im thinking of putting this engine in my 89 bird
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...%202256%203779

will it fit, someone said something about it moving around a lot and it would tear the car to shreads, is he bs'in me, wut are ur suggestions wit dat engine

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Trent
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89 Firebird
305 v8
automatic
ttops

 

I can't understand "wut are ur suggestions wit dat engine" but let me be the first to tell you that this engine kicks ***. I don't know what intake system you plan on using but my TBI setup is really strong. With the g-tech piece I ran at 104mph with 400 extra lbs (me, 2 friends, and 3/4 tank) so I think 103/104 is about right. I couldn't hook worth a damn (darn peg leg) so the best ET was something like a 14.60, anyways, you won't be disapointed with this engine. You shouldn't "tear the car to shreads" as long as everything is in check. I replaced my motor mounts, and have a full suspension so I don't know what the engine would do if you didn't have a good condition body and mounts.

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, Jon (350 TBI!)
91 Red My website

 

buy what are your suggestings i mean would u think i could easily fit this engine in my car, i am new to the automoble world, if i put that engine in my car, what else would i ahve to replace to make it work,

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Trent
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89 Firebird
305 v8
automatic
ttops

 

This is certainly not a "bolt-in" for your car. It has a carb rather than fuel injection, so you'll need to modify your fuel system to lower the pressure and take it to a different point on the engine. It has a self-contained distributor rather than the computer controlled unit you now have. Your torque converter will need a seperate switch since the computer will no longer control it. Your current exhaust system is restrictive, so to get the most out of this engine, you should have headers, high-flow cat and cat-back. The water pump will need to be changed to the type currently on your engine. You'll be almost doubling your power, so you need to beef up your suspension (subframe connectors, poly bushings and the like). If you have to pass emissions, you could be in trouble.

It would be a big project that you'll likely need help with. But, if you get through it, you'll most likely enjoy the results.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.

 

Quit scaring the kid. Both engines are small block chevy. All small block chevy engines, be it 283, 305, 327, 350, 400, or a derivative of those engines, are bolt for bolt identical. Granted, your car now is most likely fuel injected and computer controlled, and you may have a restrictive exhaust, etc. etc. All of the components from your old engine will bolt on this new one. So have someone figure out what you need to swap from your old engine to the new one in order to keep your fuel injection, and it will be a lot less work in the long run, and help with efficiency. Then once you've got the overall swap plan, decide what you want to do with the engine out. For example -- new headers will greatly improve the performance of that new engine and will be much easier to replace with the engine out. Also, with your fuel injection needing to feed more engine so to speak, you may want to make a few upgrades in the system. I would recommend going with a GM Performance parts engine that isn't so complete since you'll want to reuse your fuel injection and ignition systems etc. Just buy a basic long block, and bolt your old stuff on it.

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1985 Trans Am - rough and ready -- 3" cat and primary exhaust, lowered 2", custom rust body work mild fender denting. Daily driver.
1976 Corvette Stingray - not so rough, but always ready. mild 350/th350 tranny. mostly stock till I whack the hood for the blower

 

"Scare"? A dose of reality is more like it.

I quote: "i am new to the automoble world". What you are doing, Eater, is planting false hope. Saying things like "all SBC's are bolt for bolt identical" is downright irresponsible, given the experience level (to say nothing about it not being true).

Trent, remember this: "There is no such thing as a bolt-in". Write it on a piece of paper and pull it out whenever someone tells you "It will bolt right in". For example: Your induction system won't bolt to crate engines because of different angles on the center two intake bolts. You need a special intake for Vortec heads, which the engine you mention has (it is the "Deluxe" version, which means it has an intake with it, but that opens up another can of worms, which I discuss above). Sensor hole sizes are often different. I say again, "emissions", an often overlooked factor in the swap equation.

I'm not trying to squash your dreams, just want you to understand what you're really looking at before you break out the plastic.

 

First of all, what you would have him do is take two big steps forward, and then 4 really big steps back. Sure he's going with the new engine, and even with the carb and eliminating the computer all together will make one heck of a lot more power. However, unless tuned extremely well, will also be lacking in efficiency. You'll notice that I suggested going with a GM Performance parts unit, rather than the engine that he's looking at. Go with an engine that will accept the current intake. Also, pre-1985 sbc engines are bolt for bolt identical with other pre-1985 sbc's, and the same goes for post-1985's. I never suggested that all heads, etc. are identical, but the block itself is. What you would have him do is wrong, and there's no point in making all of the extra work. Buy something (and consult with the seller before purchasing if necessary) that will accept the electronics, etc. of his old engine; thus eliminating the step back in switching to a carb. Also, if you want to talk emissions, do you think switching back to a carb and eliminating the computer control will suffice? no. :/


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1985 Trans Am - rough and ready -- 3" cat and primary exhaust, lowered 2", custom rust body work mild fender denting. Daily driver.
1976 Corvette Stingray - not so rough, but always ready. mild 350/th350 tranny. mostly stock till I whack the hood for the blower