helps motor brake in. what it does is make an rich mixture and wases the oil of the cylinder walls, when you let of oil lubes up the rings.this is the prcedur thet is explaned in and old issue of car craft. avoid exseive ideling and stedy rpm levels.do not take motor past 4500 rpm. after 1000 miles chage oil, reajust rockers, and as said earler leav to fat stripes of ruber and go out and kick some FORD A$$. hope this helps

------------------
when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops

350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast

[This message has been edited by GOLD85 (edited November 08, 2000).]

 

go with this last post... the only thing I do different is after the cam break in I change the oil... for the first twenty mins after getting the timing set (be quick) run the engine between 1800 and 2300 rpm not steady fluctuate a bit... don't use synthetic untill the second oil change first at 1000 second at 4000...

zroc

 

PS prime the filter...

zroc

 

I too second the priming the oil pump FIRST. Also, I have always used straight 30W during the initial break in. Lastly, I too would wait a bit longer to put synthetic in just to ensure the rings are nicely seated. I'd rather change my oil a few times extra with regular oil than going to synthetic too early. You cannot change your oil too much during the entire break-in period.

While driving during the break-in period, don't "stomp on it" or drive at a constant speed. It is best to put varying loads on the engine at moderate throttle.

 

fb305svs,
I thought when building a race engine you should go a little loose on the tolerances?
Thats what I have read.


------------------
92 RS
350
Street & Performance MPFI
TFS heads
Crane Rollers
MSD Digital 6 Plus
24lb injectors
ZZ3 cam
Edelbrock Headers 1 5/8
3" Exhaust
Hi Flow 3" Cat
stock T-5
stock rear 3.08
koni yellow adjustable front
twin turbo glass hood
T-tops
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Series 2 5/8 gauges
Color: Teal Green

 

how do you break in a engine for a drag car that'll never see 1000 miles for a long long time?

------------------
-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd

 

Break in the cam. Change oil and filter. Make a couple of part-throttle runs, a half-pass at full throttle, then a full pass, change oil and filter.

Then run, baby, run!

The big thing is breaking in the cam.